Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

[grumpin]

Oh, I almost forgot. After taking the measurements posted above I was going to take the passenger's side rear spring mount off so at least I'd get something done. But, after looking it over I realized it's going to be a bear to get to them with a cutoff wheel.

So I thought I'd use Steve/FoxFord33's recommendation to use an air chisel. But then I realized I don't have a chisel to go in my air hammer and took a trip to Tractor Supply and got these. Hopefully they'll make what looks to be a tough job lots easier.

Florida Man Jr.?

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Oh, I almost forgot. After taking the measurements posted above I was going to take the passenger's side rear spring mount off so at least I'd get something done. But, after looking it over I realized it's going to be a bear to get to them with a cutoff wheel.

So I thought I'd use Steve/FoxFord33's recommendation to use an air chisel. But then I realized I don't have a chisel to go in my air hammer and took a trip to Tractor Supply and got these. Hopefully they'll make what looks to be a tough job lots easier.

Hey!

Come on by with that thing when I get 'round to my spring shackles and beam pivots.

I can see that set coming in mighty handy peeling the bushing cups out of my cross member.

[Gary Lewis]

Hey!

Come on by with that thing when I get 'round to my spring shackles and beam pivots.

I can see that set coming in mighty handy peeling the bushing cups out of my cross member.

Yep, I hope I can cut the heads off rivets nicely now.

But, I do want to do the least damage possible on the brackets - someone might need them.

[Gary Lewis]

Hey!

Come on by with that thing when I get 'round to my spring shackles and beam pivots.

I can see that set coming in mighty handy peeling the bushing cups out of my cross member.

Bushing cups? Crossmember?

[VWThomason]

Bushing cups? Crossmember?

Anyone hesitating to buy this kit or getting scared off, don't run away now! I just bought this kit this past Thursday as well to convert my 2wd 1986 F350 to 4wd. I know that is not it's original intentions, but it is a far superior option than making your own. Unless you're an engineer or at least have the mindset of one AND have your own CAD system paired to a plasma table, along with many other factors; this is the way to go.

Some modifications may be needed, but this is worth every penny; especially if you factor is what your time is worth to design your own kit.

Once I get my kit and start on it I will start my own thread on what to do to use this kit on a 2wd, until then and after I'll be here.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bushing cups? Crossmember?

I -unfortunately- DO have a D44. 😞

Now that the final piece of my front suspension puzzle is in place, I need to get those pivot bushings out & back in.

I also need to pull and replace the sleeved rubber bushings in either end of the leaves.

So shop air, for an air chisel, and some nice new bits would be nice!

[Gary Lewis]

Anyone hesitating to buy this kit or getting scared off, don't run away now! I just bought this kit this past Thursday as well to convert my 2wd 1986 F350 to 4wd. I know that is not it's original intentions, but it is a far superior option than making your own. Unless you're an engineer or at least have the mindset of one AND have your own CAD system paired to a plasma table, along with many other factors; this is the way to go.

Some modifications may be needed, but this is worth every penny; especially if you factor is what your time is worth to design your own kit.

Once I get my kit and start on it I will start my own thread on what to do to use this kit on a 2wd, until then and after I'll be here.

VW - Welcome! Glad you joined us.

But not that many are following this thread, but they do follow the New Members postings, so how 'bout going there and introducing yourself?

Jim - I thought that's what you were implying. But in my experience replacing those bushings isn't that hard of a job. But the bushings in the springs can be - at least that's what I've read recently.

[Gary Lewis]

VW - Welcome! Glad you joined us.

But not that many are following this thread, but they do follow the New Members postings, so how 'bout going there and introducing yourself?

Jim - I thought that's what you were implying. But in my experience replacing those bushings isn't that hard of a job. But the bushings in the springs can be - at least that's what I've read recently.

Erik @ Sky answered "Good morning, Gary." He'd already read the latest post from Friday, and said he's going to have the flanges redesigned and a new one made and shipped to me. That'll take about 3 weeks before I get it.

In the meantime I'm taking the rivets out for the rear brackets. Then I'll get the Sky bracket ready to go on.

