fords4life Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 So....since I plan to pull the motor and do the full re-seal I am going to replace the timing set at the same time. I know very little about them so I'm looking for a little feedback. What I have found is I have a few options, single non-roller, link belt, or double roller. My concern with the double roller is that most look like there is a possibility of clearance issues. I don't want to deal with that at all. I also have stock motor with no plans to do anything to it and the double roller seems overkill. That leaves me with single non-roller and link belt. Out of those two, the link belt seems to be the better option. Thoughts? Cloye's Link-Belt Comp Cams High Energy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Link belt (Hy-Vo) type chains tend to be quieter, especially when run over nylon cam gears. I don't see ANY point in a non-roller chain. ...Now you have all the pressure and wear at one tiny point tangent to the pin. And (of course) they can't roll, to spread the wear around, while nearly eliminating friction. That said, I have had a double roller set installed since the plastic crap shredded itself and completely packed my sump pickup -sometime around 1990- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 So... My concern with the double roller is that most look like there is a possibility of clearance issues. I don't want to deal with that at all. I also have stock motor with no plans to do anything to it and the double roller seems overkill. Is it ever overkill to eliminate frictional losses and wear? When you have such limited power, why turn a bunch of it into heat and iron filings? Few people need an infinite indexing timing set in their pickup. Us 460 guys can just use the factory stock timing set from a later EFI engine and get a "straight up" double roller set for low cost. Even the basic DR Cloyes set is somewhere around $40 (I know this doesn't apply to you.....) Just make SURE that if you have a mechanical fuel pump, you have the right cam gear to drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 I agree with Jim - double roller. While it may seem overkill, they last longer than the other options. Do it once and do it right. And I don't think there are clearance issues. Any of them should fit just fine. As for the fuel pump, since you have EFI you should have an electric pump, so no worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 I agree with Jim - double roller. While it may seem overkill, they last longer than the other options. Do it once and do it right. And I don't think there are clearance issues. Any of them should fit just fine. As for the fuel pump, since you have EFI you should have an electric pump, so no worries. I will further endorse using a double roller chain setup, and I believe if you look at later OEM sets you will find Ford went to them on everything except the 4.9L (300) which has gear drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 As for the fuel pump, since you have EFI you should have an electric pump, so no worries. I mentioned it because those of us who do have a mechanical pump need the eccentric boss machined and a hole for the drive pin. You can get the wrong set, and you will be WAY in there when you figure it out. Damhik! Never let some counter 'associate' substitute numbers on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 As for the fuel pump, since you have EFI you should have an electric pump, so no worries. I mentioned it because those of us who do have a mechanical pump need the eccentric boss machined and a hole for the drive pin. You can get the wrong set, and you will be WAY in there when you figure it out. Damhik! Never let some counter 'associate' substitute numbers on you. I won't ask. I don't have to. Gotta be frustrating! But glad you mentioned it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 As for the fuel pump, since you have EFI you should have an electric pump, so no worries. I mentioned it because those of us who do have a mechanical pump need the eccentric boss machined and a hole for the drive pin. You can get the wrong set, and you will be WAY in there when you figure it out. Damhik! Never let some counter 'associate' substitute numbers on you. Definitely double roller, which was OE on later years....a mechanical pump need the eccentric boss machined and a hole for the drive pin.The 302ci fuel pump eccentric fits onto any 302/5.0 cam gear. Nothing is machined differently. The key fits into the gear's key hole. https://supermotors.net/getfile/309274/thumbnail/fuelpumpecc.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fords4life Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 Definitely double roller, which was OE on later years....a mechanical pump need the eccentric boss machined and a hole for the drive pin.The 302ci fuel pump eccentric fits onto any 302/5.0 cam gear. Nothing is machined differently. The key fits into the gear's key hole. https://supermotors.net/getfile/309274/thumbnail/fuelpumpecc.jpg I totally get the friction losses. The point that was shying me away from the double rollers was reading in multiple places where a lot of applications tend to machine the block for a thrust washer or torrington bearing. I will go double roller. Looks like the Cloyes Street True Roller has slightly bigger pins than the heavy duty set. Probably get this one ordered....Cloyes Street True Roller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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