ArdWrknTrk Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Steve thanks for your detailed reply. Problem with tanks, crossmember and cat converters is rust. They are horrible, front tank leaks. I think my best solution for the rest of the parts is to try to find a 92-96 F250 donor with 155 wb, E4OD. This should give me the driveshaft, rear axle(vss) and fuel tanks. As for transferring as much wiring as possible. How does the 96 interior cab harness match up to the 86 controls, steering column etc.? Or did you switch those out as well? As a side note, I put a permit on the 96 donor and took it for a drive. Transmission shifts great, OD lockout and indicator work. Engine nice and smooth with no codes set, all the fluids super clean and no blow-by or odd noises. Even got the speed control to work once I jumpered out the brake pressure switch. A/c blowing 40f at the vents with 80f outside so very happy with all the major systems. Have lots of family visiting at the moment so not much time for projects but in a couple of weeks should be ready to start. Nic55kel Be aware of the Ford cruise control recall that burned hundreds of vehicles and killed some people. From 1994, tens of millions of Ford vehicles with a brake pressure switch made by TI ***To Ford's Specs*** started to fail. The kapton insulation broke down in brake fluid and because the brake lights are NOT on the ignition switch, power is there at all times. Corrosion creates heat which ignites the brake fluid and the brake fluid lights the actual casting of the M/C. I withessed one of these on an early Sunday morning a decade ago. Ben's F-250 was gutted. So was the Landcruiser parked in front of him. If the switch is tripping out. Don't re-apply power to it until it's replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted July 11, 2019 Author Share Posted July 11, 2019 Be aware of the Ford cruise control recall that burned hundreds of vehicles and killed some people. From 1994, tens of millions of Ford vehicles with a brake pressure switch made by TI ***To Ford's Specs*** started to fail. The kapton insulation broke down in brake fluid and because the brake lights are NOT on the ignition switch, power is there at all times. Corrosion creates heat which ignites the brake fluid and the brake fluid lights the actual casting of the M/C. I withessed one of these on an early Sunday morning a decade ago. Ben's F-250 was gutted. So was the Landcruiser parked in front of him. If the switch is tripping out. Don't re-apply power to it until it's replaced. Thanks, should probably have said bypassed the brake pressure switch. I am aware of the problems with the brake switch. I learned about it in 2006 when the wife took her windstar to a supposedly reputable ford dealer here because the speedometer quit working, I was out of town at the time. They charged her an hour for changing the blown fuse and said it would have to be left with them for lots of diagnosis to find out why the fuse was blowing. Wife said no way and drove it like that until I returned. I researched it on the net for a few minutes and found out that the brake switch was problematic and that the speedometer is on the same circuit, I bypassed the switch and end of problem. Hard to believe that a ford dealership did not know about it by 2006 unless they were just trying to milk it. I realize bypassing the switch is one less failsafe but probably safer than leaving it energized and one still has the cruise on/off switch. Nic55kel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Thanks, should probably have said bypassed the brake pressure switch. I am aware of the problems with the brake switch. I learned about it in 2006 when the wife took her windstar to a supposedly reputable ford dealer here because the speedometer quit working, I was out of town at the time. They charged her an hour for changing the blown fuse and said it would have to be left with them for lots of diagnosis to find out why the fuse was blowing. Wife said no way and drove it like that until I returned. I researched it on the net for a few minutes and found out that the brake switch was problematic and that the speedometer is on the same circuit, I bypassed the switch and end of problem. Hard to believe that a ford dealership did not know about it by 2006 unless they were just trying to milk it. I realize bypassing the switch is one less failsafe but probably safer than leaving it energized and one still has the cruise on/off switch. Nic55kel I'm sorry to hear what happened to your wife. But I'm glad you know about the situation and what the signs are. We all take informed risks. You seem well informed, and a good fit here. When Ben had bought his truck he was thinking "some idiot unplugged my cruise" and put it back in without checking that the (second!) round of retrofit *harnesses had been installed. The rest is history. Enjoy your family and your summer vacation! We'll be here. 