The Camano Experience

[Gary Lewis]

Hey Gary. I am torn between these and the Ford block you used. Both have pros that are appealing.

Connector Concepts Inc. They were very pleasant to work with so would recommend.

I've also purchased from Waytek Wire and really like their selection but haven't worked with anyone there on a personal level. I'll update that Resources thread with mention of both of them as options for those interested.

You and I have talked about this and I'll purposefully keep it vague for now but an uncommitted relay comes in handy for security purposes :). So having that but still having it contained in the box is nice.

A scenario that's a non-issue with your Ford box (definite pro there).

Yep, I understand exactly what you are saying. And I plan to incorporate that feature as well when I install a security system.

Another advantage of the style of Ford box I used is the megafuse, which simplifies the 3G conversion. But not all of those boxes have that, so you have to pick and choose at the salvage.

[kramttocs]

Yep, I understand exactly what you are saying. And I plan to incorporate that feature as well when I install a security system.

Another advantage of the style of Ford box I used is the megafuse, which simplifies the 3G conversion. But not all of those boxes have that, so you have to pick and choose at the salvage.

You are absolutely right about the megafuse. That is a good consolidation feature for those that have it.

Did a little wiring on the truck last night.

I want to run half of the new box's relays off the main battery for flexibility just like I have the other box split in half between batteries. Since I already had a 1/0 cable from the main battery going to the Smart Isolator near the brake booster, made sense to use it instead of running another one since the odds of overloading that cable are slim.

The problem was that with the magnalug on the 1/0 there wasn't any room on the isolator's stud to add the 2awg terminal that would go to the ssVEC. There was barely enough room for the 1/0 terminal and still have threads leftover.

Ordered a solenoid stud repair post that is basically a standoff. Screwed this on in place of the nut, installed the 2awg terminal and then installed the nut. Didn't show the last two steps since the terminal cover hides them.

This part number was AB-506D. This is for the fine thread but they also have a coarse thread offering. These are marketed for tractor applications.

Another edge case not really worth mentioning I know but I may run into this again in a year and need the number

 

[Gary Lewis]

You are absolutely right about the megafuse. That is a good consolidation feature for those that have it.

Did a little wiring on the truck last night.

I want to run half of the new box's relays off the main battery for flexibility just like I have the other box split in half between batteries. Since I already had a 1/0 cable from the main battery going to the Smart Isolator near the brake booster, made sense to use it instead of running another one since the odds of overloading that cable are slim.

The problem was that with the magnalug on the 1/0 there wasn't any room on the isolator's stud to add the 2awg terminal that would go to the ssVEC. There was barely enough room for the 1/0 terminal and still have threads leftover.

Ordered a solenoid stud repair post that is basically a standoff. Screwed this on in place of the nut, installed the 2awg terminal and then installed the nut. Didn't show the last two steps since the terminal cover hides them.

This part number was AB-506D. This is for the fine thread but they also have a coarse thread offering. These are marketed for tractor applications.

Another edge case not really worth mentioning I know but I may run into this again in a year and need the number

Looks great, Scott. But where did you get those boots? I badly need some for Big Blue as it is only a matter of time before a drop a tool on there. In fact, I'm thinking about creating a clear plexiglass cover for the smart isolator.

Anyway, I like those studs. And, I fully understand capturing part numbers in your thread. Not only does it help others, but you can go back and find them.

[kramttocs]

Looks great, Scott. But where did you get those boots? I badly need some for Big Blue as it is only a matter of time before a drop a tool on there. In fact, I'm thinking about creating a clear plexiglass cover for the smart isolator.

Anyway, I like those studs. And, I fully understand capturing part numbers in your thread. Not only does it help others, but you can go back and find them.

The different boots I've bought for the starter, alternator, and isolator were from Zoro and Amazon.

