reamer Posted July 30, 2019 Author Share Posted July 30, 2019 More or less. That's about the most slop you'll get before it starts skipping. *** if you still have a plastic cam gear. OK will do that next. Ill have my assistant (daughter) watch the dizzy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 OK will do that next. Ill have my assistant (daughter) watch the dizzy! You can do it all from right on top. Get a 4" extension if your 1/2" drive deep well is too short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 More or less. That's about the most slop you'll get before it starts skipping. *** if you still have a plastic cam gear. Well me thinks I found the issue..... I went out and grabbed the 15/16" socket, I rotated the crank counterclockwise till the rotor started to move. Since I was on top, I took where the ratchet handle lined up with the radiator shroud, I put a mark on the shroud. Now I rotated clockwise, until the rotor started to move, Then I marked that spot. I have just over 5 linear inches rotation of the crank till the rotor moved. The shroud measures 22" in Diameter. = just over 69" in Circumference. 5 linear inches on a circle with a 69" circumference = 25.31 degrees of play..... Why does this idle fine? because of no load? do a WOT and she screams nicely... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Well me thinks I found the issue..... I went out and grabbed the 15/16" socket, I rotated the crank counterclockwise till the rotor started to move. Since I was on top, I took where the ratchet handle lined up with the radiator shroud, I put a mark on the shroud. Now I rotated clockwise, until the rotor started to move, Then I marked that spot. I have just over 5 linear inches rotation of the crank till the rotor moved. The shroud measures 22" in Diameter. = just over 69" in Circumference. 5 linear inches on a circle with a 69" circumference = 25.31 degrees of play..... Why does this idle fine? because of no load? do a WOT and she screams nicely... See my recent postings in the wdydtytt for what you're about to get into. Man, that sucks. It's a lot of work to do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Well me thinks I found the issue..... I went out and grabbed the 15/16" socket, I rotated the crank counterclockwise till the rotor started to move. Since I was on top, I took where the ratchet handle lined up with the radiator shroud, I put a mark on the shroud. Now I rotated clockwise, until the rotor started to move, Then I marked that spot. I have just over 5 linear inches rotation of the crank till the rotor moved. The shroud measures 22" in Diameter. = just over 69" in Circumference. 5 linear inches on a circle with a 69" circumference = 25.31 degrees of play..... Why does this idle fine? because of no load? do a WOT and she screams nicely... Put the timing light on it and snap the throttle open. Watch the timing marks as the engine returns to idle. It should be really smooth as the advance retreats. If it seems jittery, that is the chain flailing around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Well me thinks I found the issue..... I went out and grabbed the 15/16" socket, I rotated the crank counterclockwise till the rotor started to move. Since I was on top, I took where the ratchet handle lined up with the radiator shroud, I put a mark on the shroud. Now I rotated clockwise, until the rotor started to move, Then I marked that spot. I have just over 5 linear inches rotation of the crank till the rotor moved. The shroud measures 22" in Diameter. = just over 69" in Circumference. 5 linear inches on a circle with a 69" circumference = 25.31 degrees of play..... Why does this idle fine? because of no load? do a WOT and she screams nicely... Yes, you probably found the problem. But, it may not be as bad as you think. I say that because most of my ratchets and breakovers have enough slop in them to account for many degrees. So to be accurate you'd need to take the slack out of the wrench in the same direction both times before marking the shroud. But do as Jim suggested and see what happens when you snap the throttle closed. However, you should plug the vacuum advance or it may cause some movement. And Jim's travails are well documented. However, what he didn't have was a broken off bolt 'cause he went with stainless bolts last time. In my experience the Windsors are really bad about breaking bolts. So, don't pull it down until you have the time to drill out a broken bolt - and go find a replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Yes, you probably found the problem. But, it may not be as bad as you think. I say that because most of my ratchets and breakovers have enough slop in them to account for many degrees. So to be accurate you'd need to take the slack out of the wrench in the same direction both times before marking the shroud. But do as Jim suggested and see what happens when you snap the throttle closed. However, you should plug the vacuum advance or it may cause some movement. And Jim's travails are well documented. However, what he didn't have was a broken off bolt 'cause he went with stainless bolts last time. In my experience the Windsors are really bad about breaking bolts. So, don't pull it down until you have the time to drill out a broken bolt - and go find a replacement. When the valve events get too out of sync from the pistons approaching and retreating from TDC, charge gets forced back out causing carb spitting, and the spark happens too late to do anything but follow the piston down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Well me thinks I found the issue..... I went out and grabbed the 15/16" socket, I rotated the crank counterclockwise till the rotor started to move. Since I was on top, I took where the ratchet handle lined up with the radiator shroud, I put a mark on the shroud. Now I rotated clockwise, until the rotor started to move, Then I marked that spot. I have just over 5 linear inches rotation of the crank till the rotor moved. The shroud measures 22" in Diameter. = just over 69" in Circumference. 5 linear inches on a circle with a 69" circumference = 25.31 degrees of play..... Why does this idle fine? because of no load? do a WOT and she screams nicely... Shroud is centered on the water pump. The breaker is on the crank. You need to use the radius of the breaker handle to the shroud lip to determine rotation. I think you're reading ***WAY*** too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Yes, you probably found the problem. But, it may not be as bad as you think. I say that because most of my ratchets and breakovers have enough slop in them to account for many degrees. So to be accurate you'd need to take the slack out of the wrench in the same direction both times before marking the shroud. But do as Jim suggested and see what happens when you snap the throttle closed. However, you should plug the vacuum advance or it may cause some movement. And Jim's travails are well documented. However, what he didn't have was a broken off bolt 'cause he went with stainless bolts last time. In my experience the Windsors are really bad about breaking bolts. So, don't pull it down until you have the time to drill out a broken bolt - and go find a replacement. Maybe source some stainless bolts to put it back together! I use Loctite PST on the threads of all those bolts through the timing case, and water pump too. Can't seize if corrosion can't get to the threads. And this anaerobic sealant does not really affect breakaway torque. One of these two is your friend for bolts in the timing case or water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 But, it may not be as bad as you think. I agree Gary. Also note that he rotated the crank CCW first until all the slack came out, and then rotated the crank CW. Even if everything is fine, there'd be a lot of slack to switch from CCW to CW. When I took my 302 apart, the factory chain was really loose, and that was with only 30k miles on it. Might be hard to tell in the picture below, but that chain was really loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts