Gary Lewis Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 Today I cleaned, primed and painted the frame horns, the welded-in frame boxes, and the engine crossmember. (The latter isn't really part of the SORD project, but since it had been repaired by welding a patch in it needed to be painted as well.) Plus I primed/painted the bolt holes both in the frame horns as well as where the rear spring hangers bolt on. I'd said I was going to use POR15 for this, but I realized today that there was a lot of paint left on and wasn't sure POR would adhere to that. Plus, there was essentially no rust, which it likes to bond to. So I just used rattle can primer and satin black paint. Maybe tomorrow I can get the SORD crossmember powder coated and then I can start the installation of all the bits and pieces. And today I media blasted the SORD crossmember and powder coated it. Then I installed it as well as the two rear shackle hangers and torqued all the fasteners. I was hoping to get the springs hung today, but I discovered that I've missed powder coating a couple of parts, and I ran out of time anyway. So maybe tomorrow I can get that done and then, maybe hook up to the D60. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 And today I media blasted the SORD crossmember and powder coated it. Then I installed it as well as the two rear shackle hangers and torqued all the fasteners. I was hoping to get the springs hung today, but I discovered that I've missed powder coating a couple of parts, and I ran out of time anyway. So maybe tomorrow I can get that done and then, maybe hook up to the D60. Today I got the springs installed and then the Dana 60 quasi installed. But it was not without problems. However, I overcame most of them, and here's the proof: Having said that, I do have a problem. The lower shock mount hits the differential where a flange sticks out. You can see it in the pic below where the left end of the shock plate hits the diff, but there's space showing between the plate and the spring. It is in the right place as it has to fit over the bolt head that holds the spring pack together, so I don't understand why I'm having the problem. Any suggestions? Also, here's an example of why you want a donor vehicle. Spot the difference(s) in the shock towers? Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 And today I media blasted the SORD crossmember and powder coated it. Then I installed it as well as the two rear shackle hangers and torqued all the fasteners. I was hoping to get the springs hung today, but I discovered that I've missed powder coating a couple of parts, and I ran out of time anyway. So maybe tomorrow I can get that done and then, maybe hook up to the D60. Progress is good! But isn't tomorrow a day of rest? Or, maybe BB isn't work or a chore, but just time to be in the moment and relax. I've been getting the tack room ready for winter, running power for that electric baseboard, mending and painting fences, and prepping some lighting and power on the far side of the paddock where I need to weld in the guard rail by the retaining wall. So, no truck stuff sadly. But I am practicing with the flux core out in the wind, and that will help me fix Lil' Red before winter weather hits (hopefully:nabble_smiley_thinking:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 Progress is good! But isn't tomorrow a day of rest? Or, maybe BB isn't work or a chore, but just time to be in the moment and relax. I've been getting the tack room ready for winter, running power for that electric baseboard, mending and painting fences, and prepping some lighting and power on the far side of the paddock where I need to weld in the guard rail by the retaining wall. So, no truck stuff sadly. But I am practicing with the flux core out in the wind, and that will help me fix Lil' Red before winter weather hits (hopefully:nabble_smiley_thinking:) BB isn't truly work, although torquing those bolts to 180 lb ft is a chore. Hope you get the welding down pat so you can fix that pinch weld. Winter is just around the corner. On the interference, I'm going to check to see if one of the shock plates is shorter than the other, but I don't think so. If not, then I may have to shorten that plate, But the issue is that the tab is what hits the bump stop, so I can't shorten it much. Oh, and I forgot to mention the u-bolts. The SORD instructions say to install new ones, but I thought mine were ok. Nope! After cleaning them up they need to be replaced. They measure 3" inside and 8" long and are 12-2.0mm. Any suggestions on where to get them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 BB isn't truly work, although torquing those bolts to 180 lb ft is a chore. Hope you get the welding down pat so you can fix that pinch weld. Winter is just around the corner. On the interference, I'm going to check to see if one of the shock plates is shorter than the other, but I don't think so. If not, then I may have to shorten that plate, But the issue is that the tab is what hits the bump stop, so I can't shorten it much. Oh, and I forgot to mention the u-bolts. The SORD instructions say to install new ones, but I thought mine were ok. Nope! After cleaning them up they need to be replaced. They measure 3" inside and 8" long and are 12-2.0mm. Any suggestions on where to get them? What goes on that tab? Nothing? Grind it