Bruno2 Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 Well, you can see from the link that those heads are setup for rollers (and high rpm given the spring pressure) I would think 185-215 at whatever lift he is going to get with his cam and rocker ratio. Or on the low side if he is setting a low redline. Devcon is a metal filled epoxy. In his aluminum heads you'd use the aluminum version to reduce the port volume and keep velocity up. Typically filling the floor gives you a better approach angle at the back of the valve. But given that his ports are too high for the intake you would probably fill the top at the gasket and the floor of the port. Careful to keep the cross section near the same. Cylinder #4 represents the final flow numbers. Here are my cam specs: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=876&sb=2 So this cam doesnt create more than .500 lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Cylinder #4 represents the final flow numbers. Here are my cam specs: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=876&sb=2 So this cam doesnt create more than .500 lift. I'll ask the same question here as I did on Facebook and text - why is #4, which is after the bowl work, worse than #3 until you get to .4" of lift? Is there anything Eric can do to get it flowing better at low lift? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 I'll ask the same question here as I did on Facebook and text - why is #4, which is after the bowl work, worse than #3 until you get to .4" of lift? Is there anything Eric can do to get it flowing better at low lift? Turns out no . Not without spending more money on the head work. So I am going to live with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Turns out no . Not without spending more money on the head work. So I am going to live with it. Well... I got my block back from the second machinist. This guy Kent at K&S Engines turned it around in just a few days vs 3 years at the other place. All Kent was doing was decking the block. I was going with as close to "0" deck height as I could get. Kent said he measures with no rings on the piston and sets them up around 0.02"-0.03". So whenever the rings go on it should be REALLY close to "0". I put the block on the stand last night. I was by myself with no shop crane so it was a trick. I got it done safe and secure. I started chasing threads tonight. I think I got about 1/3 of them done. Another day and I should be ready to paint. Then a few days later I will begin the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Well... I got my block back from the second machinist. This guy Kent at K&S Engines turned it around in just a few days vs 3 years at the other place. All Kent was doing was decking the block. I was going with as close to "0" deck height as I could get. Kent said he measures with no rings on the piston and sets them up around 0.02"-0.03". So whenever the rings go on it should be REALLY close to "0". I put the block on the stand last night. I was by myself with no shop crane so it was a trick. I got it done safe and secure. I started chasing threads tonight. I think I got about 1/3 of them done. Another day and I should be ready to paint. Then a few days later I will begin the build. Cool! As I said elsewhere, make SURE you get it CLEAN. I like to use copious amounts of brake cleaner and wash the inside, as well as the outside, of the block really well. And then blow it dry, including all the passages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Well... I got my block back from the second machinist. This guy Kent at K&S Engines turned it around in just a few days vs 3 years at the other place. All Kent was doing was decking the block. I was going with as close to "0" deck height as I could get. Kent said he measures with no rings on the piston and sets them up around 0.02"-0.03". So whenever the rings go on it should be REALLY close to "0". I put the block on the stand last night. I was by myself with no shop crane so it was a trick. I got it done safe and secure. I started chasing threads tonight. I think I got about 1/3 of them done. Another day and I should be ready to paint. Then a few days later I will begin the build. Sweet! Glad you are getting some traction on this project... I feel you on the wait times, my machinist has had my block and heads for about a year and a half... just long enough for me to loose the cam bearings which is all that is left to do 🙄. I bet it feels great to have that thing on a stand 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 Sweet! Glad you are getting some traction on this project... I feel you on the wait times, my machinist has had my block and heads for about a year and a half... just long enough for me to loose the cam bearings which is all that is left to do 🙄. I bet it feels great to have that thing on a stand 👍 Alright, today I finished the thread chasing. I was a little surprised at how rough the main threads were. The machinist that decked the block set up the height by installing a couple of pistons. He apparently did'nt chase the threads before he did it because they were ROUGH. I hope that didnt effect the deck height measurement. I did all of the water pump holes, motor mounts, bell housing holes, ground stud holes, head bolt holes, cam thrust plate holes, oil pan holes, oil pump and even the distributor hold down. I don't believe i missed anything. If I did it was probably just here on the list and not on the actual block. I used my brake hone and honed all of the lifter bores as well. I very gently drug the mating surfaces of the main caps on some emery cloth like the SBF engine building book says to do. The next step is washing and cleaning the block. I plan to get a couple gallons of denatured alcohol and use my pump up sprayer. I will flush out and clean all of the oil journals. The first machinist asked my to bring the crank back in to be "washed" before I start the build. I will , but he needs to do it right then while I wait because I am not waiting another 3 yrs to build the rotating assembly:nabble_anim_crazy:. The next step is to paint the block a Ford gray color. And then... the building will begin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Alright, today I finished the thread chasing. I was a little surprised at how rough the main threads were. The machinist that decked the block set up the height by installing a couple of pistons. He apparently did'nt chase the threads before he did it because they were ROUGH. I hope that didnt effect the deck height measurement. I did all of the water pump holes, motor mounts, bell housing holes, ground stud holes, head bolt holes, cam thrust plate holes, oil pan holes, oil pump and even the distributor hold down. I don't believe i missed anything. If I did it was probably just here on the list and not on the actual block. I used my brake hone and honed all of the lifter bores as well. I very gently drug the mating surfaces of the main caps on some emery cloth like the SBF engine building book says to do. The next step is washing and cleaning the block. I plan to get a couple gallons of denatured alcohol and use my pump up sprayer. I will flush out and clean all of the oil journals. The first machinist asked my to bring the crank back in to be "washed" before I start the build. I will , but he needs to do it right then while I wait because I am not waiting another 3 yrs to build the rotating assembly:nabble_anim_crazy:. The next step is to paint the block a Ford gray color. And then... the building will begin. Ford gray????? Yeah, that may be "factory", but..... Anyway, you are making good progress. Glad to see it, as that's been a long time coming. Oh yes, on the cleaning bit, use your compressed air to blow out every single hole - but wear eye protection! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Ford gray????? Yeah, that may be "factory", but..... And what about it???? Maybe I should paint the 450 block blue? But I think it would look out of place in my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 Ford gray????? Yeah, that may be "factory", but..... And what about it???? Maybe I should paint the 450 block blue? But I think it would look out of place in my truck. Gray just seems ..... bland. I realize it is "correct", but it doesn't do much for me. I think Big Blue's block is black, and I'll probably paint or powder coat the pan black as well. But, to each his own. It'll run the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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