Steve83 Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 /file/n32359/10.jpgHave you followed the rubber hose & steel line down the wheelwell & under the truck to see what that contraption is? It almost looks like a switching valve for a bifuel (gas/propane/CNG) system. I'd guess the problem with HVAC airflow is related to blend door cable adjustment, or vacuum lines. I'm not familiar with that dealer A/C, but some of your pics seem to show cut vacuum lines under the dash. In any case, I'd look into pulling all that mess out (even the in-dash box, which is the hardest part) and swapping to a factory A/C in-dash box (almost any '80-96 will work), and a '94-96 (R134a) underhood system. Battery terminals like that negative one make me cringe... https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/723279/thumbnail/07done.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emunder Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share Posted July 17, 2019 Do you still have it Cory? It might make a nice forum*warming gift. Haha...maybe, I'll have a look this weekend;). @ Rembrant: Thank you I will take a look at the cab reinforcement brace for the master cylinder, wasn't aware of that issue. @ Ardwrkntrk: 1. Yeah I took the battery brace off because at the bottom of the pan where it connects is rusted so it doesn't hold it down. I've since run a heavy duty black zip tie around the battery & the pan to keep it held down for the time being. 2. You are correct on the rad support...it has writing from a junk yard so they replaced it. 3. Where can you get the duct work? I would like to get that routed back to the front. Also...do you need anything to connect it to the air cleaner & rad support (assuming that's where it attaches on the other end). 4. I will def take a look at the bushing on the clutch pedal...thx for the heads up on that! 5. Yes that wiring around the thermostat housing goes to the AC compressor. That whole system is ******rigged lol. I'm also worried because the accumulator because the stock unit is missing. From what I can tell this is what is supposed to be there... Looks like they completely moved it to the front of the truck with some type of aftermarket piece... And then all of the AC lines are just rubber hoses with hose clamps instead of the pressure fittings. I have no idea how the system blows cold & is not leaking. 6. Guessing the evap coil is in the cab under the pass side dash by the fan unit? Where is the AC condensate drain? Same location? Guessing I need to look & see if one or both of these is clogged. May solve the leak issue & the weak air coming out of the vents. The system blows cold it's just that there is barely any air coming out of the vents when the fan is on high. It stays consistently cold but the airflow is also consistently weak. Never speeds up when the AC is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emunder Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share Posted July 17, 2019 /file/n32359/10.jpgHave you followed the rubber hose & steel line down the wheelwell & under the truck to see what that contraption is? It almost looks like a switching valve for a bifuel (gas/propane/CNG) system. I'd guess the problem with HVAC airflow is related to blend door cable adjustment, or vacuum lines. I'm not familiar with that dealer A/C, but some of your pics seem to show cut vacuum lines under the dash. In any case, I'd look into pulling all that mess out (even the in-dash box, which is the hardest part) and swapping to a factory A/C in-dash box (almost any '80-96 will work), and a '94-96 (R134a) underhood system. Battery terminals like that negative one make me cringe... https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/723279/thumbnail/07done.jpg Steve yes...I was thinking the same thing. Knew all those weird steel lines on the driver side fender were not stock. I will track them down & see where they go but I agree...they need to be pulled out & issue corrected w/ stock parts. I also agree on the neg battery terminal...they have all kinds of things connected to the terminals. Ughhhh...I really hate it when people do stupid stuff like this, then you have to go back & correct everything. My issue is I am not finding any pics online on how all of this is supposed to look. Thinking about just buying a set of shop manuals. Figure the Chilten or Hayes are probably not sufficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorsai Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 And then all of the AC lines are just rubber hoses with hose clamps instead of the pressure fittings. I have no idea how the system blows cold & is not leaking. Believe it or not, that may be correct for dealer air - my 1980 is that way and despite appearances it doesn't seem to leak. 6. Guessing the evap coil is in the cab under the pass side dash by the fan unit? Where is the AC condensate drain? Same location? Guessing I need to look & see if one or both of these is clogged. May solve the leak issue & the weak air coming out of the vents. The system blows cold it's just that there is barely any air coming out of the vents when the fan is on high. It stays consistently cold but the airflow is also consistently weak. Never speeds up when the AC is on. Your 16th photo on your big photo post shows the condensate drain; that rubber hose that goes down behind the floor mat exits the truck through a hole drilled in the floor. If you take your dash pad off (again, assuming yours is similar to mine) you'll see the plenum containing the evaporator coil. There will be two ducts on the left side of it feeding the drivers side A/C vents, my guess is that one or both of these have gotten disconnected and that's why you're not feeling it blow. You can also remove the passenger side A/C vents (there are spring tabs on either side of the vents holding them in, they might be brittle) and see into the plenum. I don't have a good photo of my setup, but I had the same problem with no air coming out of my drivers side vents - here's what I found at the plenum: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emunder Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share Posted July 17, 2019 And then all of the AC lines are just rubber hoses with hose clamps instead of the pressure fittings. I have no idea how the system blows cold & is not leaking. Believe it or not, that may be correct for dealer air - my 1980 is that way and despite appearances it doesn't seem to leak. 6. Guessing the evap coil is in the cab under the pass side dash by the fan unit? Where is the AC condensate drain? Same location? Guessing I need to look & see if one or both of these is clogged. May solve the leak issue & the weak air coming out of the vents. The system blows cold it's just that there is barely any air coming out of the vents when the fan is on high. It stays consistently cold but the airflow is also consistently weak. Never speeds up when the AC is on. Your 16th photo on your big photo post shows the condensate drain; that rubber hose that goes down behind the floor mat exits the truck through a hole drilled in the floor. If you take your dash pad off (again, assuming yours is similar to mine) you'll see the plenum containing the evaporator coil. There will be two ducts on the left side of it feeding the drivers side A/C vents, my guess is that one or both of these have gotten disconnected and that's why you're not feeling it blow. You can also remove the passenger side A/C vents (there are spring tabs on either side of the vents holding them in, they might be brittle) and see into the plenum. I don't have a good photo of my setup, but I had the same problem with no air coming out of my drivers side vents - here's what I found at the plenum: Ok good to know on the AC hose fittings. I've never seen that before but then again this is the first old vehicle I have had with AC. None of my older cars in the past had air lol. I'll pull the dash pad & see if I can see what you are showing me...that makes sense if one of the ducts is not attached. I really want to find that leak so I'm not in danger of having my pass side floor board rusting up. Great forum & you guys are all awesome! Thanks so much for all the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 Ok good to know on the AC hose fittings. I've never seen that before but then again this is the first old vehicle I have had with AC. None of my older cars in the past had air lol. I'll pull the dash pad & see if I can see what you are showing me...that makes sense if one of the ducts is not attached. I really want to find that leak so I'm not in danger of having my pass side floor board rusting up. Great forum & you guys are all awesome! Thanks so much for all the help! Hey, this has been on eBay for awhile. Maybe it can add to this discussion. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1981-Ford-Bronco-Light-Truck-A-C-Evaporator-System-Bezel-Kit-dp/263739946959?hash=item3d682037cf:g:4CMAAOSwKRBa-jAN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 Hey, this has been on eBay for awhile. Maybe it can add to this discussion. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1981-Ford-Bronco-Light-Truck-A-C-Evaporator-System-Bezel-Kit-dp/263739946959?hash=item3d682037cf:g:4CMAAOSwKRBa-jAN That's a neat kit seeing how it comes with all the different bezels/controls for the bronco, single tank, rear tank, and cubby hole (what my 1980 has). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 That's a neat kit seeing how it comes with all the different bezels/controls for the bronco, single tank, rear tank, and cubby hole (what my 1980 has). Certainly a lot of good parts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 @ Rembrant: Thank you I will take a look at the cab reinforcement brace for the master cylinder, wasn't aware of that issue. @ Ardwrkntrk: 1. Yeah I took the battery brace off because at the bottom of the pan where it connects is rusted so it doesn't hold it down. I've since run a heavy duty black zip tie around the battery & the pan to keep it held down for the time being. 2. You are correct on the rad support...it has writing from a junk yard so they replaced it. 3. Where can you get the duct work? I would like to get that routed back to the front. Also...do you need anything to connect it to the air cleaner & rad support (assuming that's where it attaches on the other end). 4. I will def take a look at the bushing on the clutch pedal...thx for the heads up on that! 5. Yes that wiring around the thermostat housing goes to the AC compressor. That whole system is ******rigged lol. I'm also worried because the accumulator because the stock unit is missing. From what I can tell this is what is supposed to be there... Looks like they completely moved it to the front of the truck with some type of aftermarket piece... And then all of the AC lines are just rubber hoses with hose clamps instead of the pressure fittings. I have no idea how the system blows cold & is not leaking. 6. Guessing the evap coil is in the cab under the pass side dash by the fan unit? Where is the AC condensate drain? Same location? Guessing I need to look & see if one or both of these is clogged. May solve the leak issue & the weak air coming out of the vents. The system blows cold it's just that there is barely any air coming out of the vents when the fan is on high. It stays consistently cold but the airflow is also consistently weak. Never speeds up when the AC is on. 1) battery trays we can find. David???? 2) But with all that, they couldn't be bothered to paint it... 3) The duct can be bought at NAPA generically. There is a plastic boot that attaches just inboard of the battery tray. Gary posted the numbers when he was building Dad's dual snorkel air cleaner. (March 2015?) I posted the date of the thread last week when I asked him about typefaces. 4) Yes. Look right above the gas pedal. You'll see the whiteish four finger bushing. Dormant sells that in an assortment of wiper linkage bushings. (On my lunch now, don't have the number handy) 5) I'm pretty good with looms, but that is a rats nest. Can't be hard to make right. (But you shouldn't have to) Anyway, keep it coming! I hope you fall in love with your new truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 1) battery trays we can find. David???? Oddly, new battery trays are available...aftermarket of course. I have one in my truck. The factory design was really awful when you consider what road salt does to sheetmetal. They're available from LMC for sure, and I think I've seen 'em on Rock Auto and Ebay as well. I bought the whole works from LMC with the hold down "J" bolts and nuts, and the plastic brace across the top of the battery. I believe they even sell the little triangle bracket that attaches to the core support, although that one is more prone to getting removed and lost as opposed to rusting away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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