Bruce moose4x4 Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Yes, I'm thinking about an extension. But I was kind of thinking about those that might not have a machine shop with which to make the extensions. My thinking is that I'll take a piece of rod the same diameter as the stop on the end of the link against which the rubber bushing goes. I'll center-drill and tap it on the lathe to screw onto the link on one end and take a piece of all-thread on the other. Screw the extension on the link and screw the all-thread into the other end, both with Loctite. Basically, it just screws on and extends the sway bar link. On mine I just found a piece of tubing that fit over the rod and extended my links that way. Also I am confused as to why they started using a pan-hard bar. All the early dana 60's did not use them? My 1978 doesn't have one. Just two leaf springs hold it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 On mine I just found a piece of tubing that fit over the rod and extended my links that way. Also I am confused as to why they started using a pan-hard bar. All the early dana 60's did not use them? My 1978 doesn't have one. Just two leaf springs hold it in place. A piece of thick-walled tubing would work. It would have to be pretty strong tubing, but if it had the right ID to be tapped to then screw onto the original end link it would be easier than starting with a rod. As for the panhard rod, I don't know when they started using them. But my reading says that w/o a track bar the frame/body moves when you try to turn, not the tires & axle. And, it is possible to get into a death wobble. But that's just what I read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 A piece of thick-walled tubing would work. It would have to be pretty strong tubing, but if it had the right ID to be tapped to then screw onto the original end link it would be easier than starting with a rod. As for the panhard rod, I don't know when they started using them. But my reading says that w/o a track bar the frame/body moves when you try to turn, not the tires & axle. And, it is possible to get into a death wobble. But that's just what I read. Well, the next question becomes which Pitman arm to use. The one on Big Blue is shown on the top and the one from the '95 F350 is the bottom one: 85/ F250 - - 4/W/D 4600 lb. front axle "From 1/85" E5TZ 3590-C (marked E5TA 3590-BA) 5 1/8" long c/c w/1.4" drop 85/ F350 - - 4/W/D "From 2/85" E5TZ 3590-A (marked E5TA 3590-CA) 6" long c/c w/.7" drop So I called Sky and they said for sure to use the F350 one as it gives a better turning radius due to the length. And with no extra lift on the truck the drop difference won't matter. Then, as I was about to tackle removing the Pitman arm the spring u-bolts came in from Sky. So I diverted to installing them. Here's sort of a before and after. Which do you like best? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 Well, the next question becomes which Pitman arm to use. The one on Big Blue is shown on the top and the one from the '95 F350 is the bottom one: 85/ F250 - - 4/W/D 4600 lb. front axle "From 1/85" E5TZ 3590-C (marked E5TA 3590-BA) 5 1/8" long c/c w/1.4" drop 85/ F350 - - 4/W/D "From 2/85" E5TZ 3590-A (marked E5TA 3590-CA) 6" long c/c w/.7" drop So I called Sky and they said for sure to use the F350 one as it gives a better turning radius due to the length. And with no extra lift on the truck the drop difference won't matter. Then, as I was about to tackle removing the Pitman arm the spring u-bolts came in from Sky. So I diverted to installing them. Here's sort of a before and after. Which do you like best? Oh yes, I also pulled the F250 Pitman arm, installed the F350's, and torqued the nut to 200 ft-lbs. Somehow I think that much torque used to be easier to generate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Oh yes, I also pulled the F250 Pitman arm, installed the F350's, and torqued the nut to 200 ft-lbs. Somehow I think that much torque used to be easier to generate. ...depends on how long your cheater bar is... You do realize there are such things as torque multiplying wrenches and ratchets, don't you? 1200 foot pounds is easy to generate. It just requires going around and around, a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce moose4x4 Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 A piece of thick-walled tubing would work. It would have to be pretty strong tubing, but if it had the right ID to be tapped to then screw onto the original end link it would be easier than starting with a rod. As for the panhard rod, I don't know when they started using them. But my reading says that w/o a track bar the frame/body moves when you try to turn, not the tires & axle. And, it is possible to get into a death wobble. But that's just what I read. That makes sense on the panhard bar. There is quite a bit of difference in the frames pre 80 and post 80. You build is looking good. keep up the good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 24, 2019 Author Share Posted October 24, 2019 That makes sense on the panhard bar. There is quite a bit of difference in the frames pre 80 and post 80. You build is looking good. keep up the good work. Moose - Thanks! Jim - I'm using a digital torque wrench, so no cheater allowed. (But I do have pieces of pipe laying around that do serve as cheaters when I need them.) Speaking of torque, I was a bit blown away with how easy it was to change out the Pitman arm. I got the air impact out 'cause it is supposed to be torqued to 170 - 230 ft-lbs. However, the nut came off pretty easily. Then I put the puller on and used a breakover to tighten it up before using the impact on it - and the Pitman arm moved, long before I got "down on it". So that Pitman arm wasn't fully seated on the splines. But I will assure you this one is ON. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 Moose - Thanks! Jim - I'm using a digital torque wrench, so no cheater allowed. (But I do have pieces of pipe laying around that do serve as cheaters when I need them.) Speaking of torque, I was a bit blown away with how easy it was to change out the Pitman arm. I got the air impact out 'cause it is supposed to be torqued to 170 - 230 ft-lbs. However, the nut came off pretty easily. Then I put the puller on and used a breakover to tighten it up before using the impact on it - and the Pitman arm moved, long before I got "down on it". So that Pitman arm wasn't fully seated on the splines. But I will assure you this one is ON. A 6:1 multiplier between ratchet and socket would mean you apply 33.3# and the nut is torqued to spec. How hard is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 A 6:1 multiplier between ratchet and socket would mean you apply 33.3# and the nut is torqued to spec. How hard is that? This is 3.3:1 so you'd need 66#', but it IS available Prime from delivery tomorrow.. 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 ...depends on how long your cheater bar is... You do realize there are such things as torque multiplying wrenches and ratchets, don't you? 1200 foot pounds is easy to generate. It just requires going around and around, a lot. Dangit! The forum is REALLY screwing me up with inserting images, links and attachments lately.. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03715B-Torque-Multiplier-Foot-Pound/dp/B0017K5ARU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts