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Carburetor/Throttle Help


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It will idle with or without the ball connected, but it has a lower idle when connected. It won't return to idle when disconnected.
That's very weird, and sounds like it could be another symptom of your problem.Are you sure you got the springs back in the right place when you reassembled it?
I am not 100% sure about the springs, but I removed the spring that is almost directly below the throttle cable connection. The idle was through the roof with it in place, but it was, when connected, exactly where it was before I began the project. 

 

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On Jul 2, 2019, at 9:04 PM, ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

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So, I checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. I did notice some varation in idle when I sprayed on the choke side of the carburetor, but I can't see where it would be leaking from. The only thing I can think of is the wedge and gasket. Should there be a gasket on both sides of the wedge? My kit only came with one. Would this effect my idle?
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So, I checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. I did notice some varation in idle when I sprayed on the choke side of the carburetor, but I can't see where it would be leaking from. The only thing I can think of is the wedge and gasket. Should there be a gasket on both sides of the wedge? My kit only came with one. Would this effect my idle?

The fact that the idle changes says you have a vacuum leak, and that will raise idle speeds so must be addressed.

But, I don't know what you mean by "the wedge". Do you mean 9A589 in this illustration? If so that's the spacer and yes you must have a gasket both sides or it'll leak.

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So, I checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. I did notice some varation in idle when I sprayed on the choke side of the carburetor, but I can't see where it would be leaking from. The only thing I can think of is the wedge and gasket. Should there be a gasket on both sides of the wedge? My kit only came with one. Would this effect my idle?

Ok, one concern I have after reading this, since that carburetor is a replacement for the VV carburetor, it should be a new enough design to have a return spring on the throttle shaft, it will be what is called a torsion spring, meaning it is a "twisting" style like a clothespin spring. The spacer or as you called it wedge, probably had an EGR valve on it, if it did and is aluminum those are known to burn through from the exhaust gases.

You say that with the cable disconnected the throttle wants to stick, does it do it with the carburetor off the engine? If not, then something in the "stack" (plate to manifold, plate and plate to carburetor) is not flat. One item I have run into many times, the carburetor mounting gasket (top one under the carburetor) is usually a thick insulating gasket, many of the aftermarket ones in rebuild kits lack the hard spacers around the bolts which are put there so the gasket will only compress enough to seal, without them the corners will compress too far resulting in the throttle body warping and binding the throttle shaft.

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The fact that the idle changes says you have a vacuum leak, and that will raise idle speeds so must be addressed.

But, I don't know what you mean by "the wedge". Do you mean 9A589 in this illustration? If so that's the spacer and yes you must have a gasket both sides or it'll leak.

Gary- Yes, I am referring to the spacer (9A589). It did not look great when I pulled off the carburetor and it clearly had a gasket on both sides. However, since my kit only came with one gasket, I was hoping for the best. I can't say that I am surprised that this is an issue.

Bill- the carb. does indeed have a tension spring and it woks fine off the engine. This has been the place where I have really been stuck. I took the carburetor off the engine twice trying to figure this out- it had not occured to me that something so seemingly subtle could make it 'bind' as it were. The gasket is fine, it has four corners, but the spacer could be an issue as to why it isn't laying down flat.

Thanks, gentlemen, I will be away this week, but I am going to order a new spacer and gasket and give it another shot next weekend.

 

 

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Gary- Yes, I am referring to the spacer (9A589). It did not look great when I pulled off the carburetor and it clearly had a gasket on both sides. However, since my kit only came with one gasket, I was hoping for the best. I can't say that I am surprised that this is an issue.

Bill- the carb. does indeed have a tension spring and it woks fine off the engine. This has been the place where I have really been stuck. I took the carburetor off the engine twice trying to figure this out- it had not occured to me that something so seemingly subtle could make it 'bind' as it were. The gasket is fine, it has four corners, but the spacer could be an issue as to why it isn't laying down flat.

Thanks, gentlemen, I will be away this week, but I am going to order a new spacer and gasket and give it another shot next weekend.

 

 

It's unlikely you need a new spacer.

Put a sheet of coarse wet-or-dry paper on a flat surface (like a countertop) and move the spacer around in a figure-8 pattern.

Both sides, and the carb base too.

You will see right away if it's not rubbing somewhere.

If there's a big hole in the spacer by the EGR port, than yeah get a new one if you can't weld.

If the carb ears are bent down, then you need to either keep going with the sandpaper or use a little sealant on re-assembly. (Not exactly 'proper practice' but it will fix the leak.)

Start with getting the right *9447 EGR spacer base gasket.

Show them the above picture if you get a counter person who has never seen a carburetor before.

 

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It's unlikely you need a new spacer.

Put a sheet of coarse wet-or-dry paper on a flat surface (like a countertop) and move the spacer around in a figure-8 pattern.

Both sides, and the carb base too.

You will see right away if it's not rubbing somewhere.

If there's a big hole in the spacer by the EGR port, than yeah get a new one if you can't weld.

If the carb ears are bent down, then you need to either keep going with the sandpaper or use a little sealant on re-assembly. (Not exactly 'proper practice' but it will fix the leak.)

Start with getting the right *9447 EGR spacer base gasket.

Show them the above picture if you get a counter person who has never seen a carburetor before.

I agree with Jim. The sandpaper approach works well to level things, and shows where the high spots are very quickly. You need all of those surfaces to be FLAT.

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Show them the above picture if you get a counter person who has never seen a carburetor before.

Harking back to what I said about the march of technology, I realize that my truck was the very last implementation of a carburetor in the United States.

And at 32 years old it's unlikely that anyone under 42 would remember it as it was sold.

I have to remind myself whenever I try to buy something like points that the person selling it to me never lived in a world where they existed.

(Sorry for the hijack)

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Show them the above picture if you get a counter person who has never seen a carburetor before.

Harking back to what I said about the march of technology, I realize that my truck was the very last implementation of a carburetor in the United States.

And at 32 years old it's unlikely that anyone under 42 would remember it as it was sold.

I have to remind myself whenever I try to buy something like points that the person selling it to me never lived in a world where they existed.

(Sorry for the hijack)

Good point! I'll think about that next time I'm in the parts store.

But what are you buying points for? :nabble_smiley_uh:

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Good point! I'll think about that next time I'm in the parts store.

But what are you buying points for? :nabble_smiley_uh:

Two strokes, Gravely's, .... stuff

B&S and Volkswagen can always be converted over, most Kolhers too.

But outboards, dirt bikes, BSA's: some things just need points.

BTW, how about an old man shaking fist at clouds emoji????

I think FTE had something like that.

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