grumpin Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 Eddy looks great, Rob! 😍 I actually prefer the look of #1. While I don't understand why it is different than the other five, I would probably be poking around with my non-contact thermometer, or putting hotter plugs in all except for #1. Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted November 15, 2020 Author Share Posted November 15, 2020 Eddy looks great, Rob! 😍 I actually prefer the look of #1. While I don't understand why it is different than the other five, I would probably be poking around with my non-contact thermometer, or putting hotter plugs in all except for #1. Gary, sometime early December. The new muffler is a single chamber 'racing' muffler, so I'm definitely hesitant to make changes! Jim, I'll definitely poke around with the thermometer, thanks. So do you like the look of the left or right plug? Left is #1 and it looks the same as 2-5, #6 is the odd one out and the plug on the right. I like the fact that 6 is dry, but just a bit white on the electrode. 1-5 is brown/tan, but with moisture around the top of the threads... Thanks Dane. Plug wire recommendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 Gary, sometime early December. The new muffler is a single chamber 'racing' muffler, so I'm definitely hesitant to make changes! Jim, I'll definitely poke around with the thermometer, thanks. So do you like the look of the left or right plug? Left is #1 and it looks the same as 2-5, #6 is the odd one out and the plug on the right. I like the fact that 6 is dry, but just a bit white on the electrode. 1-5 is brown/tan, but with moisture around the top of the threads... Thanks Dane. Plug wire recommendations? You may come to dislike that muffler, and I'd not change it before the trip. I went with the longest Magnaflows my shop could get and even they have a resonant spot at ~1800 RPM. On the plug wires, I don't have a favorite. Most of them are pretty good any more, but if I were buying I think I'd look at a name brand - like Motorcraft. As for the plugs, and I know the question wasn't to me, but I think #6 is too lean. I like to have some color on my plugs, and tan is preferable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 Gary, sometime early December. The new muffler is a single chamber 'racing' muffler, so I'm definitely hesitant to make changes! Jim, I'll definitely poke around with the thermometer, thanks. So do you like the look of the left or right plug? Left is #1 and it looks the same as 2-5, #6 is the odd one out and the plug on the right. I like the fact that 6 is dry, but just a bit white on the electrode. 1-5 is brown/tan, but with moisture around the top of the threads... Thanks Dane. Plug wire recommendations? I have Motorcraft plug wires from U-techcenter but I prefer the NAPA Belden premium plug wires from NAPA. The one plug seems right, the rest seem dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 I have Motorcraft plug wires from U-techcenter but I prefer the NAPA Belden premium plug wires from NAPA. The one plug seems right, the rest seem dirty. I'll consult my engine builder for a tiebreaker on the plugs... I'll look for a non-Chinese set of wires, although even name brands are probably from there now. My fix appears to have been successful, so I have a little time to come up with a choice. And yes, I'm fully prepared to not like the muffler, but it was cheap and being short, any change to a larger unit would just require cutting down the intermediate pipe. But yes, I'm 99.99% going to wait until we return from our trip before trying it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 I'll consult my engine builder for a tiebreaker on the plugs... I'll look for a non-Chinese set of wires, although even name brands are probably from there now. My fix appears to have been successful, so I have a little time to come up with a choice. And yes, I'm fully prepared to not like the muffler, but it was cheap and being short, any change to a larger unit would just require cutting down the intermediate pipe. But yes, I'm 99.99% going to wait until we return from our trip before trying it. Sorry for the confusion on the plugs... With a new engine it will take a while for all the cylinders to seal. Check out the NAPA Belden premium + plug wires. I've been very happy with them in the past. Looking forward to your trip report. Have a great time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 Sorry for the confusion on the plugs... With a new engine it will take a while for all the cylinders to seal. Check out the NAPA Belden premium + plug wires. I've been very happy with them in the past. Looking forward to your trip report. Have a great time! OK, quick update. The trip hasn't happened as my oil leak has gotten worse. Yes, worse now than before I changed the pan gasket... Before it would leak more once I parked up, now it appears to be doing it as I'm driving. I made this observation by looking at the puddles... Might not be conclusive evidence, since I wiped everything down both times that I've gone for a drive since I noticed the leak and everything remained dry while being parked. I never really cleaned it up before changing the gasket, so those delayed puddles might have been from oil already on the outside... Anyway, the pan gasket is dry except for the spot at the front bottom lip. It just drips down from there onto the drag link and axle housings. I have convinced myself that it might be the timing cover seal, due to a slight wobble in the balancer. So I ordered and received a new balancer(that I should have changed out when putting everything together:nabble_smiley_angry:) and timing cover seal and gasket, as well as a new gasket for the pan... If I find it is the timing cover seal, does the pan have to come off? Of course the timing cover and pan joins together, so I'm thinking it probably does, but just hoping as they only provide the front gasket piece with the timing cover kit... Anyway, this will probably have to wait until the new year. I'm going for another test drive on Friday, to see how much oil it loses. On the very first drive after the gasket change, I didn't notice anything. On the next drive the drag link was covered in oil and the dip stick level dropped a good 1/4 inch(from above safe to the top of safe). The one after, the level did not drop, but there was as much oil on the drag link and axle housings. Depending on what I find, we might drive to Atlanta this weekend. If we go, the new console should get a good workout... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmboy60 Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 I certainly hope so Gary. As for the fast idle, that is how I understood your explanation the first time, but mine does not require any input from the throttle. The fast idle cam activates the throttle as you work the choke cable, it is not affected by gravity or anything other than the position of the choke. That's why I can modulate the throttle with the choke without any throttle input. I'll take a picture, although a video will probably be better. I'll just show you next year! OK, some more updates. I had planned on getting a used rim and tire for a spare, but the shop with used tires proved useless. Couldn't even do the alignment on my truck, apparently to old for their machine?! So I ate humble pie and returned to my usual shop and had them check the alignment(which turns out to be free) - the toe was perfect, or just about, -1/32" and +1/32", so the toe plates worked. The camber is +2.4deg on the driver's side and +1.8 on the passenger's. +1.8deg is the limit according to their machine, but the bushing only has 1/4deg of adjustment left and the passenger's side is maxed out. So I told them to leave it and I'm looking for bushings with more adjustment. The current ones go up to 3.5deg. Since the alignment check was free(it would have been $90 had they done any adjustment) I had them remove my old tires. I got a 31x10.5x15 from Walmart and mounted it on one of the stock wheels. Free to a good home... The spare is about 1/2" shy on radius, but close enough for an emergency spare. I also installed the 'carpet bracket'. With the seat all the way back, there is a nice flat shelf now. And the carpet fits as it should. And I got these. I was thinking about nerf bars and I'm regretting getting rid of the running boards, but I'm happy with these. And a little insert of weatherstripping courtesy of Gary! And a tonneau cover. It fits pretty well. And the window wind deflectors. I haven't checked my work(leaks) yet as I'm prepping the truck for polish and we've had some wet weather and I didn't want to wash it again. Used a clay bar this afternoon and it's shocking how rough the surfaces were. Tomorrow I'll buff out a few scratches and then take a test drive to check for leaks. i could use the rims how much for shipping to central ny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 OK, quick update. The trip hasn't happened as my oil leak has gotten worse. Yes, worse now than before I changed the pan gasket... Before it would leak more once I parked up, now it appears to be doing it as I'm driving. I made this observation by looking at the puddles... Might not be conclusive evidence, since I wiped everything down both times that I've gone for a drive since I noticed the leak and everything remained dry while being parked. I never really cleaned it up before changing the gasket, so those delayed puddles might have been from oil already on the outside... Anyway, the pan gasket is dry except for the spot at the front bottom lip. It just drips down from there onto the drag link and axle housings. I have convinced myself that it might be the timing cover seal, due to a slight wobble in the balancer. So I ordered and received a new balancer(that I should have changed out when putting everything together:nabble_smiley_angry:) and timing cover seal and gasket, as well as a new gasket for the pan... If I find it is the timing cover seal, does the pan have to come off? Of course the timing cover and pan joins together, so I'm thinking it probably does, but just hoping as they only provide the front gasket piece with the timing cover kit... Anyway, this will probably have to wait until the new year. I'm going for another test drive on Friday, to see how much oil it loses. On the very first drive after the gasket change, I didn't notice anything. On the next drive the drag link was covered in oil and the dip stick level dropped a good 1/4 inch(from above safe to the top of safe). The one after, the level did not drop, but there was as much oil on the drag link and axle housings. Depending on what I find, we might drive to Atlanta this weekend. If we go, the new console should get a good workout... Rob - That's a bummer! I don't know if the pan doesn't need to come off to change the timing cover on a 300. It doesn't on the V8's, I just don't about the six. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 OK, quick update. The trip hasn't happened as my oil leak has gotten worse. Yes, worse now than before I changed the pan gasket... Before it would leak more once I parked up, now it appears to be doing it as I'm driving. I made this observation by looking at the puddles... Might not be conclusive evidence, since I wiped everything down both times that I've gone for a drive since I noticed the leak and everything remained dry while being parked. I never really cleaned it up before changing the gasket, so those delayed puddles might have been from oil already on the outside... Anyway, the pan gasket is dry except for the spot at the front bottom lip. It just drips down from there onto the drag link and axle housings. I have convinced myself that it might be the timing cover seal, due to a slight wobble in the balancer. So I ordered and received a new balancer(that I should have changed out when putting everything together:nabble_smiley_angry:) and timing cover seal and gasket, as well as a new gasket for the pan... If I find it is the timing cover seal, does the pan have to come off? Of course the timing cover and pan joins together, so I'm thinking it probably does, but just hoping as they only provide the front gasket piece with the timing cover kit... Anyway, this will probably have to wait until the new year. I'm going for another test drive on Friday, to see how much oil it loses. On the very first drive after the gasket change, I didn't notice anything. On the next drive the drag link was covered in oil and the dip stick level dropped a good 1/4 inch(from above safe to the top of safe). The one after, the level did not drop, but there was as much oil on the drag link and axle housings. Depending on what I find, we might drive to Atlanta this weekend. If we go, the new console should get a good workout... I usually buy the FMS -kit- with a Speedisleeve as a matter of course. But if you've bought a new balancer you'll have no grooves worn in it where the seal rides. Remember to lube the lips of the seal before installation. They don't do well if started dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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