My timing chain adventure begins..

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ohhhhh-Kayyyy…. That was a crap-load of work and it truly needed it with that much slop on the original chain,.....Buuuut there is no difference in driving performance:nabble_smiley_angry:

I do have vacuum to the dizzy advance module, but will check if it's working with a vac pump, Also, while running I covered the carb opening and it will stall, (no air getting in) then I also emptied a can of brake clean around the carb base and intake gaskets, with no revving of the idle.....

Also applied E-brake and let off the clutch in 1st gear and she stalled as required......

So, you've got no slop in the timing chain, fuel in the carb, 150# compression on all cylinders, and no vacuum leaks.

What do you get for a vacuum reading now?

You've been good about keeping the oil full and clean, so I'm assuming you didn't wipe the cam.

[reamer]

So, you've got no slop in the timing chain, fuel in the carb, 150# compression on all cylinders, and no vacuum leaks.

What do you get for a vacuum reading now?

You've been good about keeping the oil full and clean, so I'm assuming you didn't wipe the cam.

Vac is same as before @15 inches at 10 degrees, will increase to 18" @ 20 degrees BTDC.

Oil is changed every year, (seasonal truck with maybe 700mi/year), and have beed adding ZDDP at changes...

Eddy Carb was re-built and calibrated 3 years ago by National Carb in Florida, It has a lifetime warranty, Just called them, will be not problem to ship and rebuild again...

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Vac is same as before @15 inches at 10 degrees, will increase to 18" @ 20 degrees BTDC.

Oil is changed every year, (seasonal truck with maybe 700mi/year), and have beed adding ZDDP at changes...

Eddy Carb was re-built and calibrated 3 years ago by National Carb in Florida, It has a lifetime warranty, Just called them, will be not problem to ship and rebuild again...

Like I said before: with a stock cam set straight up and ignition timing at 10 or 12° (whatever it calls for) you should have 20" or more of vacuum.

I'm dumbfounded, but I'm not there looking for clues...

[Gary Lewis]

Like I said before: with a stock cam set straight up and ignition timing at 10 or 12° (whatever it calls for) you should have 20" or more of vacuum.

I'm dumbfounded, but I'm not there looking for clues...

Have you tried adjusting the carb's idle mix? It is remotely possible that with the retarded cam timing the mix needed to be different.

Then, if that doesn't help, do you have a piston stop? I'd check TDC to see if the damper is correct. If it likes to idle at 20 BTDC that is unusual to me.

But, if it likes to idle there try driving it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Have you tried adjusting the carb's idle mix? It is remotely possible that with the retarded cam timing the mix needed to be different.

Then, if that doesn't help, do you have a piston stop? I'd check TDC to see if the damper is correct. If it likes to idle at 20 BTDC that is unusual to me.

But, if it likes to idle there try driving it.

It's a new -keyed- damper.

There's no way it can be initial ignition timing.... still.

I still think the advance is fubar, if anything.

You only need compression, fuel and spark for it to run.

I don't understand the noise it's making, or why it won't pull in higher gears.

[reamer]

It's a new -keyed- damper.

There's no way it can be initial ignition timing.... still.

I still think the advance is fubar, if anything.

You only need compression, fuel and spark for it to run.

I don't understand the noise it's making, or why it won't pull in higher gears.

I Checked the stamped marks on the new damper and they relate to the marks on the old damper with the keyway cut together.

Standing by my first statement, Jasper would have been cleaner..

[ArdWrknTrk]

I Checked the stamped marks on the new damper and they relate to the marks on the old damper with the keyway cut together.

Standing by my first statement, Jasper would have been cleaner..

I ran a tank dry on the way home.

I think your fuel pump isn't up to snuff.

Or the in tank screen is clogged.

The carb is not getting the volume it needs.

i don't have a lot of objective observation to go with.

So just my opinion..... given what I've been able to telegraph.

[Gary Lewis]

I ran a tank dry on the way home.

I think your fuel pump isn't up to snuff.

Or the in tank screen is clogged.

The carb is not getting the volume it needs.

i don't have a lot of objective observation to go with.

So just my opinion..... given what I've been able to telegraph.

Ron - You did install the cam as directed, with the dots aligned?

Jim - You may have something. A pump delivering too little fuel can cause problems similar to this.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ron - You did install the cam as directed, with the dots aligned?

Jim - You may have something. A pump delivering too little fuel can cause problems similar to this.

Gary, i asked about volume, not pressure VERY early in the other thread.

Given the evidence inside the timing case I don't think this was a bad move.

Just not the answer to Ron's problem.

But because of his 'confidence' in the fuel delivery I didn't persue it.

Bill or I would have probably had our culprit within an hour if we were 'hands on'

[reamer]

Gary, i asked about volume, not pressure VERY early in the other thread.

Given the evidence inside the timing case I don't think this was a bad move.

Just not the answer to Ron's problem.

But because of his 'confidence' in the fuel delivery I didn't persue it.

Bill or I would have probably had our culprit within an hour if we were 'hands on'

Never touched the Cam, Just did the timing chain.

Cam dot to Crank Key/dot,

I held the carb very close to WOT with hood open and watched the new clear-plastic fuel filter 2" from the carb, it never lost any volume (gas almost to the top) the whole time it was at WOT. Held it WOT for over 30 seconds, Screamed fine.

But step on it with a load, and nothing hits the road, Got to be a carb thing, brand new Autolite plugs, black carbon on #1 plug today.