kramttocs Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 Scott - You do amazing work! It is so well done. Thanks Gary. It's been fun taking any mystery out of the parts and hopefully the photos will help someone someday. I had dropped the locking hood latch off at the locksmith the other day and they called me this morning saying they had made a key for it but couldn't get the tumbler out to rekey to my door. I think they just don't work with older stuff. This evening I took the tumbler out (key in and turned, paperclip in the hole pushing the spring loaded pin down and then rotate further). I don't really want a locking hood but rather want the chromed handle so not rekeying it is actually preferred. I removed all the wafers and then reinserted the tumbler. This allows the key to be removed even with it in the unlock position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 Thanks Gary. It's been fun taking any mystery out of the parts and hopefully the photos will help someone someday. I had dropped the locking hood latch off at the locksmith the other day and they called me this morning saying they had made a key for it but couldn't get the tumbler out to rekey to my door. I think they just don't work with older stuff. This evening I took the tumbler out (key in and turned, paperclip in the hole pushing the spring loaded pin down and then rotate further). I don't really want a locking hood but rather want the chromed handle so not rekeying it is actually preferred. I removed all the wafers and then reinserted the tumbler. This allows the key to be removed even with it in the unlock position. Should work nicely. But save the wafers. I've read that if you have the right combo of them you can re-key any of the tumblers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 Should work nicely. But save the wafers. I've read that if you have the right combo of them you can re-key any of the tumblers. So the door locks have the same wafers?While I don't care about the lock now, I might in the future so grabbing a few door locks might be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 So the door locks have the same wafers?While I don't care about the lock now, I might in the future so grabbing a few door locks might be good. Door and ignition cylinders have standard diameter pins. I sent one of my keying sets to Bill (lebaront2) so he could rekey some tumblers. Later trucks have the same keyway in the doors as the ignition. I wanted to do away with the oval key, so i bought a set of later door cylinders and rekeyed them to my ignition cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 Door and ignition cylinders have standard diameter pins. I sent one of my keying sets to Bill (lebaront2) so he could rekey some tumblers. Later trucks have the same keyway in the doors as the ignition. I wanted to do away with the oval key, so i bought a set of later door cylinders and rekeyed them to my ignition cylinder. So the door and ignition tumblers have pins and not wafers. My bad. But having a bunch of spare units would give extra pins. Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 So the door and ignition tumblers have pins and not wafers. My bad. But having a bunch of spare units would give extra pins. Right? Yes, it would. If you want to get real caveman you can put long pins in the ones you don't have and file them flush to the cylinder. Then clean everything out and deburr the pins you made fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 Yes, it would. If you want to get real caveman you can put long pins in the ones you don't have and file them flush to the cylinder. Then clean everything out and deburr the pins you made fit. I did some quick searching around and it looks like there are a few different kind of wafers for Ford (A-42-100, A-42-104, A-42-200). Any idea what the correct one for these would be? Also, are there any years where the door or ignition would be wafers? What about the glovebox locks on 80-86? Are those wafers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted December 8, 2019 Author Share Posted December 8, 2019 I did some quick searching around and it looks like there are a few different kind of wafers for Ford (A-42-100, A-42-104, A-42-200). Any idea what the correct one for these would be? Also, are there any years where the door or ignition would be wafers? What about the glovebox locks on 80-86? Are those wafers? NOS ignition switch arrived today so I got the steering column all wrapped up. Before: After: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted December 8, 2019 Author Share Posted December 8, 2019 NOS ignition switch arrived today so I got the steering column all wrapped up. Before: After: Spent the morning in the jy and pulled a few hvac controls. I am leaning towards using the faceplate from an earlier year as I like the dashes vs the wedges. There is a good thread on the differences from 2017 I believe. I am not looking to disable the circulation at the moment so keeping all the 86 innards and just needing to swap some of the vacuum lines for vent, max, and norm. Suggestions on the best/cleanest way to do this? Just cut and rejoin with a vacuum line adapter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 Spent the morning in the jy and pulled a few hvac controls. I am leaning towards using the faceplate from an earlier year as I like the dashes vs the wedges. There is a good thread on the differences from 2017 I believe. I am not looking to disable the circulation at the moment so keeping all the 86 innards and just needing to swap some of the vacuum lines for vent, max, and norm. Suggestions on the best/cleanest way to do this? Just cut and rejoin with a vacuum line adapter? First, that steering column is a work of art! (Did you adjust the new switch?) There is a good thread on the differences from 2017 I believe. I am not looking to disable the circulation at the moment so keeping all the 86 innards and just needing to swap some of the vacuum lines for vent, max, and norm. Suggestions on the best/cleanest way to do this? Just cut and rejoin with a vacuum line adapter? http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n45296/IMG_20191207_153758.jpg But I'm not sure I understand about the thread. Do you have a link? And, I know I don't understand about swapping the vacuum lines. But, I'll guess that you are using an earlier control in place of a later one. If I remember correctly, the vacuum lines themselves are the same, but the connector to the control is different. So I think you can swap the controls as long as you use the earlier vacuum connector and hoses. Or, has the three football games today lowered my already limited intelligence to a new low? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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