The FORD Lounge

[Gary Lewis]

Went down a rabbit hole with York compressors after getting the major parts I needed on order for AC rework. That rabbit hole being mounting a York on the smog pump bracket to act as an aircomprrssor.

Did you get it mounted? Does it work? I almost did that with Big Blue but then Jim offered me a 3KW inverter and I bought a 110V compressor instead.

No I hadn't done it... Yet. I know jeep guys do it all the time as you basically get a constant duty cycle pump.

If I did it I would rig a pressure switch and override switch and have a 2-3 gallon tank mounted to the frame under the truck. That way when it was "On" and the tank press was say below 120psi it would engage the clutch and charge the system.

If I go electric then I'll add an ARB unit to the truck.

Jim - That sounds like a H U G E mess!!!

Danny - You might consider the way I went with an inverter and a 110v compressor.

[Danny G]

Jim - That sounds like a H U G E mess!!!

Danny - You might consider the way I went with an inverter and a 110v compressor.

Where did you put the compressor? I have a old Kobalt quiet tech 2 gallon sitting in the garage. It pulls about 6 amps @120VAC and is capable of 1.7CFM@90psi 125PSI max. It runs at like 55db.

I also have the next level up that replaced that one which has double the CFM and maxed at 150psi in the shed.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - That sounds like a H U G E mess!!!

Danny - You might consider the way I went with an inverter and a 110v compressor.

Where did you put the compressor? I have a old Kobalt quiet tech 2 gallon sitting in the garage. It pulls about 6 amps @120VAC and is capable of 1.7CFM@90psi 125PSI max. It runs at like 55db.

I also have the next level up that replaced that one which has double the CFM and maxed at 150psi in the shed.

I put the compressor in the middle of the toolbox that is in the bed, put the control panel in the toolbox also, and put the tank below the bed in front of the right rear tire. It is rated at 1.5 HP and it puts out 4.0 CFM @ 90 PSI into a 4 gallon tank and generates 80 dba of noise. Plus, it has a max PSI of 200.

I can find pics if you'd like.

[Danny G]

I put the compressor in the middle of the toolbox that is in the bed, put the control panel in the toolbox also, and put the tank below the bed in front of the right rear tire. It is rated at 1.5 HP and it puts out 4.0 CFM @ 90 PSI into a 4 gallon tank and generates 80 dba of noise. Plus, it has a max PSI of 200.

I can find pics if you'd like.

Yea any guidance on how you did it and/or issues you ran into. I'm kind of curious with the space under the hood if say above the driver side wheel well would be a good mount spot kinda like the tool box/second battery set up.

 

[Danny G]

I put the compressor in the middle of the toolbox that is in the bed, put the control panel in the toolbox also, and put the tank below the bed in front of the right rear tire. It is rated at 1.5 HP and it puts out 4.0 CFM @ 90 PSI into a 4 gallon tank and generates 80 dba of noise. Plus, it has a max PSI of 200.

I can find pics if you'd like.

My unit is definitely going to be smaller. I am going to run out and measure them now.

The York 210 from what I have seen people report will flow 7-8cfm and take a 12gallon tank up to 175psi from about 150 in 30seconda flat. But I don't need something that serious. Were talking airing up flat tires, maybe running a couple air tools.

[Nothing Special]

Where did you put the compressor? I have a old Kobalt quiet tech 2 gallon sitting in the garage. It pulls about 6 amps @120VAC and is capable of 1.7CFM@90psi 125PSI max. It runs at like 55db.

I also have the next level up that replaced that one which has double the CFM and maxed at 150psi in the shed.

Keep in mind that 6 amps at 120V is60 amps at 12V. Or that Gary's 1.5 hp is ~1100 watts, or ~93 amps at 12V. So it's definitely possible, but it is serious automotive electrical power, and needs to be wired accordingly. And you probably don't want to run it (at least much) without the engine running.

(This is why most 12V air compressors are so anemic. Too much copper is required to get them enough power otherwise)

 

[Danny G]

Where did you put the compressor? I have a old Kobalt quiet tech 2 gallon sitting in the garage. It pulls about 6 amps @120VAC and is capable of 1.7CFM@90psi 125PSI max. It runs at like 55db.

I also have the next level up that replaced that one which has double the CFM and maxed at 150psi in the shed.

Keep in mind that 6 amps at 120V is60 amps at 12V. Or that Gary's 1.5 hp is ~1100 watts, or ~93 amps at 12V. So it's definitely possible, but it is serious automotive electrical power, and needs to be wired accordingly. And you probably don't want to run it (at least much) without the engine running.

(This is why most 12V air compressors are so anemic. Too much copper is required to get them enough power otherwise)

I was wondering what that draw looked like. Definitely a second battery and inverter situation. I was going to put a large inverter in there too.

I was just checking the numbers the 3/4 horse unit that flows 1.4CFM is packaged in a 12.5W x 12L x 6H unit the stronger unit is this guy here and it's about 11W x 4L x 8 H.

Max psi on this one is 150. 2.8CFM at 90psi and pulls 7.5 amps.

TBH they are probably the same induction motor just one is in a case and dialed back due to a smaller tank.

Power inverters are internally fused. A 2000watt continuous like Harbor freight sells has 8 x 30 amp fuses and connects to your battery with an 8Gauge cable under 6ft.

A 7.5Amp compressor is going to pull 855 watts so a 2k inverter is more than enough.

Assuming inverters consume about 150Ah per 1000Watts a 300Ah deep cell should last 2+ hours with the engine off running that compressor.

I think it doesn't matter which way you go you are going to spend money adapting the system. Electric needs inverter and wire. The York 210 is going to need to be mounted to the smog pump location in a way it can be belt driven and the clutch needs to controlled as needed. Everything else is on the same footing.

[Gary Lewis]

I was wondering what that draw looked like. Definitely a second battery and inverter situation. I was going to put a large inverter in there too.

I was just checking the numbers the 3/4 horse unit that flows 1.4CFM is packaged in a 12.5W x 12L x 6H unit the stronger unit is this guy here and it's about 11W x 4L x 8 H.

Max psi on this one is 150. 2.8CFM at 90psi and pulls 7.5 amps.

TBH they are probably the same induction motor just one is in a case and dialed back due to a smaller tank.

Power inverters are internally fused. A 2000watt continuous like Harbor freight sells has 8 x 30 amp fuses and connects to your battery with an 8Gauge cable under 6ft.

A 7.5Amp compressor is going to pull 855 watts so a 2k inverter is more than enough.

Assuming inverters consume about 150Ah per 1000Watts a 300Ah deep cell should last 2+ hours with the engine off running that compressor.

I think it doesn't matter which way you go you are going to spend money adapting the system. Electric needs inverter and wire. The York 210 is going to need to be mounted to the smog pump location in a way it can be belt driven and the clutch needs to controlled as needed. Everything else is on the same footing.

Start reading at this post to see how I tested the inverter and compressor.

Still looking for the posts about installing the compressor. But here's a shot as I was installing the compressor, the black thing, and the control panel.

[Danny G]

Start reading at this post to see how I tested the inverter and compressor.

Still looking for the posts about installing the compressor. But here's a shot as I was installing the compressor, the black thing, and the control panel.

Thanks Gary I appreciate it. I will look later while I'm traveling . I got started down the choke documentation as the PO has a manual Choke in the truck. Looks like I need to see what carb is currently installed before I go any further. I guess I'm just trying to understand what parts are in the system and how they work.

That and why the thermostat house has two 3 port vacuum trees lol.

[viven44]

That and why the thermostat house has two 3 port vacuum trees lol.

(Apologize if this isn’t Lounge talk)

Let me regurgitate recent memory on this since I have 2 trucks with the 460. Gary and Jim helped me figure this out when I was doing my 78 Bronco. Here is a video on a portion of that

One should be a 2 port valve and the other a 3 port valve.

- The 2 port valve helps supply PORTED vacuum to the EGR valve through a VDV (Vacuum delay valve) after the coolant is warm enough.. I think 160F+..

- The 3 port valve is to supply vacuum to the distributor.

Center ---- connected to distributor

PORT 1 (top)---- when cold -- the vacuum is routed through a VREST (little blue device) to the intake which provides a stable vacuum signal until the truck is warm

PORT 2 (bottom) ---- when warm (~125 maybe) -- the vacuum is hooked up straight to the manifold as the vacuum should be stable when the truck is warmed up sufficiently

The old valves on my 460 were probably not working...

I was unable to buy a 2 port valve (not able to find it.. but I didn't look hard enough honestly)

I tried using the 3 port valve for the EGR that I bought from JBG.. unfortunately it doesn't work well because I think the truck is still not warm enough (~125) to run EGR. I need to try the 2 port valve if I can find it.