Rembrant Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 I'm happy to report that more progress has been made. Cab mounted... And the windshield cleaned. Inside cleaned and the floor painted with Chassis Saver. The underside was painted with CS too. BTW, which way is the vent hose in the above picture suppose to be orientated? Driveshafts... New bushings on the stabilizer bar and all new steering 'rack'. It's my old steering box, just cleaned and painted. I bought a rebuild kit for the pump and I plan on using that too. Rear stabilizer with new bushings and end-links. 'New' alternator bracket. I also got a remanufactured alternator as I didn't feel like cleaning and painting the old one, but for a $10 core I kept it just in case the new Chinese one fails... It does have a Motorcraft case though. I'm going to have to remove the bracket again to install the alternator... And my comical looking HEI distributor. It fits but it is huge! And then finally I'm currently busy with interior... I went with Killmat after studying Gary's cost evaluation... Padding and carpet to follow. But I'm also working on finishing the brakes and the fuel. Then probably putting more of the interior together before starting the wiring. I have some unknown parts, but I'll post questions in the main section. That looks awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 That looks awesome! Very nice indeed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 I'm happy to report that more progress has been made. Cab mounted... And the windshield cleaned. Inside cleaned and the floor painted with Chassis Saver. The underside was painted with CS too. BTW, which way is the vent hose in the above picture suppose to be orientated? Driveshafts... New bushings on the stabilizer bar and all new steering 'rack'. It's my old steering box, just cleaned and painted. I bought a rebuild kit for the pump and I plan on using that too. Rear stabilizer with new bushings and end-links. 'New' alternator bracket. I also got a remanufactured alternator as I didn't feel like cleaning and painting the old one, but for a $10 core I kept it just in case the new Chinese one fails... It does have a Motorcraft case though. I'm going to have to remove the bracket again to install the alternator... And my comical looking HEI distributor. It fits but it is huge! And then finally I'm currently busy with interior... I went with Killmat after studying Gary's cost evaluation... Padding and carpet to follow. But I'm also working on finishing the brakes and the fuel. Then probably putting more of the interior together before starting the wiring. I have some unknown parts, but I'll post questions in the main section. Wow! It is looking great! As for the vent hose, it goes up the shift lever, inside the boot. See if this helps: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 Wow! It is looking great! As for the vent hose, it goes up the shift lever, inside the boot. See if this helps: Thank you gents. And Gary for the info, I looked at my other main section post first, so Shane beat you to my query - two different questions, same answer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 Thank you gents. And Gary for the info, I looked at my other main section post first, so Shane beat you to my query - two different questions, same answer... The amount of Kill-Mat you used on the floor is what I have in mind for my F350. Doing every square inch is unnecessary and a waste of time and material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted March 14, 2020 Author Share Posted March 14, 2020 The amount of Kill-Mat you used on the floor is what I have in mind for my F350. Doing every square inch is unnecessary and a waste of time and material. I believe it will make a difference and be worth the small investment in time and money. Doing every square inch might be better, but wouldn't be worth it for me. This topic was discussed a long time ago on FTE and I remember that the theory was you only really needed to cover about 25% of a panel to reduce vibration. I did the doors back then. Now if your goal is insulation from noise and temperature then maybe 100% is better, I would assume so. I believe the padding and carpet will achieve that for me. I added a few pieces to the firewall after the picture was taken(using the old stuff from the roll in the picture). And I still have 9 mats for the back wall of the cab and ceiling. I'm planning on putting carpet across the back and installing an aftermarket headliner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 The amount of Kill-Mat you used on the floor is what I have in mind for my F350. Doing every square inch is unnecessary and a waste of time and material. I believe it will make a difference and be worth the small investment in time and money. Doing every square inch might be better, but wouldn't be worth it for me. This topic was discussed a long time ago on FTE and I remember that the theory was you only really needed to cover about 25% of a panel to reduce vibration. I did the doors back then. Now if your goal is insulation from noise and temperature then maybe 100% is better, I would assume so. I believe the padding and carpet will achieve that for me. I added a few pieces to the firewall after the picture was taken(using the old stuff from the roll in the picture). And I still have 9 mats for the back wall of the cab and ceiling. I'm planning on putting carpet across the back and installing an aftermarket headliner. Looks great! I wish i had the space and time to do such a thorough resto. Maybe in a few years time i will. That kill mat will do wonders! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 Looks great! I wish i had the space and time to do such a thorough resto. Maybe in a few years time i will. That kill mat will do wonders! I'm having a bit of a nightmare with the transmission shift lever retainer cap... The documentation for the NP435 says you need a special tool, that might be the case, but I'm wondering if my cap is damaged? I think it might not have been secure before I disassembled everything, I vaguely remember the shift lever coming out of the transmission... While driving:nabble_smiley_oh_no: I picked up an air cleaner at the salvage yard as I would like to use a stock one over the bling versions, for the cold air function. It was quite a hard find, there are actually very few carb engines left in the yards. This one came from a '78 E?50. I'm not too concerned about it not having the hot air diverter on the snorkel It has two ports to the chamber, one of which was plugged with a grommet(not pictured) and a blue valve across from them. Mine only had one port for access from the oil cap. The valve on the lid is the same. Can someone please explain the PCV system to me, what are the required basics? Vacuum from the carb to the PCV valve on the valve cover, air from the oil cap to the air cleaner(is that just a vent?)... Is that it? I'm trying to figure out how to make this work. Also, does anyone have a recommendation for an aftermarket throttle cable, the original won't work with the new carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 I'm having a bit of a nightmare with the transmission shift lever retainer cap... The documentation for the NP435 says you need a special tool, that might be the case, but I'm wondering if my cap is damaged? I think it might not have been secure before I disassembled everything, I vaguely remember the shift lever coming out of the transmission... While driving:nabble_smiley_oh_no: I picked up an air cleaner at the salvage yard as I would like to use a stock one over the bling versions, for the cold air function. It was quite a hard find, there are actually very few carb engines left in the yards. This one came from a '78 E?50. I'm not too concerned about it not having the hot air diverter on the snorkel It has two ports to the chamber, one of which was plugged with a grommet(not pictured) and a blue valve across from them. Mine only had one port for access from the oil cap. The valve on the lid is the same. Can someone please explain the PCV system to me, what are the required basics? Vacuum from the carb to the PCV valve on the valve cover, air from the oil cap to the air cleaner(is that just a vent?)... Is that it? I'm trying to figure out how to make this work. Also, does anyone have a recommendation for an aftermarket throttle cable, the original won't work with the new carb. That cap may be bent. And you do not need a tool to take it off or put it on. Just gloves and/or shop towels to protect your hands - you press down HARD and turn it to lock/unlock it. I could probably take the one on my tranny off and get a pic of it tomorrow if you need it. And you've got the PCV system figured out. Air goes in via the filter on the side of the air cleaner, through the hose to the oil filler cap, down through the crankcase, up to the PCV valve, and then into the base of the carb to be burned. The only aftermarket throttle cable I've heard of is Lokar. Can you post a pic? I'm curious what the issue is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 I'm having a bit of a nightmare with the transmission shift lever retainer cap... The documentation for the NP435 says you need a special tool, that might be the case, but I'm wondering if my cap is damaged? I think it might not have been secure before I disassembled everything, I vaguely remember the shift lever coming out of the transmission... While driving:nabble_smiley_oh_no: I picked up an air cleaner at the salvage yard as I would like to use a stock one over the bling versions, for the cold air function. It was quite a hard find, there are actually very few carb engines left in the yards. This one came from a '78 E?50. I'm not too concerned about it not having the hot air diverter on the snorkel It has two ports to the chamber, one of which was plugged with a grommet(not pictured) and a blue valve across from them. Mine only had one port for access from the oil cap. The valve on the lid is the same. Can someone please explain the PCV system to me, what are the required basics? Vacuum from the carb to the PCV valve on the valve cover, air from the oil cap to the air cleaner(is that just a vent?)... Is that it? I'm trying to figure out how to make this work. Also, does anyone have a recommendation for an aftermarket throttle cable, the original won't work with the new carb. I posted a Purolator part number the other day for the breather filter assembly that fits inside the air cleaner housing. I do believe the Ford number was cross referenced following that. They're only $5 and include the retainer clip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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