And I'll also order in the u-joints, wheel bearings, seals, etc so I can have the D60 ready when the springs are in. There's a remote chance I'll have the suspension under the front of it so I can roll it out on the 20th and get Dad's truck on the trailer to take to the show. If not, there's always next year.

[Gary Lewis]

Erik @ Sky answered "Good morning, Gary." He'd already read the latest post from Friday, and said he's going to have the flanges redesigned and a new one made and shipped to me. That'll take about 3 weeks before I get it.

In the meantime I'm taking the rivets out for the rear brackets. Then I'll get the Sky bracket ready to go on.

And I'll also order in the u-joints, wheel bearings, seals, etc so I can have the D60 ready when the springs are in. There's a remote chance I'll have the suspension under the front of it so I can roll it out on the 20th and get Dad's truck on the trailer to take to the show. If not, there's always next year.

Ok, after talking to Erik I got to work with the air chisel, drill, etc and got the passenger's side rear spring hanger off. Boy, that was WORK!, to quote Maynard G. But, it is off w/o damaging the frame nor it, so I'm happy.

To install the bracket the instructions say, with the bold emphasis being mine:

9. The holes that are in the frame are not perfect round 1/2” holes and the bolts will not fit through them. To install the Lo-Pro shackle hangers we first take a 1/2” drill bit or die grinder to the bottom two holes in the frame until they fit the 1/2” bolt. After the bolts fit through the frame, install the shackle hanger with the machined 1/2” bolt in forward hole and 1/2x1.5” bolt in rear hole. Suck up the bottom bolts (3/4 socket) tight and you will see most of the side holes are close but don’t line up perfect; generally, we take a die grinder to the holes to clearance them, install the rest of the bolts in the shackle hanger, and torque to spec.

I drilled the bottom holes 1/2" per the instructions, but couldn't figure out what the "machined bolt" is. And, having slipped the bracket in place and tightened the bottom bolts up I could see that the Sky bracket's holes were about 3/16" too high for the factory holes. In fact, in the pic above you can see where they'd hit if installed as per the instructions as I scribed the holes onto the frame.

So I called Erik for the second time today. Turns out the "machined bolt" has the hex trimmed to clear the spring bracket, as shown below. And, while I had him I asked if I can slip a piece of 3/16" stock between bracket and the bottom of the frame to space it down and line the holes up. Yep, so that's my plan.

Here's the shot from below showing the machined bolt on the left/front:

And, here's the bracket in place w/o the 3/16" spacer. You can see how the holes will line up better with the spacer installed.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, after talking to Erik I got to work with the air chisel, drill, etc and got the passenger's side rear spring hanger off. Boy, that was WORK!, to quote Maynard G. But, it is off w/o damaging the frame nor it, so I'm happy.

To install the bracket the instructions say, with the bold emphasis being mine:

9. The holes that are in the frame are not perfect round 1/2” holes and the bolts will not fit through them. To install the Lo-Pro shackle hangers we first take a 1/2” drill bit or die grinder to the bottom two holes in the frame until they fit the 1/2” bolt. After the bolts fit through the frame, install the shackle hanger with the machined 1/2” bolt in forward hole and 1/2x1.5” bolt in rear hole. Suck up the bottom bolts (3/4 socket) tight and you will see most of the side holes are close but don’t line up perfect; generally, we take a die grinder to the holes to clearance them, install the rest of the bolts in the shackle hanger, and torque to spec.

I drilled the bottom holes 1/2" per the instructions, but couldn't figure out what the "machined bolt" is. And, having slipped the bracket in place and tightened the bottom bolts up I could see that the Sky bracket's holes were about 3/16" too high for the factory holes. In fact, in the pic above you can see where they'd hit if installed as per the instructions as I scribed the holes onto the frame.

So I called Erik for the second time today. Turns out the "machined bolt" has the hex trimmed to clear the spring bracket, as shown below. And, while I had him I asked if I can slip a piece of 3/16" stock between bracket and the bottom of the frame to space it down and line the holes up. Yep, so that's my plan.

Here's the shot from below showing the machined bolt on the left/front:

And, here's the bracket in place w/o the 3/16" spacer. You can see how the holes will line up better with the spacer installed.

It seems like product development really has some work to do in order for that RSK to be close to right. *roll eyes

You and Bill both get to be guinea pigs this week!