ArdWrknTrk Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 So finally another update... Just about everything got a coat of Chassis Saver. New ball joints. I went with Mevotech, time will tell if that was a mistake. But I do like that I can call and speak to someone about their product, as I had to do with the lower joints. The nuts were a real pain to get on... This D44 spindle bearing and seal kit also baffled my mind. I replaced the spindle needle bearing and the seal(even though the new seal was rubber only with no metal casing), but these parts I couldn't figure out and I had no one to call about that. The new 1.5" leveling coils also appears to have been a mistake, nothing aligns properly, hopefully it's still workable. I also got new rotor+hub combos for an excellent price on Rockauto. And MM hubs. And yes, I went without these. I had been looking for replacements everywhere without success. Then I read that Gary was considering going without them on Big Blue, so I thought, if Gary can go without dust shields then so can I! Dust shields aren't hard to find for a 150. -aftermarket- It's when you get to the 8,600+ brakes they are (were?) unobtainable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 Wow! That looks fantastic! X💯 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 Wow! That looks fantastic! On the brake dust shields, it is Shaun's fault as he said I could do it. On those seals, go here: Documentation/Driveline/Axles And Differentials and go to the Instructions and then Dana 44 tabs. That gets you the section from the factory shop manual. As for the engine paint, how did you like the POR paint? Thanks Gary. I did not find any details other than the part numbers for the axle/spindle seals. I bought a digital copy of the factory shop manual years ago, truth be told, don't think I've ever used it for anything. The Haynes manual is way more useful in my garage! But anyway, the old seal on the axle appears fine. As for the engine enamel, OK I guess. The first coat was terrible, but almost certainly because I did not mix it well enough. I painted straight from the can(1/2 pint) with a sponge brush. The engine had a coat of paint on it from the builder. Two coats were sufficient and would be in most cases I think. Some reviews said more were required, but I did not find that to be the case(especially not once the paint was mixed properly), maybe if you apply it to bare metal? The finish looks good I think, you don't see brush strokes, but time will tell how it holds up. What are you/have you used on Dad's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 Dust shields aren't hard to find for a 150. -aftermarket- It's when you get to the 8,600+ brakes they are (were?) unobtainable. Wish I had found some... There are aftermarket ones on Ebay, but all 5 lug that I found. Just looked again now and found used 6 lug ones for $105... https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-DUST-SHIELD-COVER-FORD-F150-1987-1988-DANA-44-IFS-RIGHT-LEFT-SIDE-87-88/362752935946?fits=Model%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item5475c2880a:g:OlMAAOSw-itXve1Q:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!35094!US!-1 Anyway, I think it will be OK without any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Dust shields aren't hard to find for a 150. -aftermarket- It's when you get to the 8,600+ brakes they are (were?) unobtainable. Wish I had found some... There are aftermarket ones on Ebay, but all 5 lug that I found. Just looked again now and found used 6 lug ones for $105... https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-DUST-SHIELD-COVER-FORD-F150-1987-1988-DANA-44-IFS-RIGHT-LEFT-SIDE-87-88/362752935946?fits=Model%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item5475c2880a:g:OlMAAOSw-itXve1Q:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!35094!US!-1 Anyway, I think it will be OK without any. POR-15 usually goes one quite thin and takes a couple of coats minimum to cover. That's kind of why I was asking. But once it cures it is TOUGH! Anyway, your paint job looks good. Bet it'll work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Wow! That looks fantastic! X💯 Life goals, looks great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted February 15, 2020 Author Share Posted February 15, 2020 Life goals, looks great So I managed to find a good set of EFI exhaust manifolds at a local salvage yard and the owner was kind enough to let me pull it from one of his 'complete' engines. Made removing it reasonably easy and quick. I also ordered an intake manifold. I painted the intake with engine enamel and the exhaust with flameproof, hopefully it holds up. The exhaust manifolds were sand blasted first. I got some generic hardware from Tractor Supply, grade 5 bolts and grade 8 washers, to replace the original stuff. I also used both gaskets which helped level the difference between the manifolds. It appears to be