ArdWrknTrk Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 Gaaah This is what I get for putting my phone on do not disturb... Gary beats me to the punch. It isn't a race, although there may be some friendly competition. No. I didn't mean like that. I meant, I didn't want to be bothered by the constant 'ping', and then I ended up making a redundant post. You did get to it first. I just meant to acknowledge that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 No. I didn't mean like that. I meant, I didn't want to be bothered by the constant 'ping', and then I ended up making a redundant post. You did get to it first. I just meant to acknowledge that. I didn't mean it was bad. Don't worry, I wasn't at all concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 To All, When it came to the timing I've been told 4 degree by quite a few gear heads and mechanics here. Right now my follow up question and what I'm going to ask Comp also is "To do the cam and timing correctly, should I just get the whole kit so it's easier in the end or are the rebuilt (passenger) and new (drivers) head hardware acceptable? I realize that I didn't address these. 1) I believe the guy I know, and has grease under their fingernails. 2) First you have to know what hardware you DO have. If you don't want this to be a very painful and expensive learning experience, get the right retainers, springs and shims. Set the head up to work with the cam you decide on. I'll add, (again) you don't need or want the complexity of a multi key or infinitely adjustable timing sprocket. KISS, and you can't make an expensive mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 From what I've read about, the EGR seems a little more critical/a pain when not working on 87 or higher model trucks because of the dummy light, emissions and electronics. For fuel mileage there's a mixed reaction of how much it actually affects people. Since all of the emissions is already removed on mine, the EGR vacuum line is looped to itself and no electronics I'm thinking I don't need it then. With timing (retard) what people have said to me and my recent education, the consensus is my setup should be a retard of 4 degrees at the cam. There's a lot of material I found saying that 0 degree is the standard from the factory. People say 4 degree depending on stock cams, stock motor and/or Ford wanting to pass emissions in the 70's and 80's. I don't know how much of that is fact because, as we all know, "If it's on the internet it's true." Don, Since this is to be an 'emissions delete' vehicle and you have had the heads refurbished (IDK to what extent) I'm going to explain plugging the AIR pump thermactor port in the back of each head. When you pulled the heads off you noticed a tube connecting the two, with a check valve attached towards the center. On a Windsor engine the port where these attach is threaded 5/8-11. You can use either a shortened bolt (about 3/4" long) with a copper crush washer, or a 5/8-11 pipe plug with a square or hex recess. It's really important to make sure it (they) are sealed, because that thermactor passage leads directly to each exhaust port. You will otherwise have a really loud ticking exhaust leak that will scorch your firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 Don, Since this is to be an 'emissions delete' vehicle and you have had the heads refurbished (IDK to what extent) I'm going to explain plugging the AIR pump thermactor port in the back of each head. When you pulled the heads off you noticed a tube connecting the two, with a check valve attached towards the center. On a Windsor engine the port where these attach is threaded 5/8-11. You can use either a shortened bolt (about 3/4" long) with a copper crush washer, or a 5/8-11 pipe plug with a square or hex recess. It's really important to make sure it (they) are sealed, because that thermactor passage leads directly to each exhaust port. You will otherwise have a really loud ticking exhaust leak that will scorch your firewall. Good point, Jim. Don - You may have to run a tap into the hole in order to find threads, much less get something to thread in there. I've seen them coked up to the point they were almost closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 Good point, Jim. Don - You may have to run a tap into the hole in order to find threads, much less get something to thread in there. I've seen them coked up to the point they were almost closed. I can quickly see this thread morphing into MANY eight page microanalyses (?) Maybe Don should start a "351 upgrade" project thread? 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 Good point, Jim. Don - You may have to run a tap into the hole in order to find threads, much less get something to thread in there. I've seen them coked up to the point they were almost closed. Going by how clean his refreshed cylinder heads look, I would imagine that the shop cleaned those holes out...or at least I would think that they would. Either way, they still need to be plugged. Ford did away with those thermactor holes later on. My SBF GT40 heads are from an Explorer and there are no Thermactor humps, ports, or holes. Jegs and others sell Thermactor hole plugs, linked below. I actually bought a set but later sold them with some other stuff when I realized that I didn't need them;). https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51495/10002/-1 5/8" Bolts are just as easy as noted...and on the back of the engine, who cares what they look like anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 Going by how clean his refreshed cylinder heads look, I would imagine that the shop cleaned those holes out...or at least I would think that they would. Either way, they still need to be plugged. Ford did away with those thermactor holes later on. My SBF GT40 heads are from an Explorer and there are no Thermactor humps, ports, or holes. Jegs and others sell Thermactor hole plugs, linked below. I actually bought a set but later sold them with some other stuff when I realized that I didn't need them;). https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51495/10002/-1 5/8" Bolts are just as easy as noted...and on the back of the engine, who cares what they look like anyway. I didn't see the pic of his heads. *swoon Yes, you can also buy 0.666" Welsh plugs at NAPA. I forget the p/n. They knock in just like on the front of the heads. No use for "afterburner" once they went efi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 I didn't see the pic of his heads. *swoon You know you're a gearhead when you can appreciate a picture of a clean set of SBF cylinder heads;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 You know you're a gearhead when you can appreciate a picture of a oily pair of SBF cylinder heads;) FIFY. By the way Don, how old is your son? Is this some sort of 'bonding' project for you two? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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