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My timing chain adventure begins..


reamer

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The strange issue on fuel pressure is sometimes I observe the pressure on the dial at, say 6 psi, and run the truck for a bit, and it would accelerate fine, plenty of power, yet the pressure gauge would read zero, ( but run fine as mentioned).

I'm lost. You observe the pressure on the dial at 6 but the pressure is zero? Are you saying at some times it is at 6 and runs fine and other times it is at 0 and runs fine? :nabble_anim_confused:

On the ignition, the tach is driven by the signal in the primary circuit of the coil. But if the secondary circuit goes bad then the plugs won't fire correctly but the tach will read smoothly. And I've seen coils that fail in the secondary when they get warm.

Dial reads 6 psi, and other times the needle points at 0, but runs/accelerates fine...

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Dial reads 6 psi, and other times the needle points at 0, but runs/accelerates fine...

Something's amiss - assuming "dial" and "needle" mean the same thing. It could be the gauge is bad. Or the regulator is bad. Or the fuel pump is bad. But something's wrong. And when you are chasing problems anything like this raises red flags.

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Dial reads 6 psi, and other times the needle points at 0, but runs/accelerates fine...

Something's amiss - assuming "dial" and "needle" mean the same thing. It could be the gauge is bad. Or the regulator is bad. Or the fuel pump is bad. But something's wrong. And when you are chasing problems anything like this raises red flags.

Sooo here we are, back at were I started...

Carb installed, report from them was "cleaned out idle circuit" that's it, Installed it and no difference. Step on it and Deep sound coming from carb, but the truck does not move any faster, no black smoke, but no get-up-and-go.... And it still stinks (strong odor)

It was running fine all spring and this is all new.

So right now, things I have done...

New timing chain (1 inch of slop in original one).

New fuel filter.

4 year old fuel pump, gas tank, pick up/sender.

Carb just returned from national carb.

New autolite plugs gap 0.043

new dizzy cap and rotor (today).

tried two duraspark modules.

tried two colis

Still falling flat on its face. this was all done with less that a quarter tank of gas, so to rule out a dry-rotted, or hole in pick up tube, tank is full now, and still no good.

2 things I have noticed, plug wires have more resistance that manual states, and checking firing order, (remember it idles smooth) the manual shows #1 plug and rotor position is at about the 2 o'clock position on Dizzy (351cid) .... my #1 position and rotor points to the 4 o'clock position.....

With # 1 plug out, the top of compression stroke (with cam and crank dots lined up) rotor is at 4 o'clock,

With #1 at 4 o'clock, the rest of the plug routing is correct per manual.

Does it really matter where #1 is as long as top of compression stroke is the #1 position?:nabble_anim_confused::nabble_smiley_angry:

 

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Sooo here we are, back at were I started...

Carb installed, report from them was "cleaned out idle circuit" that's it, Installed it and no difference. Step on it and Deep sound coming from carb, but the truck does not move any faster, no black smoke, but no get-up-and-go.... And it still stinks (strong odor)

It was running fine all spring and this is all new.

So right now, things I have done...

New timing chain (1 inch of slop in original one).

New fuel filter.

4 year old fuel pump, gas tank, pick up/sender.

Carb just returned from national carb.

New autolite plugs gap 0.043

new dizzy cap and rotor (today).

tried two duraspark modules.

tried two colis

Still falling flat on its face. this was all done with less that a quarter tank of gas, so to rule out a dry-rotted, or hole in pick up tube, tank is full now, and still no good.

2 things I have noticed, plug wires have more resistance that manual states, and checking firing order, (remember it idles smooth) the manual shows #1 plug and rotor position is at about the 2 o'clock position on Dizzy (351cid) .... my #1 position and rotor points to the 4 o'clock position.....

With # 1 plug out, the top of compression stroke (with cam and crank dots lined up) rotor is at 4 o'clock,

With #1 at 4 o'clock, the rest of the plug routing is correct per manual.

Does it really matter where #1 is as long as top of compression stroke is the #1 position?:nabble_anim_confused::nabble_smiley_angry:

No, not really.

I always put #1 at about 1:00 per all the diagrams.

But if you slipped the dizzy on and did not get it right (or account for the helix of the gear, as it drops) you can always move all the wires over one post clockwise to get within the adjustment before the advance or connector hit something.

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No, not really.