rock-solid, but who knows what vibration can do. I'll definitely keep an eye on it to make sure the exhaust manifolds don't slip... I'm happy with how it looks, so if it holds I probably won't bother with changing to a later head. I ordered the Y-pipe from Advanced Auto. I painted the top part with the Flameproof(VHT) as well, hopefully it doesn't flake off or smoke away at the first start up! I got a replacement pushrod cover from the same engine a few days later. Don't ask why I needed a new one... That engine does not look healthy inside, so I probably wouldn't want that head anyway... It cleaned up nicely though... It is a different design from the carb models, any particular reason? Now I just have to order a carb spacer, wiring harness and probably HEI distributor to continue the engine assembly. The cab is going back on first... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 15, 2020 Share Posted February 15, 2020 So I managed to find a good set of EFI exhaust manifolds at a local salvage yard and the owner was kind enough to let me pull it from one of his 'complete' engines. Made removing it reasonably easy and quick. I also ordered an intake manifold. I painted the intake with engine enamel and the exhaust with flameproof, hopefully it holds up. The exhaust manifolds were sand blasted first. I got some generic hardware from Tractor Supply, grade 5 bolts and grade 8 washers, to replace the original stuff. I also used both gaskets which helped level the difference between the manifolds. It appears to be rock-solid, but who knows what vibration can do. I'll definitely keep an eye on it to make sure the exhaust manifolds don't slip... I'm happy with how it looks, so if it holds I probably won't bother with changing to a later head. I ordered the Y-pipe from Advanced Auto. I painted the top part with the Flameproof(VHT) as well, hopefully it doesn't flake off or smoke away at the first start up! I got a replacement pushrod cover from the same engine a few days later. Don't ask why I needed a new one... That engine does not look healthy inside, so I probably wouldn't want that head anyway... It cleaned up nicely though... It is a different design from the carb models, any particular reason? Now I just have to order a carb spacer, wiring harness and probably HEI distributor to continue the engine assembly. The cab is going back on first... Man, that is looking GOOD! And it is coming along quite nicely. On the side cover, I'm guessing it is just a later/better design. The raised rib on the newer design would keep the cover straighter and probably help keep it sealed. The older style would tend to fold between the bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 15, 2020 Share Posted February 15, 2020 So I managed to find a good set of EFI exhaust manifolds at a local salvage yard and the owner was kind enough to let me pull it from one of his 'complete' engines. Made removing it reasonably easy and quick. I also ordered an intake manifold. I painted the intake with engine enamel and the exhaust with flameproof, hopefully it holds up. The exhaust manifolds were sand blasted first. I got some generic hardware from Tractor Supply, grade 5 bolts and grade 8 washers, to replace the original stuff. I also used both gaskets which helped level the difference between the manifolds. It appears to be rock-solid, but who knows what vibration can do. I'll definitely keep an eye on it to make sure the exhaust manifolds don't slip... I'm happy with how it looks, so if it holds I probably won't bother with changing to a later head. I ordered the Y-pipe from Advanced Auto. I painted the top part with the Flameproof(VHT) as well, hopefully it doesn't flake off or smoke away at the first start up! I got a replacement pushrod cover from the same engine a few days later. Don't ask why I needed a new one... That engine does not look healthy inside, so I probably wouldn't want that head anyway... It cleaned up nicely though... It is a different design from the carb models, any particular reason? Now I just have to order a carb spacer, wiring harness and probably HEI distributor to continue the engine assembly. The cab is going back on first... That really does look Great, Rob! A lot of work went into cleaning and painting that frame and running gear. Which Rancho shocks do you have, and why did you choose them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted February 15, 2020 Author Share Posted February 15, 2020 Man, that is looking GOOD! And it is coming along quite nicely. On the side cover, I'm guessing it is just a later/better design. The raised rib on the newer design would keep the cover straighter and probably help keep it sealed. The older style would tend to fold between the bolts. Thanks Gary. And we'll just say that's exactly why I had to replace my pushrod cover... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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