Gifted a project vehicle in OK condition by a buddy, after someone tried to STEAL her.

[Fred1090]

Hello all, I am the happy new owner of an 81 F100 manual with some big issues....

The PO has left her parked on the street for 2-3 years. she was broken into, the hazard switch arm and casing were broken during them trying to hotwire it I guess.

I swapped the battery, put some cleaner in the carb then fuel with octane booster and fuel system cleaner additive. cranking the shit out of the ignition (no key) will now let the truck start. first and reverse are spongy and slightly difficult to shift into while 2 and 3 are audible with the truck off you can hear the linkages solidly lock it into position for the two higher gears.

Problems I know of, steering column shroud/cover damage along with the casting inside. don't even have the hazard switch arm in the vehicle that I can find, pretty sure I need a clutch and master/slave cylinder, the radiator leaks wen hot, there's a ton of junk on the driver's side of the block from an oil leak, the bed is rusted out near the cab from being outside uncovered for years downhill and I should definitely change the all the fluids.

Here hoping to get help sourcing all the parts for the hazards and column as well as advice in general during the repairs.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Welcome to the forum Fred.

Too bad these monkeys didn't know how to hotwire the truck, they could have caused a lot less damage.

First, I'd suggest against using any kind of stop-leak to seal up the radiator.

These are temporary -emergency- measures and usually just clog up numerous passages (like the heater core) or cause the thermostat to fail.

Down in the main forum we have a WTB as well as 'Free to a Good Home' threads.

Given what you say about the column it might be best to find the whole thing "with keys" and swap it in.

Cut your losses trying to replace all the broken bits unless you're an able mechanic.

These things are far trickier than a piece of Ikea furniture inside.

The drivers side of the block has a pushrod cover plate.

Get some engine cleaner and a power washer (if you can) and clean it all off so you can see everything.

**Be careful about spraying the distributor. Tape a bag over it, or something**

The cover probably needs to be removed and resealed.

You don't have a hydraulic clutch.

These didn't exist until 1984 in the 300 trucks (and the concentric throw out slave was sometimes a nightmare)

There is a Z-bar linkage that pivots in plastic bushings.

So check the plastic, replace the bushings.

It's hard to find parts if the actual metal has been grinding for years.

Some of us weld them up so they are serviceable, and there has been discussion of creating an STL file so the NLA bellhousing side can be 3D printed in metal.

HTH, and once again, welcome to the Garage.

[Rembrant]

Greetings Fred,

Good advice above. At this point in their lives, most Bullnose trucks are perpetual projects. They're always going to need something. Get the absolute basics first so that you can prove that the rest of it is worth the trouble. If you have rust issues, look over the frame closely especially under the bed and around the rear shock mounts. Check the cab floor, also around the mounts.

So what is the transmission exactly? a 3spd with a low, or a 3spd with an OD, or an actual 3spd that was converted to floor shift?

[ArdWrknTrk]

If you have rust issues, look over the frame closely especially under the bed and around the rear shock mounts. Check the cab floor, also around the mounts.

... and especially the tops of the rear spring mounts!

Mud and salt get thrown up there and Ford never provided a drain hole.

I say this because I have one sitting in a box, waiting to be done.

 

[Gary Lewis]

If you have rust issues, look over the frame closely especially under the bed and around the rear shock mounts. Check the cab floor, also around the mounts.

... and especially the tops of the rear spring mounts!

Mud and salt get thrown up there and Ford never provided a drain hole.

I say this because I have one sitting in a box, waiting to be done.

Welcome! Glad you found us.

Where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd love to add you. Who knows, you may be close to one of us and we can help.

Jim and Cory have already given good suggestions, as they always do, but I'll add that the steering column is a pain to work on. And, there were several different columns as there was a fixed and tilt column as well as a floor shift and column shift. So the first thing to determine which column you have. Is the slot in the column where the turn signal goes in rectangular or a tee? That corresponds to fixed or tilt.

Then, I assume you have a floor shift. Right? That, coupled with the answer to Cory's question of which transmission, will help as well.

And, what parts are broken? Go here to the illustrations to figure that out: Interior/Steering Columns.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Welcome! Glad you found us.

Where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd love to add you. Who knows, you may be close to one of us and we can help.

Jim and Cory have already given good suggestions, as they always do, but I'll add that the steering column is a pain to work on. And, there were several different columns as there was a fixed and tilt column as well as a floor shift and column shift. So the first thing to determine which column you have. Is the slot in the column where the turn signal goes in rectangular or a tee? That corresponds to fixed or tilt.

Then, I assume you have a floor shift. Right? That, coupled with the answer to Cory's question of which transmission, will help as well.

And, what parts are broken? Go here to the illustrations to figure that out: Interior/Steering Columns.

Sig says floor shift.

If you go back with tilt you might want prophylacticly replace the troublesome pot metal actuator rack.

These things snap off over time with tilting the wheel up and down.

Then sometimes you can't get the truck to start, or turn off.

[Gary Lewis]

Sig says floor shift.

If you go back with tilt you might want prophylacticly replace the troublesome pot metal actuator rack.

These things snap off over time with tilting the wheel up and down.

Then sometimes you can't get the truck to start, or turn off.

Thanks, Jim.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim.

Hey, I'm not picking, I'm just being observant!

Remember, autism is not a bug, it's a feature!

[Gary Lewis]

Hey, I'm not picking, I'm just being observant!

Remember, autism is not a bug, it's a feature!

I actually thought "I read what kind of shift linkage he has somewhere" and went back and re-read the post several times. But didn't look at the sig.

As for autism, you certainly seem to be able to remember things and see the details.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I actually thought "I read what kind of shift linkage he has somewhere" and went back and re-read the post several times. But didn't look at the sig.

As for autism, you certainly seem to be able to remember things and see the details.

Can you elaborate on why Fred's shifter is soft going into first and reverse?

I've never had a SROD or RUG.

Do you have anything to add about mechanical clutches?

I never had a truck with one of those either.