My timing chain adventure begins..

[Rogue_Wulff]

Yes, and years ago Goerlich exhaust said the 1 7/8" tailpipe was "compatible" with my 1971 Colony Park 429 engines's exhaust. Funny the original was 2 1/4". Oh, you have to use a reducer to fit it to the muffler. Tell me how a pipe with an ID of 1 3/4" will flow as much as one with an ID of 2 1/8"? That is a cross sectional area of 5.5 square inches vs 6.68 square inches or only 82% of the area.

Yes, it is compatible, it will physically fit, flow enough at WOT, not! It was shortly after that I had a pair of dual exhausts installed.

Parts store terms, and the actual meaning:

Lifetime warrentty: for the life of the part

Limited lifetime warrenty: if it breaks in 2, both halves are yours to keep, no extra charge

Compatible: will (somewhat) fit into place, but will not *actually* do the job

[ArdWrknTrk]

If I am reading that correctly, the older master has a HIGHER displacement than the later version. Seems this would have the opposite result, in that the older master would cause the newer slave to have too much travel, not too little....

Paul,

I don't know where you're getting this.

Both say 7/8 x 1 5/8" stroke for 16ml displacement (13cc nominal)

If there was too much volume, the slave would hyper-extend, blow off the end and probably not go back in.

Fluid would be leaking, and the slave would never bleed, certainly.

I think the thicker base (if combined with the same slave itself) would bottom the release bearing against the pressure plate fingers before the bell met the block.

This might leave the clutch partially disengaged, at least once the friction disc bedded in.

But it wouldn't cause it to fail to disengage.

Ron measured the connector length.

It's really too bad he didn't measure the different slave for distance from contact face to mounting surface, when he noticed the bolt problem...

Bill, IDK HTH anyone would think a 429 could breathe through a 1 7/8 head pipe.

Area ratios for circles get pretty extreme. It's obvious for anyone who has ever done volume calcs for plumbing or hydraulics.

[reamer]

Paul,

I don't know where you're getting this.

Both say 7/8 x 1 5/8" stroke for 16ml displacement (13cc nominal)

If there was too much volume, the slave would hyper-extend, blow off the end and probably not go back in.

Fluid would be leaking, and the slave would never bleed, certainly.

I think the thicker base (if combined with the same slave itself) would bottom the release bearing against the pressure plate fingers before the bell met the block.

This might leave the clutch partially disengaged, at least once the friction disc bedded in.

But it wouldn't cause it to fail to disengage.

Ron measured the connector length.

It's really too bad he didn't measure the different slave for distance from contact face to mounting surface, when he noticed the bolt problem...

Bill, IDK HTH anyone would think a 429 could breathe through a 1 7/8 head pipe.

Area ratios for circles get pretty extreme. It's obvious for anyone who has ever done volume calcs for plumbing or hydraulics.

Wow Jim.

Now that you said it, That's where my other @3/4" of travel is getting consumed... in the body of the thicker slave!

Going wit a new clutch (why take the chance now) should I re surface the flywheel? No burn or skid marks on it...

[Steve83]

...other @3/4" of travel is getting consumed... in the body of the thicker slave!

If the slave base is too thick, the clutch will never engage - the slave will always be depressing the diaphragm. If that's NOT happening, the slave base thickness is NOT too much, and won't affect slave piston travel. The master always self-adjusts IF the pedal shaft lever is installed properly, and the master is allowed to fully-retract.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Wow Jim.

Now that you said it, That's where my other @3/4" of travel is getting consumed... in the body of the thicker slave!

Going wit a new clutch (why take the chance now) should I re surface the flywheel? No burn or skid marks on it...

If you put a straightedge across it and it is flat *and within spec for thickness, then just scuff it up with a sander to clear the glaze and give some 'tooth' to bed the friction.

It should be okay.

And, yes. I am trying to make the point Steve gets.

If the slave is too 'tall' the clutch will never fully engage.

Your one wheel peel seems to put that to rest.

[reamer]

If you put a straightedge across it and it is flat *and within spec for thickness, then just scuff it up with a sander to clear the glaze and give some 'tooth' to bed the friction.

It should be okay.

And, yes. I am trying to make the point Steve gets.

If the slave is too 'tall' the clutch will never fully engage.

Your one wheel peel seems to put that to rest.

Well, I took it all apart again Monday (10 plus hrs on my back on a creeper) Went with a new "2B" Old style slave and, Tada! Disengagement!

It shifts very well, only note I see is getting in reverse, won't click is as smoothly as before, buy I'll drive it a few days to let it settle in.

Still puzzled why the "3B" slave did not work.... well it doesn't matter now, it is moving under its own power.

Thank you all for the help:nabble_smiley_good:

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, I took it all apart again Monday (10 plus hrs on my back on a creeper) Went with a new "2B" Old style slave and, Tada! Disengagement!

It shifts very well, only note I see is getting in reverse, won't click is as smoothly as before, buy I'll drive it a few days to let it settle in.

Still puzzled why the "3B" slave did not work.... well it doesn't matter now, it is moving under its own power.

Thank you all for the help:nabble_smiley_good:

Ron, I'm glad the right slave did it for you!

Keep an eye on that failing to go fully into reverse.

It's a known wear problem, and can get progressively worse to where the tranny will keep popping out of gear (reverse)

If driving the truck for a few days to get the clutch action right doesn't clear it up.

As I said, it's a truck gearbox in a pickup.

It won't shift fast and it needs positive control on your end.

Don't start to think it will ever just slip in like butter.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I took it all apart again Monday (10 plus hrs on my back on a creeper) Went with a new "2B" Old style slave and, Tada! Disengagement!

It shifts very well, only note I see is getting in reverse, won't click is as smoothly as before, buy I'll drive it a few days to let it settle in.

Still puzzled why the "3B" slave did not work.... well it doesn't matter now, it is moving under its own power.

Thank you all for the help:nabble_smiley_good:

Congrat's!!

In my limited experience with hydraulic clutch linkages it takes a few miles of driving and bouncing to get all of the bubbles out of the system. So perhaps the shift into Reverse will get better with driving? (I almost said "Ride up with wear", but that's from Are You Being Served and few would know.)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Congrat's!!

In my limited experience with hydraulic clutch linkages it takes a few miles of driving and bouncing to get all of the bubbles out of the system. So perhaps the shift into Reverse will get better with driving? (I almost said "Ride up with wear", but that's from Are You Being Served and few would know.)

Now we just need Bill's concensus, and 'the elders have spoken' as Matthew would say..

[Gary Lewis]

Now we just need Bill's concensus, and 'the elders have spoken' as Matthew would say..

LOL! IIRC it was you two that told me I'd never get the hydraulic clutch on Big Blue bled w/o driving it. Boy were you right. But a few miles of driving did wonders.