to clear. Don't forget that RSK is giving you an extra 2" in height, so will your axle even hit the bumpstop? As for the shock towers, F350's got the 4 bolt, F250's have two. I thought we covered that very early on? The towers were updated around 86 to go from a stud to the bolt design up top. New Front U-Bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 BB isn't truly work, although torquing those bolts to 180 lb ft is a chore. Hope you get the welding down pat so you can fix that pinch weld. Winter is just around the corner. On the interference, I'm going to check to see if one of the shock plates is shorter than the other, but I don't think so. If not, then I may have to shorten that plate, But the issue is that the tab is what hits the bump stop, so I can't shorten it much. Oh, and I forgot to mention the u-bolts. The SORD instructions say to install new ones, but I thought mine were ok. Nope! After cleaning them up they need to be replaced. They measure 3" inside and 8" long and are 12-2.0mm. Any suggestions on where to get them? I would say go to any spring shop or truck repair & parts store. They will usually bend them up for you while you wait. Surely there's some places in T-town? But without clicking the link, I assume Shaun has you covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 20, 2019 Author Share Posted October 20, 2019 What goes on that tab? Nothing? Grind it to clear. Don't forget that RSK is giving you an extra 2" in height, so will your axle even hit the bumpstop? As for the shock towers, F350's got the 4 bolt, F250's have two. I thought we covered that very early on? The towers were updated around 86 to go from a stud to the bolt design up top. New Front U-Bolts Jim - Shaun has me covered. Shaun - I like the Sky solution. Thanks. And I want Option C as it is a perfect fit. I'll call Erik on Monday. As for the tab, I'll probably grind it off, but am confused as to why it hits. The diff and the shock plates were used together, so how could it not work? Hmmm, maybe the '95 springs are thicker? That would do it! On the shock towers, we may have covered it, but it was probably when I was inundated with info and some of it rolled right off. Or, I've slept since then. Either way, that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it. Do you know the correct positioning for the towers? In other words, do I evenly space the bolt holes with reference to the existing holes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 Jim - Shaun has me covered. Shaun - I like the Sky solution. Thanks. And I want Option C as it is a perfect fit. I'll call Erik on Monday. As for the tab, I'll probably grind it off, but am confused as to why it hits. The diff and the shock plates were used together, so how could it not work? Hmmm, maybe the '95 springs are thicker? That would do it! On the shock towers, we may have covered it, but it was probably when I was inundated with info and some of it rolled right off. Or, I've slept since then. Either way, that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it. Do you know the correct positioning for the towers? In other words, do I evenly space the bolt holes with reference to the existing holes? My bet would be on thicker springs. You are correct, it needs to be mounted even to where the stock mount is. So your holes should go on either side of the two stock holes. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 20, 2019 Author Share Posted October 20, 2019 Jim - Shaun has me covered. Shaun - I like the Sky solution. Thanks. And I want Option C as it is a perfect fit. I'll call Erik on Monday. As for the tab, I'll probably grind it off, but am confused as to why it hits. The diff and the shock plates were used together, so how could it not work? Hmmm, maybe the '95 springs are thicker? That would do it! On the shock towers, we may have covered it, but it was probably when I was inundated with info and some of it rolled right off. Or, I've slept since then. Either way, that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it. Do you know the correct positioning for the towers? In other words, do I evenly space the bolt holes with reference to the existing holes? My bet would be on thicker springs. You are correct, it needs to be mounted even to where the stock mount is. So your holes should go on either side of the two stock holes. Thanks. This kind of info will help the next guy that does this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 Jim - Shaun has me covered. Shaun - I like the Sky solution. Thanks. And I want Option C as it is a perfect fit. I'll call Erik on Monday. As for the tab, I'll probably grind it off, but am confused as to why it hits. The diff and the shock plates were used together, so how could it not work? Hmmm, maybe the '95 springs are thicker? That would do it! On the shock towers, we may have covered it, but it was probably when I was inundated with info and some of it rolled right off. Or, I've slept since then. Either way, that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it. Do you know the correct positioning for the towers? In other words, do I evenly space the bolt holes with reference to the existing holes? Gary, was the 95 a Diesel truck? 7.3L PSD is even heavier than a 460 and has two big batteries and an enormous radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts