Gary Lewis Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 I finally checked my timing again with the light. More successful this time. I made more marks all the way across the balancer/damper and removed the cold air duct from the snorkel for a better line of sight. Clear as day, 14 deg BTC or there about, in hindsight I should have marked the gauge better too. So I backed it off to about 10 or 11, again, I should have marked the gauge as well. I then checked the 'starting speed' and it cranked up immediately, faster than it's ever done, at least since I've acquired it in '13! So I proceeded to attempt to tune the carb with the vacuum gauge again. Vacuum dropped to around 16 with the timing change... So I had to dial it a bit richer and got it back up to 20. Maybe it was running too lean before anyway? The engine idles way smoother now, as in a lot less vibration and steadier, less 'rev waving'. I'll probably take it to the engine builder next week and have him check it over. One question, fast idle, if I have a manual choke, is fast idle only active with the choke on? Also, after thinking the same mechanic worked on my truck as BB with leaks at both ends of the rear driveshaft(through the splines I suspect, the pinion seals are dry), they now appear to be dissipating... Magically? The rear pinion and U-joints are dry and no evidence on the floor. The front had a quarter sized puddle/drop of ATF on the floor after a week, before it was more like a pancake size! Still, I have the leaky pan gasket waiting for me... Progress! Well done! Yes, fast idle only works when the choke is on, automatic or manual. But I don't know why a leak would dry up if it is along the splines. However, BB's leak through the splines is my fault, so I doubt that's the reason for your leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 But I don't know why a leak would dry up if it is along the splines. However, BB's leak through the splines is my fault, so I doubt that's the reason for your leak. Yeah, and my leak is my fault... Not sure why it's drying up either, surely it's not the fluid level. Both the diff and TC was properly filled and neither has leaked more than a few ounces. But I'm pretty sure it's coming from the splines. I think I remember reading somewhere along BB's thread about applying grease to the splines. One of Jim's comments. Am I remembering that right? Might have been different splines. Anyway, no grease applied to my splines... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 But I don't know why a leak would dry up if it is along the splines. However, BB's leak through the splines is my fault, so I doubt that's the reason for your leak. Yeah, and my leak is my fault... Not sure why it's drying up either, surely it's not the fluid level. Both the diff and TC was properly filled and neither has leaked more than a few ounces. But I'm pretty sure it's coming from the splines. I think I remember reading somewhere along BB's thread about applying grease to the splines. One of Jim's comments. Am I remembering that right? Might have been different splines. Anyway, no grease applied to my splines... Oh, and thanks for clarifying the fast idle. I've been using it wrong. Turning off the choke immediately after startup or even before starting and expecting fast idle until I used throttle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 Oh, and thanks for clarifying the fast idle. I've been using it wrong. Turning off the choke immediately after startup or even before starting and expecting fast idle until I used throttle... I looked for good illustrations for the fast idle mechanism but didn't find any. So let me describe it.... The fast idle cam is stepped and the steps hold the throttle open by virtue of the throttle linkage hitting the steps, usually via a screw. The cam is swung into action by the choke, but it cannot go under the screw until the throttle is opened. So the choke nor the fast idle can come into play until the throttle is opened slightly. Once the cam has been swung into play it is left there as the choke opens as the choke can only push it on, not pull it off. So if you start the vehicle the proper way, meaning set the choke and blip the throttle, the choke and fast idle will be on. However the choke can now come off, either as the engine warms or if the choke is manual by the cable being pushed. But as long as the throttle isn't opened the fast idle cam will still be under the screw, holding the throttle open slightly. So with your manual choke, if you'll pull the lever or knob all the way out and blip the throttle the fast idle cam will come under the throttle linkage. You can then push the knob/lever in and the fast idle cam should stay in place holding the throttle slightly open - until you manually depress the throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 I looked for good illustrations for the fast idle mechanism but didn't find any. So let me describe it.... The fast idle cam is stepped and the steps hold the throttle open by virtue of the throttle linkage hitting the steps, usually via a screw. The cam is swung into action by the choke, but it cannot go under the screw until the throttle is opened. So the choke nor the fast idle can come into play until the throttle is opened slightly. Once the cam has been swung into play it is left there as the choke opens as the choke can only push it on, not pull it off. So if you start the vehicle the proper way, meaning set the choke and blip the throttle, the choke and fast idle will be on. However the choke can now come off, either as the engine warms or if the choke is manual by the cable being pushed. But as long as the throttle isn't opened the fast idle cam will still be under the screw, holding the throttle open slightly. So with your manual choke, if you'll pull the lever or knob all the way out and blip the throttle the fast idle cam will come under the throttle linkage. You can then push the knob/lever in and the fast idle cam should stay in place holding the throttle slightly open - until you manually depress the throttle. OK, thanks Gary, got it, I think. I'll pay closer attention to my actions next time I try a cold start-up. So far I've had to use more throttle to get it to start which probably negated the fast idle. But I've played with the choke after startup and noticed the fast idle coming on. So in theory I could activate the fast idle at any time by pulling/activating the choke and blipping the throttle? I could then deactivate the choke immediately and the fast idle should stay on until I blip the throttle again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 OK, thanks Gary, got it, I think. I'll pay closer attention to my actions next time I try a cold start-up. So far I've had to use more throttle to get it to start which probably negated the fast idle. But I've played with the choke after startup and noticed the fast idle coming on. So in theory I could activate the fast idle at any time by pulling/activating the choke and blipping the throttle? I could then deactivate the choke immediately and the fast idle should stay on until I blip the throttle again? Yes, you are correct - assuming your choke is set up properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 Yes, you are correct - assuming your choke is set up properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted November 12, 2020 Author Share Posted November 12, 2020 OK, some updates. I went by the engine builder again a few weeks ago. We first retarded the timing a bit more to about 8-9*, then he tuned the idle mixture using the timing light which was equipped with a digital rev gauge. Idle speed set at 640Rpm. I think the timing should probably go back to about 10* though, as I've noticed a slight(barely noticeable) stutter under mild acceleration in 4th. Gary - I investigated the fast idle and it appears to be tied directly to the choke. It does appear to be as designed, not sure why it is different from how you described it. I adjusted it and it now works well, but as I say only with the choke, though it has a nice range from about 1400Rpm with the choke fully engaged to about 800Rpm before it's fully open. I also added some goodies recently - I'll post pictures later. And then yesterday I started addressing leaks. First the coolant leak, which required draining a little(I used a transfer pump instead) and then attempting to seal the plug on the thermostat housing. Hopefully I was successful and that was the only leak... And then the oil pan... Nightmare! Started bad with a seal that did not want to break. By looking at the gasket pieces, it appears it only really leaked through the bolt holes as the inner portion of the gasket was soaked and the outer edge dry... Anyway, got the pan loose, gaskets off, surfaces clean and then the real nightmare started! I was having a bear of a time getting the new seal to stay in place and then to top it off I dropped one of those retainer pins in the pan! Quit for the day last night and got some more supplies this morning. A retrieval tool from Walmart did the trick with the pin, and some Gasket sealer held the gasket in place. Unfortunately I had forgot to clean the RTV from the corners before throwing in the towel last night, so with RTV on top of RTV(I couldn't remove it from the seal) I'll probably be doing this job again, hopefully not. All done up now and I'll test everything this afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 OK, some updates. I went by the engine builder again a few weeks ago. We first retarded the timing a bit more to about 8-9*, then he tuned the idle mixture using the timing light which was equipped with a digital rev gauge. Idle speed set at 640Rpm. I think the timing should probably go back to about 10* though, as I've noticed a slight(barely noticeable) stutter under mild acceleration in 4th. Gary - I investigated the fast idle and it appears to be tied directly to the choke. It does appear to be as designed, not sure why it is different from how you described it. I adjusted it and it now works well, but as I say only with the choke, though it has a nice range from about 1400Rpm with the choke fully engaged to about 800Rpm before it's fully open. I also added some goodies recently - I'll post pictures later. And then yesterday I started addressing leaks. First the coolant leak, which required draining a little(I used a transfer pump instead) and then attempting to seal the plug on the thermostat housing. Hopefully I was successful and that was the only leak... And then the oil pan... Nightmare! Started bad with a seal that did not want to break. By looking at the gasket pieces, it appears it only really leaked through the bolt holes as the inner portion of the gasket was soaked and the outer edge dry... Anyway, got the pan loose, gaskets off, surfaces clean and then the real nightmare started! I was having a bear of a time getting the new seal to stay in place and then to top it off I dropped one of those retainer pins in the pan! Quit for the day last night and got some more supplies this morning. A retrieval tool from Walmart did the trick with the pin, and some Gasket sealer held the gasket in place. Unfortunately I had forgot to clean the RTV from the corners before throwing in the towel last night, so with RTV on top of RTV(I couldn't remove it from the seal) I'll probably be doing this job again, hopefully not. All done up now and I'll test everything this afternoon. Progress is good ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 Progress is good ! Rob - Here's hoping that the RTV on RTV holds. I'll bet it will. On the fast idle, I probably did a poor job of 'splaining. The fast idle is pushed on by the choke, but it comes off with gravity. So as the choke comes off so should the fast idle - but only after the tension is taken off it from the throttle return spring. So if you open the throttle with the engine cold the choke and fast idle will set. And when you release the throttle the fast idle is held captive until you open the throttle again and take the pressure off. Then, if the choke has opened some, the fast idle cam will drop down and you'll have less fast idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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