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Electrical Problem again


jdavidsmi

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This doesn't tell me if it's ammeter or idiot light.

The Alternator is 1G, a couple of months old, new, not a rebuild. I have the gauges on my dash, but the dash does not have a tach, just the blank spot.

When I first got the truck I added a stand alone volt meter, everything I read said not to trust the amp meter gauge.

The term "heavy duty" for the voltage regulator is what the guy at NAPA call it. its NAPA # is ECH VR440. which is a Echlin.

David

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The Alternator is 1G, a couple of months old, new, not a rebuild. I have the gauges on my dash, but the dash does not have a tach, just the blank spot.

When I first got the truck I added a stand alone volt meter, everything I read said not to trust the amp meter gauge.

The term "heavy duty" for the voltage regulator is what the guy at NAPA call it. its NAPA # is ECH VR440. which is a Echlin.

David

So you have an integral regulator . . . what needs to be checked are the connections to the regulator..

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No, he has a 1G with an external regulator.

OK stock alternator, then you do this very basic test. Unplug thew regulator and jump the F and A terminals together, at the connector. Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter. It should be very high. If it is not, you have an alternator problem or a wiring problem feeding the alternator.If it does jump high, but when plugged back in the voltage at the battery returns to an unacceptable level, you have a bad regulator or bad wiring feeding it. Not fun stuff, but not too difficult. This simple test will clarify the problem.

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OK stock alternator, then you do this very basic test. Unplug thew regulator and jump the F and A terminals together, at the connector. Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter. It should be very high. If it is not, you have an alternator problem or a wiring problem feeding the alternator.If it does jump high, but when plugged back in the voltage at the battery returns to an unacceptable level, you have a bad regulator or bad wiring feeding it. Not fun stuff, but not too difficult. This simple test will clarify the problem.

Pete, thanks for the information but I do have a couple of questions about the test. after I jump A & F do I start the truck? and checking the battery voltage is between the pos and neg post on the battery, correct?

David

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Pete, thanks for the information but I do have a couple of questions about the test. after I jump A & F do I start the truck? and checking the battery voltage is between the pos and neg post on the battery, correct?

David

after I jump A & F do I start the truck? . . . . you do if you want to get a charging reading :)

And yes checking battery voltage right at the battery terminals.

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thanks

So your truck *does* have an ammeter?

I'll post the wiring diagram and troubleshooting.

Better yet, take advantage of the tremendous resource Gary provides and look for yourself at the EVTM charge circuit he has here on his website.

Click the hamburger at the upper left of this page.

Click EVTM.

Choose a year.

Click charge and power distribution.

Choose with ammeter.

There you will find all the factory troubleshooting, simplified wiring diagrams, and illustrations.

I'm willing to bet you have a wire mis-connected, for the system you have.

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No test yet?

Completed, the test voltage was around 17.10, moving up down. About the same as when the regulator was plugged in. Looks like a another bad regulator.

I have rechecked the wiring to the alternator and it was correct. The wire from the bat terminal on the alternator, branches at two locations between the alternator and the starter relay, this wire pass the second branch, near the starter relay got very hot.

:nabble_smiley_sad:But everything has to be on hold for a week, We are heading up to Mass., for a family member's funereal.

 

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