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Although the cab changed in many ways, to the best of my knowledge the pocket stayed in the same place. Nope, Bullnose trucks have the computer behind the dash close to the radio. The wiring harness for the engine controls goes through the firewall right next to the accelerator cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Although the cab changed in many ways, to the best of my knowledge the pocket stayed in the same place. Nope, Bullnose trucks have the computer behind the dash close to the radio. The wiring harness for the engine controls goes through the firewall right next to the accelerator cable. Shaun, You know I really should have an efi Bullnose if I'm going to open my mouth. I guess Steve explains moving the parking brake over to gain enough room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Shaun, You know I really should have an efi Bullnose if I'm going to open my mouth. I guess Steve explains moving the parking brake over to gain enough room. Moving the parking brake over is only necessary on a Bullnose because the Bricknose and Aeronose trucks have an indentation stamped into the cab for the computer that the Bullnose cab does not. In other words, there's less room between the cab and the parking brake on the Bullnose trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Moving the parking brake over is only necessary on a Bullnose because the Bricknose and Aeronose trucks have an indentation stamped into the cab for the computer that the Bullnose cab does not. In other words, there's less room between the cab and the parking brake on the Bullnose trucks. Yes, I understand where and why. If the '96(?) Isn't too rotted maybe he could actually scab that piece of the cab over. Having the flange would make it easier, I imagine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 I think my best solution for the rest of the parts is to try to find a 92-96 F250 donor with 155 wb, E4OD.Yes, probably so.How does the 96 interior cab harness match up to the 86 controls, steering column etc.?The wire colors are very similar because most of the FUNCTIONS are the same. But most of them won't plug in, so there has to be some splicing somewhere. I wish I had done it AT each component (so it would be easier to update them over time) instead of under the hood.Having the flange would make it easier, I imagine.No, that would be about 10x more work than what I did. Those holes are just sheared through the flat steel - there's not a "flange". So transferring metal isn't necessary. https://supermotors.net/getfile/65187/thumbnail/body_lf.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/71679/thumbnail/eec-install.jpg The big round '88 firewall connector is visible in the '75 here: https://supermotors.net/getfile/469349/thumbnail/08firewall.jpg But this shows the shapes of the 2 driver's-side connectors in '92-96 trucks: https://supermotors.net/getfile/909442/thumbnail/c202205-93b.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted July 13, 2019 Author Share Posted July 13, 2019 I think my best solution for the rest of the parts is to try to find a 92-96 F250 donor with 155 wb, E4OD.Yes, probably so.How does the 96 interior cab harness match up to the 86 controls, steering column etc.?The wire colors are very similar because most of the FUNCTIONS are the same. But most of them won't plug in, so there has to be some splicing somewhere. I wish I had done it AT each component (so it would be easier to update them over time) instead of under the hood.Having the flange would make it easier, I imagine.No, that would be about 10x more work than what I did. Those holes are just sheared through the flat steel - there's not a "flange". So transferring metal isn't necessary. https://supermotors.net/getfile/65187/thumbnail/body_lf.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/71679/thumbnail/eec-install.jpg The big round '88 firewall connector is visible in the '75 here: https://supermotors.net/getfile/469349/thumbnail/08firewall.jpg But this shows the shapes of the 2 driver's-side connectors in '92-96 trucks: https://supermotors.net/getfile/909442/thumbnail/c202205-93b.jpg Thanks again Steve for all the great information. I only have a couple of last thoughts: Does anyone know if the speed control steering wheel resistors are the same 1986 to 1996. I have had no luck finding out what the 1986 values are to compare. Do 155" wb driveshafts with E4OD 2wd have 2 slip joints? One at the transmission and one after the hangar bearing. Anyone know if there is a specific hangar bearing to limit fore/aft motion on the front d/s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Yes, I understand where and why. If the '96(?) Isn't too rotted maybe he could actually scab that piece of the cab over. Having the flange would make it easier, I imagine. *pinch weld of the footwell might have been better phrasing....?* Cool project regardless. 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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