Amazon had the Fastronix 5/16" - 1/4" Stud Terminal Covers

I bought most of my magnalug stuff from Zoro and those covers were:

Terminal Protector, Plug-In, PVC, Red, PK5

Terminal Protector, Red, 4 Ga Stud, PK5

Terminal Protector, Battery 1-2 Ga, PK5

I am not positive I used some from all of them though.

I agree - those terminals are just right there waiting for something to happen. I like the shield idea. One thing that surprised me was how warm that thing gets when engaged. It makes sense but wasn't expecting it the first time.

[Gary Lewis]

The different boots I've bought for the starter, alternator, and isolator were from Zoro and Amazon.

Amazon had the Fastronix 5/16" - 1/4" Stud Terminal Covers

I bought most of my magnalug stuff from Zoro and those covers were:

Terminal Protector, Plug-In, PVC, Red, PK5

Terminal Protector, Red, 4 Ga Stud, PK5

Terminal Protector, Battery 1-2 Ga, PK5

I am not positive I used some from all of them though.

I agree - those terminals are just right there waiting for something to happen. I like the shield idea. One thing that surprised me was how warm that thing gets when engaged. It makes sense but wasn't expecting it the first time.

Thanks. I really need to spend some time cleaning my installations up with boots and covers - before I have an accident.

And yes, that Smart Isolator runs warm. Surprised me as well.

Hmmmm, what about printing a guard for it? Could it press onto the little studs in front and stay?

[kramttocs]

Thanks. I really need to spend some time cleaning my installations up with boots and covers - before I have an accident.

And yes, that Smart Isolator runs warm. Surprised me as well.

Hmmmm, what about printing a guard for it? Could it press onto the little studs in front and stay?

I really like the idea of printing a snap on guard for it. I don't see why it wouldn't work. Sadly I am having a bear of a time getting ABS to print without lifting. That may be a fun winter project.

[kramttocs]

I really like the idea of printing a snap on guard for it. I don't see why it wouldn't work. Sadly I am having a bear of a time getting ABS to print without lifting. That may be a fun winter project.

I took today and tomorrow off to get some stuff done around the house but ended up spending this morning at the JY since the weather was so nice. There was a new F250 and Bronco there since last time. The Bronco had some decent options so grabbed another tach cluster and clock.

The F250 though....it wasn't much to look at but had one little piece that made my day (doesn't take much I guess).

I've seen a few speed senders/signal generators as well as jy trucks that have the add-on speed control, but I've never seen a sender like this. The black end (threaded over male threads on the sender) slips directly onto the speedometer gauge. The other end, as seen in the photo, matches the speedometer gauge connection so the white clip on the speedometer cable latches to it. So this sender lives inside the dash vs in the engine bay or near the transmission/tcase.

The reason this is exciting is because of the GVOD and the number of wires I have going through the grommet (gutted EFI grommet) as well as the future wires I am planning to run through there. Right now that grommet is packed tight.

Currently there are two senders down at the overdrive for the GVOD and factory speed control, along with a coupler and short speedometer jumper to make up for the added overdrive length.

This will allow me to almost directly connect the new sender to the GVOD control box behind the dash, remove a cat6 sized wire from the grommet and clean up the cable down by the overdrive. That cat6 sized wire being removed will allow a handful of light gauge wires to be passed through there.

I installed it tonight, hooked up some test jumper wires and ran the drill on the speedometer cable to confirm the GVOD engaged at the correct speed - which it thankfully did.

If anyone has seen a sender like this and knows the part number, please share.

I don't blame you if you don't find this all that exciting

Other than that, I've been giving Chanute some much needed attention so will probably start a thread on it soon.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I took today and tomorrow off to get some stuff done around the house but ended up spending this morning at the JY since the weather was so nice. There was a new F250 and Bronco there since last time. The Bronco had some decent options so grabbed another tach cluster and clock.

The F250 though....it wasn't much to look at but had one little piece that made my day (doesn't take much I guess).

