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A new tool


ArdWrknTrk

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Jim - I wondered about the ability of PLA to do that job. Do some printers allow the use of nylon?

And, that makes sense about smoothness on the bed. Perhaps the HP printer that Ron's sending the bezel to has a really hot bed that makes the first layer quite smooth? That would be handy for the top of the bead since it will be painted silver and texture will show.

Different plastics have different melting points.

What I understand is that PLA prints at around 190C, ABS at ~220C, and 'Nylon' at higher temps than that.

So it all depends on how hot the extruder is (or can get)

A heated stage is almost a requirement for some plastics because the thermal expansion -or contraction actually- will cause them to pull right off the bed due to distortion.

There are many formulations of Nylon.

Different properties and TG temperatures.

One thing to keep in mind is that they are all hygroscopic. (Like the welding flux discussed above)

Nylon needs to be dry, or the moisture will flash to steam when in the head causing all kinds of problems.

It seems 'Nylon' filament is usually extruded at 260-270C, and I don't know if Bill's printer is capable of that.

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There are many formulations of Nylon.

Different properties and TG temperatures.

One thing to keep in mind is that they are all hygroscopic. (Like the welding flux discussed above)

Nylon needs to be dry, or the moisture will flash to steam when in the head causing all kinds of problems.

It seems 'Nylon' filament is usually extruded at 260-270C, and I don't know if Bill's printer is capable of that.

Thank you for capitalizing "Nylon". As an ex-DuPont employee I should have done so as well. :nabble_smiley_blush:

But I didn't realize it is hygroscopic. That would be a problem when heating it above 212. Is storing it in a zip-lock bag sufficient or does it have to be in heated storage?

I was fairly up to speed on 3D printing a couple of years ago, but haven't followed it since so I'm sure there have been many, MANY advancements in printers and material in that time.

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Thank you for capitalizing "Nylon". As an ex-DuPont employee I should have done so as well. :nabble_smiley_blush:

But I didn't realize it is hygroscopic. That would be a problem when heating it above 212. Is storing it in a zip-lock bag sufficient or does it have to be in heated storage?

I was fairly up to speed on 3D printing a couple of years ago, but haven't followed it since so I'm sure there have been many, MANY advancements in printers and material in that time.

I guess that would depend on how permeable the bag is???

Maybe a Mylar Ziploc bag would be better than PE? IDK

Dessicant in the bag would surely help.

Vacuum or "oven" like the light bulb storage of welding rods couldn't hurt.

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Jim - I wondered about the ability of PLA to do that job. Do some printers allow the use of nylon?

And, that makes sense about smoothness on the bed. Perhaps the HP printer that Ron's sending the bezel to has a really hot bed that makes the first layer quite smooth? That would be handy for the top of the bead since it will be painted silver and texture will show.

The software with the printer does allow for different materials and heat levels. I joined a FB users group so I can ask further questions there.

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So, what else have you made?

A little widget called a Hilbert_Cube_a which is a complex bunch of various angles. I will get a picture of it sometime. The software gives 3 levels of build, fast, standard and fine I think is the other. Apparently the speed and layer thickness are the variables it does have a temperature setting and material tabs. I do have some ABS along with the PLA filament.

DSCN2578_copy.thumb.jpg.2901e5262750785d114e935eac2b5b30.jpg

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A little widget called a Hilbert_Cube_a which is a complex bunch of various angles. I will get a picture of it sometime. The software gives 3 levels of build, fast, standard and fine I think is the other. Apparently the speed and layer thickness are the variables it does have a temperature setting and material tabs. I do have some ABS along with the PLA filament.

Bill,

Have you read anything on vapor polishing your printed objects?

This was a 'thing' when consumer filament printers first came out, but I don't know if it still is.

Another suggestion might be using a vibratory case polisher to burnish your prints.

Seems a lot safer than having a simmering chamber of acetone in the house.

 

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  • 3 months later...
Everyone needs a good setup like that. Its on my list of things to get. So far I haven't run into needing to cut anything a cut-off wheel and a grinding can't handle. But the heat would be nice for loosening the rusty stuff. All I have at the moment is propane.
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