Eddy Myrtle

[Sac79]

i could use the rims how much for shipping to central ny

I've sent you an email Farmboy.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've sent you an email Farmboy.

How far out is he in NY, Oswego?

I could probably get them from the Delaware line to Binghamton, NY.

[Sac79]

How far out is he in NY, Oswego?

I could probably get them from the Delaware line to Binghamton, NY.

I finally replaced the balancer this week. Removing everything was a bit of a chore, but all in all , not too painful.

I had to go as far as removing the stone guard to have enough space for my impact wrench. After picking up a removal tool from Advanced I had to go back shortly after to get a tool for the fan!

Upon inspecting the seal and gasket, I'm reasonably sure the timing cover seal was the main culprit, but without having done any real testing, I can't say the pan gasket wasn't also leaking. You can see some oil on the outside of the seal and most of the oil is on top of the pan gasket. Also, notice the 'ring' caused by the balancer rubber.

I can't believe I was so cheap as to want to reuse this. It 'wobbled' from the start, not excessively, but compared to the new one, very noticeably. Also, it's definitely shifted 'out' on the rubber as there wasn't so much of it visible when I installed it last year. But it hasn't 'rotated', the outside notch and inner key still aligns.

I did consider for a moment taking another shortcut and not replacing the pan gasket. Apparently you can do that, just cut the gasket flush with the block and replace it with a cut to size piece. I suppose that could be acceptable with the four piece gasket, but I had no intention of cutting the new one piece and besides, taking shortcuts got me into this mess.

So I did it properly and removed the old(less than 2 month old!) gasket, pictured above. I made things easier by removing the starter which I didn't do last time because I was lazy, it took two minutes! It was a lot easier to clean the surfaces after using the rubber gasket compared to the cork gaskets. I used a little bit of RTV in the corners and plenty of Gasgacinch everywhere else. Also, instead of dragging the new gasket through the pan to get it in place(covering it in oil and getting it caught on the pickup) I pulled it over the outside... Using a little 3/8" pneumatic wrench all the bolts were a breeze as well.

I refilled all the fluids this morning in anticipation of a test drive to Advanced to return the tools. But at the turn of the key, just a click... My first thought was 'Walmart battery...', the truck has only been sitting 3 weeks though, surely not. I switched on the voltmeter/USB port, 12.2V, should still turn over with that. Popped the hood. Smoke by the battery. Oh no. Start to poke around and my eye just happens to catch the loose wire by the starter... I thought, ahh, the starter has no power, but what was smoking? Hopefully I didn't blow the solenoid or something. Anyway, slide underneath to reconnect it and realize that of course it's the ground and not power. Check up top again...

So I guess the starter tried to ground itself(or the electricity tried to return to the source) via the engine block, firewall, fender and through my puny wire to the battery. Hopefully nothing else was affected. I'll replace this wire with something more substantial directly to the clamp, oops.

Anyway, bone dry so far... I'll take a longer drive this weekend, but I'm feeling good about it this time.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I finally replaced the balancer this week. Removing everything was a bit of a chore, but all in all , not too painful.

I had to go as far as removing the stone guard to have enough space for my impact wrench. After picking up a removal tool from Advanced I had to go back shortly after to get a tool for the fan!

Upon inspecting the seal and gasket, I'm reasonably sure the timing cover seal was the main culprit, but without having done any real testing, I can't say the pan gasket wasn't also leaking. You can see some oil on the outside of the seal and most of the oil is on top of the pan gasket. Also, notice the 'ring' caused by the balancer rubber.

I can't believe I was so cheap as to want to reuse this. It 'wobbled' from the start, not excessively, but compared to the new one, very noticeably. Also, it's definitely shifted 'out' on the rubber as there wasn't so much of it visible when I installed it last year. But it hasn't 'rotated', the outside notch and inner key still aligns.

I did consider for a moment taking another shortcut and not replacing the pan gasket. Apparently you can do that, just cut the gasket flush with the block and replace it with a cut to size piece. I suppose that could be acceptable with the four piece gasket, but I had no intention of cutting the new one piece and besides, taking shortcuts got me into this mess.

So I did it properly and removed the old(less than 2 month old!) gasket, pictured above. I made things easier by removing the starter which I didn't do last time because I was lazy, it took two minutes! It was a lot easier to clean the surfaces after using the rubber gasket compared to the cork gaskets. I used a little bit of RTV in the corners and plenty of Gasgacinch everywhere else. Also, instead of dragging the new gasket through the pan to get it in place(covering it in oil and getting it caught on the pickup) I pulled it over the outside... Using a little 3/8" pneumatic wrench all the bolts were a breeze as well.

I refilled all the fluids this morning in anticipation of a test drive to Advanced to return the tools. But at the turn of the key, just a click... My first thought was 'Walmart battery...', the truck has only been sitting 3 weeks though, surely not. I switched on the voltmeter/USB port, 12.2V, should still turn over with that. Popped the hood. Smoke by the battery. Oh no. Start to poke around and my eye just happens to catch the loose wire by the starter... I thought, ahh, the starter has no power, but what was smoking? Hopefully I didn't blow the solenoid or something. Anyway, slide underneath to reconnect it and realize that of course it's the ground and not power. Check up top again...

