Bruno2 Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 So you are building an engine on Saturday? Unfortunately I told a roofing contractor I do business with that I would paint a couple of chimneys for him because they are in a bind. So maybe Sunday... I have to tackle the rear main seal right out of the gate. You know the one I am probably making a bigger deal out of installing than it probably will be??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 Unfortunately I told a roofing contractor I do business with that I would paint a couple of chimneys for him because they are in a bind. So maybe Sunday... I have to tackle the rear main seal right out of the gate. You know the one I am probably making a bigger deal out of installing than it probably will be??? It sounds off-putting, but when you do it it isn't that big of a deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 It sounds off-putting, but when you do it it isn't that big of a deal. Going to try and get the rotating assembly put together today. Wish me luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Going to try and get the rotating assembly put together today. Wish me luck... Good luck! I'll check in later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 Good luck! I'll check in later. Well, I got started on the rotating assembly. I am pretty sure I got the rear main I was dreading installed correctly. (hoping) I had to call the garagemahal for tech support on making sure I was installing the thrust bearing correctly on the crank. I followed procedure on it. I feel like it went in right. I even checked the end play with my dial indicator. I was in tolerance so the thrust bearing didnt have to be worked. End play was right at 0.005". I torqued everything to 95 ftlbs and then went to 105 ftlbs. I was impressed with what I had accomplished. Suddenly I realized that I had not installed the camshaft yet... I grabbed a couple of pieces of 18 ga tie wire , looped them under where the cam will slide, bent a flux brush just right so I could paint the cam bearings with Comp's break in lube and went to work. I got the cam in with no issues so that was a relief. Comp is a little stingy with their break in lube for the flat tappet camshafts. I think there is enough left after painting the cam to do the lifters. I did put the lifters in a bucket of Rotella for a nice soak. Then I started the piston connecting rod installation. I was at a loss on the ring installation so I had to call tech support to find outwhat order they went in:nabble_anim_confused:. Jegs filled the bill on that one.Federal Mogul should hire somebody to write installation directions for them. Whoever is doing it now needs to be fired! So I began installing them and found out my Chinese ring compressor is a piece of junk. However, on a lighter note my Chinese ring installation tool was a piece of junk as well . They both seem to hate the really thin rings that sandwich the oil ring. I was installing the third piston when I realized that I was paying no attention to how the rings were orientated. Needless to say the third piston was installed correctly and the first and second had to come back out:nabble_smiley_blush:. The top ring had no marking to indicate direction, but did have a bevel that couldnt be seen with naked eye. I was even using my bifocals. I had to put the calipers to the very edge to discover the 0.005" difference to orientate them correctly:nabble_smiley_cool:. I messed around and installed one with only half a bearing:nabble_smiley_tongue:. That was fun to try and get pushed back up just far enough to install the bearing half without pushing the rings back out of the hole. I managed to do it. 6 out of 8 were installed. I hope to get the other two in today and do the oil pump and sump. Maybe I can get the pan on too. The scavenger hunt is about to begin for the other parts and fasteners. I will probably get to use my CDI 3/8" torque wrench today. The 1/2" has been working like a champ. I have a bolt in the vice that I am using to warm them up before torquing. Wish me luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Well, I got started on the rotating assembly. I am pretty sure I got the rear main I was dreading installed correctly. (hoping) I had to call the garagemahal for tech support on making sure I was installing the thrust bearing correctly on the crank. I followed procedure on it. I feel like it went in right. I even checked the end play with my dial indicator. I was in tolerance so the thrust bearing didnt have to be worked. End play was right at 0.005". I torqued everything to 95 ftlbs and then went to 105 ftlbs. I was impressed with what I had accomplished. Suddenly I realized that I had not installed the camshaft yet... I grabbed a couple of pieces of 18 ga tie wire , looped them under where the cam will slide, bent a flux brush just right so I could paint the cam bearings with Comp's break in lube and went to work. I got the cam in with no issues so that was a relief. Comp is a little stingy with their break in lube for the flat tappet camshafts. I think there is enough left after painting the cam to do the lifters. I did put the lifters in a bucket of Rotella for a nice soak. Then I started the piston connecting rod installation. I was at a loss on the ring installation so I had to call tech support to find outwhat order they went in:nabble_anim_confused:. Jegs filled the bill on that one.Federal Mogul should hire somebody to write installation directions for them. Whoever is doing it now needs to be fired! So I began installing them and found out my Chinese ring compressor is a piece of junk. However, on a lighter note my Chinese ring installation tool was a piece of junk as well . They both seem to hate the really thin rings that sandwich the oil ring. I was installing the third piston when I realized that I was paying no attention to how the rings were orientated. Needless to say the third piston was installed correctly and the first and second had to come back out:nabble_smiley_blush:. The top ring had no marking to indicate direction, but did have a bevel that couldnt be seen with naked eye. I was even using my bifocals. I had to put the calipers to the very edge to discover the 0.005" difference to orientate them correctly:nabble_smiley_cool:. I messed around and installed one with only half a bearing:nabble_smiley_tongue:. That was fun to try and get pushed back up just far enough to install the bearing half without pushing the rings back out of the hole. I managed to do it. 6 out of 8 were installed. I hope to get the other two in today and do the oil pump and sump. Maybe I can get the pan on too. The scavenger hunt is about to begin for the other parts and fasteners. I will probably get to use my CDI 3/8" torque wrench today. The 1/2" has been working like a champ. I have a bolt in the vice that I am using to warm them up before torquing. Wish me luck!! You made a lot more progress than I thought you would. Won't be long until you are ready to install it. I think you'll really enjoy that engine. GOOD LUCK!