Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

[VWThomason]

The D60 is in. But the engine, transmission, et al to be able to test it aren't, although we are getting close.

Do you have specific questions?

No specific questions. Just looking for it to be on all fours again. Last I saw you were still having issues with the locker etc.

[Gary Lewis]

No specific questions. Just looking for it to be on all fours again. Last I saw you were still having issues with the locker etc.

It is on all fours.

[VWThomason]

It is on all fours.

That's good to hear. My knee is almost strong enough for me to get back out in the shop and get mine done too. So much to do before summer. At least it's starting to warm up too.

[salans7]

That's good to hear. My knee is almost strong enough for me to get back out in the shop and get mine done too. So much to do before summer. At least it's starting to warm up too.

I finished the RSK on my truck (4x2) as well, although I need to go back and finalize the inner frame boxes. We're ready to see your truck on all four wheels as well!

[VWThomason]

That's good to hear. My knee is almost strong enough for me to get back out in the shop and get mine done too. So much to do before summer. At least it's starting to warm up too.

I finished the RSK on my truck (4x2) as well, although I need to go back and finalize the inner frame boxes. We're ready to see your truck on all four wheels as well!

Did you use the sky rsk as well? What amount of lift and spring combo did you choose? I'm really hoping mine doesnt sit that high with the lowest and U code springs.

[salans7]

Did you use the sky rsk as well? What amount of lift and spring combo did you choose? I'm really hoping mine doesnt sit that high with the lowest and U code springs.

Yes, it's the SKY 80-91 SD kit. I'm running the Lo-Pro shackles, so the RSK gave me 2" of lift, and then I'm running what are listed as 2" lift springs from ProComp, but I feel they're closer to three. However the truck has no drivetrain as of right now, so it will probably settle down once all that is installed. If you're running U-code springs, you'll be closer to where Gary's truck will sit.

[VWThomason]

Did you use the sky rsk as well? What amount of lift and spring combo did you choose? I'm really hoping mine doesnt sit that high with the lowest and U code springs.

Yes, it's the SKY 80-91 SD kit. I'm running the Lo-Pro shackles, so the RSK gave me 2" of lift, and then I'm running what are listed as 2" lift springs from ProComp, but I feel they're closer to three. However the truck has no drivetrain as of right now, so it will probably settle down once all that is installed. If you're running U-code springs, you'll be closer to where Gary's truck will sit.

Well that's a sigh of relief. I've already got one big truck and even though I like it, I was planning on this one to be more family friendly, but still have a good stance on 35s. Just need to get out on the shop and do it!

[Gary Lewis]

Well that's a sigh of relief. I've already got one big truck and even though I like it, I was planning on this one to be more family friendly, but still have a good stance on 35s. Just need to get out on the shop and do it!

Right now with the U-codes and just the engine and tranny the front sits 2" higher than the rear. I'm hoping the t-case, front driveshaft, two large batteries, radiator & coolant, winch bumper and winch, etc level the truck out.

[VWThomason]

Right now with the U-codes and just the engine and tranny the front sits 2" higher than the rear. I'm hoping the t-case, front driveshaft, two large batteries, radiator & coolant, winch bumper and winch, etc level the truck out.

My engine is just slightly heavier than yours and I'll have turbo and intercooler additionally so we'll see. I'm also doing the 08 rear springs too, so it should all be juuuussssst right for how I want it to sit, hopefully with no block in the rear.

[Meehawl]

Ok, end-of-day report: four of the six rivets are out of the driver's side rear spring hanger bracket. And, I've found a new procedure:

 

1. Use a grinder to make a small flat on top of the rivet so you can start the drill bit centered up.

 

Drill the rivet with a 3/16" bit - chosen because it is big enough not to break easily and small enough that it bites pretty well. The hole should not go all the way through, but it does need to go past the 2nd layer so it releases pressure on the sides.

 

Drill the hole out to 3/8" the depth of the first hole.

 

Knock the head off the rivet on the side you started drilling from, using the air chisel. It'll go much faster on a hollow rivet than a solid one.

 

Knock the rest of the rivet out with a punch and sledge

 

 

With that new approach I got those four rivets out in 45 minutes where yesterday it took easily four hours to do six of them. And part of the 45 minutes was developing the technique. For instance, I learned that drilling all the way through doesn't leave you a solid surface against which to place the punch. But, not drilling past the second layer will have you hammering for a long time - and then start drilling again. Don't ask.

 

Oh, and Erik sent me a note saying the 1 1/2" difference between the stock bracket and the lo-pro is correct.

While working in one of the most miserable heavy vehicle workshops in the first world, in Queensland Australia, my only good memory was managing to change the way they de-riveted truck chassis’ when making large scale alterations. They would employ a large wedge shaped cold chisel, ensconced in a purpose built long handle made of 10mm/3/8" mild steel round bar wound around it. One unfortunate soul would align it on the rivet, while the more unfortunate fellow would swing Oceania’s largest sledge hammer at it with uninhibited violence. It was insanely loud and extraordinarily laborious. When they roped me in to have my turn at doing a God of Thunder impersonation on the end of the big persuader, I made my thoughts known regarding the exploitation of modern tool technology and was given the response…. “This is how it’s done mate, just get on with it" ……So, during the second chassis, on the second day, the rest of the workshop had had enough of the Dollar-Tree version of Thor and his high decibel art and were coming around to my idea. My idea being, huge Hilti demo hammer, with a 40mm/1,1/2" spade bit, with one guy holding the shaft of the spade bit to direct it on to the rivet, while wearing thick welding gloves, with the other guy holding up & directing the technology rich end of the operation. The removal of rivets is done with an instant violence that stretches the rivet enough while ripping the head off, that its diameter reduces and punching it out is a gentle stroll in comparison to what it was before. An entire chassis done in around 30-35mins, with no noticeable impact damage anywhere, as opposed to a shift and a quarter, with unintentional impact based graffiti randomly appearing before. They didn’t even need to buy the Hilti as you need only rent one when a chassis rework was undertaken. Less noise, less hassle and the undeniable proof that judicious & uncompromising violence is occasionally the perfect answer.