So I guess the starter tried to ground itself(or the electricity tried to return to the source) via the engine block, firewall, fender and through my puny wire to the battery. Hopefully nothing else was affected. I'll replace this wire with something more substantial directly to the clamp, oops.

Anyway, bone dry so far... I'll take a longer drive this weekend, but I'm feeling good about it this time.

Congrat's!!! Feels good to get something like that done, even if you had a minor setback with the wiring.

Taking a big trip this weekend?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I finally replaced the balancer this week. Removing everything was a bit of a chore, but all in all , not too painful.

I had to go as far as removing the stone guard to have enough space for my impact wrench. After picking up a removal tool from Advanced I had to go back shortly after to get a tool for the fan!

Upon inspecting the seal and gasket, I'm reasonably sure the timing cover seal was the main culprit, but without having done any real testing, I can't say the pan gasket wasn't also leaking. You can see some oil on the outside of the seal and most of the oil is on top of the pan gasket. Also, notice the 'ring' caused by the balancer rubber.

I can't believe I was so cheap as to want to reuse this. It 'wobbled' from the start, not excessively, but compared to the new one, very noticeably. Also, it's definitely shifted 'out' on the rubber as there wasn't so much of it visible when I installed it last year. But it hasn't 'rotated', the outside notch and inner key still aligns.

I did consider for a moment taking another shortcut and not replacing the pan gasket. Apparently you can do that, just cut the gasket flush with the block and replace it with a cut to size piece. I suppose that could be acceptable with the four piece gasket, but I had no intention of cutting the new one piece and besides, taking shortcuts got me into this mess.

So I did it properly and removed the old(less than 2 month old!) gasket, pictured above. I made things easier by removing the starter which I didn't do last time because I was lazy, it took two minutes! It was a lot easier to clean the surfaces after using the rubber gasket compared to the cork gaskets. I used a little bit of RTV in the corners and plenty of Gasgacinch everywhere else. Also, instead of dragging the new gasket through the pan to get it in place(covering it in oil and getting it caught on the pickup) I pulled it over the outside... Using a little 3/8" pneumatic wrench all the bolts were a breeze as well.

I refilled all the fluids this morning in anticipation of a test drive to Advanced to return the tools. But at the turn of the key, just a click... My first thought was 'Walmart battery...', the truck has only been sitting 3 weeks though, surely not. I switched on the voltmeter/USB port, 12.2V, should still turn over with that. Popped the hood. Smoke by the battery. Oh no. Start to poke around and my eye just happens to catch the loose wire by the starter... I thought, ahh, the starter has no power, but what was smoking? Hopefully I didn't blow the solenoid or something. Anyway, slide underneath to reconnect it and realize that of course it's the ground and not power. Check up top again...

So I guess the starter tried to ground itself(or the electricity tried to return to the source) via the engine block, firewall, fender and through my puny wire to the battery. Hopefully nothing else was affected. I'll replace this wire with something more substantial directly to the clamp, oops.

Anyway, bone dry so far... I'll take a longer drive this weekend, but I'm feeling good about it this time.

I knew the 300 had the ground cable go to the starter motor instead of the block.

I didn't realize that it doesn't have a tab connecting it to the frame along the way.

Though maybe that wouldn't matter if the direct route to the wiper motor puts the path through the body?

Anyway, glad to see you've got the front of your engine tightened up.

Hope you have a great trip this weekend.

[Sac79]

Congrat's!!! Feels good to get something like that done, even if you had a minor setback with the wiring.

Taking a big trip this weekend?

Thanks Gary. We had planned to finally go to Atlanta, but the bookshelves at IKEA aren't in stock. So nothing special planned now, just a drive longer than the 10 mile run today.

Jim, the starter ground is connected to the frame along the way, but not being connected to the starter, made that irrelevant. Nothing is really grounded on the frame in my truck anyway. So the only real return route for any electricity was via that skinny wire. I really should have used something beefier from the start as most accessories are probably grounded via it, or maybe not, as everything can flow via the firewall and engine block if the starter ground is connected.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Gary. We had planned to finally go to Atlanta, but the bookshelves at IKEA aren't in stock. So nothing special planned now, just a drive longer than the 10 mile run today.

Jim, the starter ground is connected to the frame along the way, but not being connected to the starter, made that irrelevant. Nothing is really grounded on the frame in my truck anyway. So the only real return route for any electricity was via that skinny wire. I really should have used something beefier from the start as most accessories are probably grounded via it, or maybe not, as everything can flow via the firewall and engine block if the starter ground is connected.

I'm not sure why Ford chose to run the ground to a starter bolt on the 300, but it seems to make more sense than attaching it to the right front corner of the block (a'la V-8)

The Big Box store of Big Boxes is always a good reason to bring a pickup!