I always put #1 at about 1:00 per all the diagrams.

But if you slipped the dizzy on and did not get it right (or account for the helix of the gear, as it drops) you can always move all the wires over one post clockwise to get within the adjustment before the advance or connector hit something.

I would make sure the #1 piston is TDC, on the compression stroke, physically by feeling compression and with a pencil or something in the spark plug hole and per the TDC marker on the balancer. Then make sure it points at number 1 on the dizzy cap. If not I would reset the dizzy so it did.

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Sooo here we are, back at were I started...

Carb installed, report from them was "cleaned out idle circuit" that's it, Installed it and no difference. Step on it and Deep sound coming from carb, but the truck does not move any faster, no black smoke, but no get-up-and-go.... And it still stinks (strong odor)

It was running fine all spring and this is all new.

So right now, things I have done...

New timing chain (1 inch of slop in original one).

New fuel filter.

4 year old fuel pump, gas tank, pick up/sender.

Carb just returned from national carb.

New autolite plugs gap 0.043

new dizzy cap and rotor (today).

tried two duraspark modules.

tried two colis

Still falling flat on its face. this was all done with less that a quarter tank of gas, so to rule out a dry-rotted, or hole in pick up tube, tank is full now, and still no good.

2 things I have noticed, plug wires have more resistance that manual states, and checking firing order, (remember it idles smooth) the manual shows #1 plug and rotor position is at about the 2 o'clock position on Dizzy (351cid) .... my #1 position and rotor points to the 4 o'clock position.....

With # 1 plug out, the top of compression stroke (with cam and crank dots lined up) rotor is at 4 o'clock,

With #1 at 4 o'clock, the rest of the plug routing is correct per manual.

Does it really matter where #1 is as long as top of compression stroke is the #1 position?:nabble_anim_confused::nabble_smiley_angry:

Do you still have the catalytic converter installed? The stink makes me suspect you do. If you can get it loose, take the converter off and see how it runs without it. My so had a 1986 F150 302 EFI and his converter was completely stopped up, badly enough it would not stay in OD on the highway and had no power. Since he lives in WV and no emission inspections, a piece of 1/2" water pipe "fell" through it. Night and day difference!

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Do you still have the catalytic converter installed? The stink makes me suspect you do. If you can get it loose, take the converter off and see how it runs without it. My so had a 1986 F150 302 EFI and his converter was completely stopped up, badly enough it would not stay in OD on the highway and had no power. Since he lives in WV and no emission inspections, a piece of 1/2" water pipe "fell" through it. Night and day difference!

Bill, I think I suggested this on page one. :nabble_smiley_whistling:

Edit: of the OTHER thread...

I would definitely give a look for a clogged exhaust.

You have all the symptoms.

Just for giggles, unbolt the front of the muffler (or Cat if you have one)

and take it for a spin.

15" Hg is pointing at a clog too.

Stock should have 20+, and it takes a pretty healthy cam to put you at 15.

It's very difficult to follow, or diagnose, when a new thread is started every 20 minutes, for one ongoing problem, but that's the way Ron seems to like it, so I'll be right back...... :nabble_smiley_super:

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Bill, I think I suggested this on page one. :nabble_smiley_whistling:

Edit: of the OTHER thread...

I would definitely give a look for a clogged exhaust.

You have all the symptoms.

Just for giggles, unbolt the front of the muffler (or Cat if you have one)

and take it for a spin.

15" Hg is pointing at a clog too.

Stock should have 20+, and it takes a pretty healthy cam to put you at 15.

It's very difficult to follow, or diagnose, when a new thread is started every 20 minutes, for one ongoing problem, but that's the way Ron seems to like it, so I'll be right back...... :nabble_smiley_super:

Yep!

Here it is: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Hmmm-loss-of-power-won-t-hold-speed-td33697.html

There's also another thread about finding a vacuum leak in the speed control, when I mentioned that 15"Hg was way too low for a stock cam with a new timing set.

But we can disregard that diversion.

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Yep!

Here it is: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Hmmm-loss-of-power-won-t-hold-speed-td33697.html

There's also another thread about finding a vacuum leak in the speed control, when I mentioned that 15"Hg was way too low for a stock cam with a new timing set.

But we can disregard that diversion.

Since Ron likes to play "let's start a new thread, because I didn't get the answer I wanted" then I think I will just ignore his posts from here on.

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