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 You made a lot more progress than I thought you would. Won't be long until you are ready to install it. I think you'll really enjoy that engine. GOOD LUCK!!!! I got the rest of the pistons installed. I did the timing set most of the way. The timing set went down swinging. It was harder than Chinese Arithmetic to get everything lined up and sliding. I dont have the freeze plug in the back of the motor yet so I had a free range camshaft to deal with as well. Finally Hell froze over and it went together right... I was a little stumped on the fuel pump eccentric:nabble_anim_confused:. It did not have a round hole for the cam pin. Instead it has a square hole with a tab bent back to key it in the pinhole. Seems like it could move when in operation. The back piece of the eccentric is still puzzling me a little. It slides back and forth as well as spins. I sent Gary a video and he thought it was normal. The book recommended a dab of loctite on the cam bolt. So I havent loctited and torqued it because I need to know it is right before. I scavenged through my bags of bolts , but couldnt find anything tagged "oil pump" or "pick up tube" bolts:nabble_smiley_thinking:. The book says the oil pump bolts are 3/8'-16 TPI X 1-1/4" long with lock washers. Lo and behold right on the work bench was a pair of bolts matching the description. I put the new Melling pump on with the gasket and torqued it. I didnt put the oil pump drive shaft on because I couldnt find a new one in the shop. The book strongly advised not reusing the old one. I went along with it and just ordered a new Melling one. I am assuming I can get it in w/o pulling the pump. I think I am going to run by the machine shop and see if they will hot tank my pick up tube for me. I only need one, but I will shelf the other. I am seeing where a new screen can be ordered for these. This makes me think I can pull the old one to be sure nothing is in it before installing. Does anybody know how to remove the screen? Also, my machinist sent an oil defelctor or slinger with the motor?? He says it goes on the crank after the timing gear is on?? I have never seen one on a 351 W and I have dismantled a few. The hole in the middle is too smal to go over the crank so I am assuming this is not really for my motor as well as it doesnt need it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 I got the rest of the pistons installed. I did the timing set most of the way. The timing set went down swinging. It was harder than Chinese Arithmetic to get everything lined up and sliding. I dont have the freeze plug in the back of the motor yet so I had a free range camshaft to deal with as well. Finally Hell froze over and it went together right... I was a little stumped on the fuel pump eccentric:nabble_anim_confused:. It did not have a round hole for the cam pin. Instead it has a square hole with a tab bent back to key it in the pinhole. Seems like it could move when in operation. The back piece of the eccentric is still puzzling me a little. It slides back and forth as well as spins. I sent Gary a video and he thought it was normal. The book recommended a dab of loctite on the cam bolt. So I havent loctited and torqued it because I need to know it is right before. I scavenged through my bags of bolts , but couldnt find anything tagged "oil pump" or "pick up tube" bolts:nabble_smiley_thinking:. The book says the oil pump bolts are 3/8'-16 TPI X 1-1/4" long with lock washers. Lo and behold right on the work bench was a pair of bolts matching the description. I put the new Melling pump on with the gasket and torqued it. I didnt put the oil pump drive shaft on because I couldnt find a new one in the shop. The book strongly advised not reusing the old one. I went along with it and just ordered a new Melling one. I am assuming I can get it in w/o pulling the pump. I think I am going to run by the machine shop and see if they will hot tank my pick up tube for me. I only need one, but I will shelf the other. I am seeing where a new screen can be ordered for these. This makes me think I can pull the old one to be sure nothing is in it before installing. Does anybody know how to remove the screen? Also, my machinist sent an oil defelctor or slinger with the motor?? He says it goes on the crank after the timing gear is on?? I have never seen one on a 351 W and I have dismantled a few. The hole in the middle is too smal to go over the crank so I am assuming this is not really for my motor as well as it doesnt need it?? The oil pump drive normally has a keeper at the top so it doesn't come out with the distributor. Believe me, it can be a PITA to get back in if it does come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 The oil pump drive normally has a keeper at the top so it doesn't come out with the distributor. Believe me, it can be a PITA to get back in if it does come out. Here's Brandon's video. Y'all see what you think. And Bill's right, there's a keeper or clip part way up the oil pump drive that keeps it from coming out. Best to put it in from the bottom. As for the oil slinger, the illustration I have here (Engines/Windsor Series) does show a slinger as "6310". However, the catalog doesn't have a part number for one for a 351W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Here's Brandon's video. Y'all see what you think. And Bill's right, there's a keeper or clip part way up the oil pump drive that keeps it from coming out. Best to put it in from the bottom. As for the oil slinger, the illustration I have here (Engines/Windsor Series) does show a slinger as "6310". However, the catalog doesn't have a part number for one for a 351W. I don't need to watch the video, Gary, unless M engines are way different from other Fords, what strikes you as looking strange about the cam gear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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