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My timing chain adventure begins..


reamer

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The water pump can't create any pressure (except against a closed thermostat)

It's a circulator, and nothing more.

System pressure is created by coolant expansion as it heats up.

I hope you don't have a head gasket failing..

Put a gauge on it, or use a tester to put pressure on it for a half hour or so, before you pull the engine.

Duh!

I'm an idiot. :nabble_smiley_blush:

You already have a leak.

Nothing to see here, move along..

 

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Duh!

I'm an idiot. :nabble_smiley_blush:

You already have a leak.

Nothing to see here, move along..

The rear of this thing is gonna be "interesting"...…

Where is all the coolant coming from? Cant see a leak from the top, the ZF hides most of the block and it looks dry...

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The rear of this thing is gonna be "interesting"...…

Where is all the coolant coming from? Cant see a leak from the top, the ZF hides most of the block and it looks dry...

Run a leak-down test with the engine out. If there's a headgasket problem you'll lose air into the cooling passages or to another cylinder.

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Got that leak-down tester coming this week:nabble_smiley_good:

Lots easier to do the test with the engine on the stand. Biggest problem is in laying out the balancer every 90 degrees, and that's easy. I have a small tape measure with a flat tape so it is easier to wrap around the balancer. Divide the measurement by 4 and mark it.

Put the #1 piston on TDC on the compression stroke, remove the breaker bar from the crank, and put the air to the tester. If your balancer's marks are spot-on the crank shouldn't turn. But if it is off a bit it might, so you want that breaker bar out.

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Lots easier to do the test with the engine on the stand. Biggest problem is in laying out the balancer every 90 degrees, and that's easy. I have a small tape measure with a flat tape so it is easier to wrap around the balancer. Divide the measurement by 4 and mark it.

Put the #1 piston on TDC on the compression stroke, remove the breaker bar from the crank, and put the air to the tester. If your balancer's marks are spot-on the crank shouldn't turn. But if it is off a bit it might, so you want that breaker bar out.

I'm also getting one of the one-piece Felpro pan gaskets, really, no RTV? install dry?

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I'm also getting one of the one-piece Felpro pan gaskets, really, no RTV? install dry?

Ford says to use sealer anyway:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/724829/thumbnail/tsb9568oilpan50l.jpg

FelPro's printed instructions say dry, but their online video says to add sealer. I use Blue Hylomar at the corners, and E6000 at the TC joint.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/1053057/thumbnail/05gray14.jpg

But it's critical to shave the TC gasket before putting the pan on.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/1142305/thumbnail/20181017_162529.jpg

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I'm also getting one of the one-piece Felpro pan gaskets, really, no RTV? install dry?

I'm running the Fel-Pro Perma-Dry Plus 1pc pan gasket (and valve cover gaskets). I didn't personally install the pan gasket, so I don't know if they used at RTV or not, but it's still nice and dry under there. My truck is 100% drip free, and I love it...lol.

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