(You can have some lingonberry jam on your Swedish meatballs while you're there. )

I've picked up a few kitchens that I couldn't even fit in my truck.(without any appliances)

 

[Sac79]

I'm not sure why Ford chose to run the ground to a starter bolt on the 300, but it seems to make more sense than attaching it to the right front corner of the block (a'la V-8)

The Big Box store of Big Boxes is always a good reason to bring a pickup!

(You can have some lingonberry jam on your Swedish meatballs while you're there. )

I've picked up a few kitchens that I couldn't even fit in my truck.(without any appliances)

So last weekend's longer run annoyingly resulted in a not so bone dry oil pan...

It's not nearly as bad as before. I assume it's the pan gasket and not the balancer seal or anything else. So, with it not being too bad, we went to Atlanta this past weekend. The 260 odd mile trip dropped the level on the dipstick about 1/8 to 1/4 inches. Not ideal, but I don't feel like doing the gasket again right now.

Gas mileage wasn't great. Going there at 65-67Mph returned 13.5Mpg, coming back at a more sedate 60-62Mph got 15Mpg. All interstate.

I still have a seeping rear pinion on the transfer case, but with the oil pan, that's no longer a concern.

And the right front has a fairly predictable 'knock'. Sometimes under breaking just before coming to a stop and every time I back down my driveway around a corner, mid turn, like clockwork. I can't imagine what it would be, I thought maybe the sway bar hitting the bracket it's attached too, but don't see why that would happen under braking?

The biggest annoyance though is the wind noise at anything over 45Mph, and it's air coming into the cab, not just air being disturbed outside. I'm going to try tape over the seams someday soon to see which areas are the biggest culprits.

Lastly, I replaced the ground to the fender and then added a couple of 'mini BB' grounds between the fenders and the firewall. And I'm following Dave's AFR install as I might still want to do the same.

[Bruce moose4x4]

So last weekend's longer run annoyingly resulted in a not so bone dry oil pan...

It's not nearly as bad as before. I assume it's the pan gasket and not the balancer seal or anything else. So, with it not being too bad, we went to Atlanta this past weekend. The 260 odd mile trip dropped the level on the dipstick about 1/8 to 1/4 inches. Not ideal, but I don't feel like doing the gasket again right now.

Gas mileage wasn't great. Going there at 65-67Mph returned 13.5Mpg, coming back at a more sedate 60-62Mph got 15Mpg. All interstate.

I still have a seeping rear pinion on the transfer case, but with the oil pan, that's no longer a concern.

And the right front has a fairly predictable 'knock'. Sometimes under breaking just before coming to a stop and every time I back down my driveway around a corner, mid turn, like clockwork. I can't imagine what it would be, I thought maybe the sway bar hitting the bracket it's attached too, but don't see why that would happen under braking?

The biggest annoyance though is the wind noise at anything over 45Mph, and it's air coming into the cab, not just air being disturbed outside. I'm going to try tape over the seams someday soon to see which areas are the biggest culprits.

Lastly, I replaced the ground to the fender and then added a couple of 'mini BB' grounds between the fenders and the firewall. And I'm following Dave's AFR install as I might still want to do the same.

I put a set of these Standard performance wires on my Bronco last time. Really pleased with them. Here is a set for your truck. They have ceramic boots.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/blue-streak-wire--fmnx--5909/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-wire-set-12534/9d7639b409b3/standard-ignition-blue-streak-wire-fmnx-spark-plug-wire-set/10045/6235511?q=10045&pos=0

 

[Gary Lewis]

So last weekend's longer run annoyingly resulted in a not so bone dry oil pan...

It's not nearly as bad as before. I assume it's the pan gasket and not the balancer seal or anything else. So, with it not being too bad, we went to Atlanta this past weekend. The 260 odd mile trip dropped the level on the dipstick about 1/8 to 1/4 inches. Not ideal, but I don't feel like doing the gasket again right now.

Gas mileage wasn't great. Going there at 65-67Mph returned 13.5Mpg, coming back at a more sedate 60-62Mph got 15Mpg. All interstate.

I still have a seeping rear pinion on the transfer case, but with the oil pan, that's no longer a concern.

And the right front has a fairly predictable 'knock'. Sometimes under breaking just before coming to a stop and every time I back down my driveway around a corner, mid turn, like clockwork. I can't imagine what it would be, I thought maybe the sway bar hitting the bracket it's attached too, but don't see why that would happen under braking?

The biggest annoyance though is the wind noise at anything over 45Mph, and it's air coming into the cab, not just air being disturbed outside. I'm going to try tape over the seams someday soon to see which areas are the biggest culprits.

Lastly, I replaced the ground to the fender and then added a couple of 'mini BB' grounds between the fenders and the firewall. And I'm following Dave's AFR install as I might still want to do the same.

That's a bummer about the oil pan leaking.

On the t-case seal, that's a really easy job. Just did it myself.

As for the mini-BB grounds, I like them. Should bond everything together nicely.

On the knock, have you checked the radius arm bushings? They'll give a thump or knock on braking or bumps, and probably on certain turns.