Interior lights driver door switch

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, both doors. It's an xlt lariat if that matters? Have you ever looked behind the kick panel to see if the the wire is back there?

Base trucks only got the switch on the driver's side. The passenger's switch was added in higher levels.

But I don't know if the wire is back there. Would make sense, but I don't know.

[kramttocs]

Yeah, both doors. It's an xlt lariat if that matters? Have you ever looked behind the kick panel to see if the the wire is back there?

Well, I'll be - just checked my other trucks and my 1980 Custom only has the drivers side (the passenger is empty aside for a po using it to route a speaker wire) and my 1985 Custom only has the driver side with the passenger side having a plug in it like yours.

[kramttocs]

Base trucks only got the switch on the driver's side. The passenger's switch was added in higher levels.

But I don't know if the wire is back there. Would make sense, but I don't know.

That would be kind of funny - if they have the full harness there but saved a $5 switch for a higher trim.

Edit: nevermind. My logic is flawed - a $5 switch from the Ford option list is $50 :)

[Steve83]

...better priced than bronco graveyard which has crazy high shipping fees.

I try to shop around for the best total price on each part, and then check what happens to the prices if I buy several parts from 1 supplier. Sometimes it's worth buying a few spares...

But I don't know if the wire is back there.

It's taped into the harness above the glove box latch, near the buzzer. It can usually be found blind, just by reaching up there & fumbling around. But it's inside a hard plastic harness tube that must be popped open to actually touch the wires. It's MUCH easier with the dash pad off.

...a $5 switch from the Ford option list is $50

There's actually a lot more stuff in the Light & Convenience Group than just that switch.

And your way of thinking is one; but another way (the way I assume Ford figured customers back then would think) is: remove as much cost as possible from a low-trim truck to get the "base" cost, and then offer individual options, or option packages for those who want more in a "simple pickup truck". Remember that the mindset & market back then were VERY different from today.

[Gary Lewis]

It's taped into the harness above the glove box latch, near the buzzer. It can usually be found blind, just by reaching up there & fumbling around. But it's inside a hard plastic harness tube that must be popped open to actually touch the wires. It's MUCH easier with the dash pad off.

Good to know, Steve. Thanks.

I'd always expected it to be there somewhere as it didn't make sense for Ford to have two different harnesses. But had never found out for sure.

[Steve83]

It's taped into the harness above the glove box latch, near the buzzer. It can usually be found blind, just by reaching up there & fumbling around. But it's inside a hard plastic harness tube that must be popped open to actually touch the wires. It's MUCH easier with the dash pad off.

Good to know, Steve. Thanks.

I'd always expected it to be there somewhere as it didn't make sense for Ford to have two different harnesses. But had never found out for sure.

https://www.f150forum.com/f13/can-you-identify-plug-452974/

[FuzzFace2]

https://www.f150forum.com/f13/can-you-identify-plug-452974/

Good information in here for when I go to put my truck together.

The over head light I am pretty sure will not work because of the wire going up to it and with the spray foam between the roof panels I cant pull a replacement.

So I was planning to add the under dash lights for some light.

Now on the right side switch I cant remember what truck had what, custom & XL.

I want to said the XL did have 2 switches but that was a few years ago when I pulled it apart.

So it is nice to know the right side door switch wiring maybe tucked up in the harness and I don't have the dash pad on yet.

Dave ----

[Steve83]

...with the spray foam between the roof panels I cant pull a replacement.

The foam can't go very far from the dome light hole, right? Just poke through it with a stiff wire (coat hanger, etc.) until you can get some more dome light wires through.

...I don't have the dash pad on yet.

Post pics of the harness above the glove box, maybe shot through the w/s, showing what you find.

[FuzzFace2]

...with the spray foam between the roof panels I cant pull a replacement.

The foam can't go very far from the dome light hole, right? Just poke through it with a stiff wire (coat hanger, etc.) until you can get some more dome light wires through.

...I don't have the dash pad on yet.

Post pics of the harness above the glove box, maybe shot through the w/s, showing what you find.

I sprayed it in there pretty good and used a rubber hose on the end of the straw that came with the can to make sure it would cover the whole inside.

I did this for 2 reasons, it insulate from the hot sun beating down on the roof and because someone walked on the roof I had to do body work to it and when sanding it would oil can so it made it stuff for sanding.

I will try and remember to get pictures of that area next time I am out in the garage,been to hot the last 2 days.

Dave ----

[delco1946]

Where did you buy a new one if I may ask?

LMC has them as well as replacement plug pigtails.

Installed my switch and now my headlights-on buzzer and dome light works although my map lights continue to not function. However on the electrical schematic I’m a little stumped as everything else in the circuit is getting power. Suggestions?

Also very little Of anything seems to be working on the other circuit related to the seatbelt buzzer. My emergency brake light doesn’t come on either. However my fasten seatbelt light does work

I will also add that I received and installed my hood to Cowl seal from bronco graveyard and it looked to be very high-quality although one of the screw holes wasn’t in the right position but otherwise I was very pleased thankfully considering that it was not the cheapest one available on the market.