I've seen a few speed senders/signal generators as well as jy trucks that have the add-on speed control, but I've never seen a sender like this. The black end (threaded over male threads on the sender) slips directly onto the speedometer gauge. The other end, as seen in the photo, matches the speedometer gauge connection so the white clip on the speedometer cable latches to it. So this sender lives inside the dash vs in the engine bay or near the transmission/tcase.

The reason this is exciting is because of the GVOD and the number of wires I have going through the grommet (gutted EFI grommet) as well as the future wires I am planning to run through there. Right now that grommet is packed tight.

Currently there are two senders down at the overdrive for the GVOD and factory speed control, along with a coupler and short speedometer jumper to make up for the added overdrive length.

This will allow me to almost directly connect the new sender to the GVOD control box behind the dash, remove a cat6 sized wire from the grommet and clean up the cable down by the overdrive. That cat6 sized wire being removed will allow a handful of light gauge wires to be passed through there.

I installed it tonight, hooked up some test jumper wires and ran the drill on the speedometer cable to confirm the GVOD engaged at the correct speed - which it thankfully did.

If anyone has seen a sender like this and knows the part number, please share.

I don't blame you if you don't find this all that exciting

Other than that, I've been giving Chanute some much needed attention so will probably start a thread on it soon.

I've never seen a sender like that. That's cool. Does it have a number on it? Maybe I can crossref.

As for Chanute, when Jim called the other day he asked about that truck but I said I've not seen anything about it lately. It needs some LUV!

[ArdWrknTrk]

I took today and tomorrow off to get some stuff done around the house but ended up spending this morning at the JY since the weather was so nice. There was a new F250 and Bronco there since last time. The Bronco had some decent options so grabbed another tach cluster and clock.

The F250 though....it wasn't much to look at but had one little piece that made my day (doesn't take much I guess).

I've seen a few speed senders/signal generators as well as jy trucks that have the add-on speed control, but I've never seen a sender like this. The black end (threaded over male threads on the sender) slips directly onto the speedometer gauge. The other end, as seen in the photo, matches the speedometer gauge connection so the white clip on the speedometer cable latches to it. So this sender lives inside the dash vs in the engine bay or near the transmission/tcase.

The reason this is exciting is because of the GVOD and the number of wires I have going through the grommet (gutted EFI grommet) as well as the future wires I am planning to run through there. Right now that grommet is packed tight.

Currently there are two senders down at the overdrive for the GVOD and factory speed control, along with a coupler and short speedometer jumper to make up for the added overdrive length.

This will allow me to almost directly connect the new sender to the GVOD control box behind the dash, remove a cat6 sized wire from the grommet and clean up the cable down by the overdrive. That cat6 sized wire being removed will allow a handful of light gauge wires to be passed through there.

I installed it tonight, hooked up some test jumper wires and ran the drill on the speedometer cable to confirm the GVOD engaged at the correct speed - which it thankfully did.

If anyone has seen a sender like this and knows the part number, please share.

I don't blame you if you don't find this all that exciting

Other than that, I've been giving Chanute some much needed attention so will probably start a thread on it soon.

That's really interesting Scott.

I've never seen anything like it either.

But I guess there's plenty of room behind the cluster for it to fit without kinking?

That extra length must make it a whole lot easier to reach behind and disconnect the cable!

[kramttocs]

That's really interesting Scott.

I've never seen anything like it either.

But I guess there's plenty of room behind the cluster for it to fit without kinking?

That extra length must make it a whole lot easier to reach behind and disconnect the cable!

Unfortunately the only thing I found on the sender was an ink stamping of Jun 93. Going to take a quick trip back to the jy in the morning so will see if the speed control brain has anything on it.

Jim - Surprisingly there is a decent amount of room back there so this doesn't make the bend much more than it was already.

Removed the original signal generator wire and wired up the new one - went from a 10' run to under 6". Then called speedometerscableusa with the specs of the new jumper so that should be shipped out Monday.