Eddy Myrtle

[Gary Lewis]

I had a neighbor over yesterday to help me bleed the brakes, I just couldn't get it firm with the 'one man' tool. The pedal feel is good now, but unrelated, the rotors have been tight from the start. As in difficult to turn by hand. With the wheels on it was easier and they would continue to rotate about half a turn or so without assistance. The truck also rolls easily. I'm sure I remember being able to spin the rotors by hand. Is it a case of new rotors and pads maxing out the space available in the caliper and it will have clearance after initial use, or is something wrong?

Last night I received the lugnuts and installed the wheels. I eyeballed the 'toe' alignment and planned on getting to the tire shop first thing this morning. But I had a bad experience with them mounting the tires and truthfully I don't want anyone else behind the wheel of Eddy...

The guy wanted to charge me over $120 to mount the 4 tires when I usually pay $15 per tire. When I mentioned that he looked perplexed and said he would do me a deal for $100... This was after the tires were mounted, if it happened before I would probably have left. I've done business with them before and have usually been happy, but not this time.

So anyway, I ordered a DIY kit and will attempt to align the tires myself. Eyeballing isn't enough as I found after changing the steering components on my Toyota and going through the front tires in less than 10000 miles!

So with plans changed, I went to get the last couple of vacuum hoses this morning. It still looks kind of busy, but a lot less than before. I guess I could try to tidy up the nest on the passenger fender liner... But either way, I can at least identify everything and know each individual component's purpose.

So with that done, I pulled out of the garage and drove the 7 miles to the gas station with ethanol free. I did a bit of 'bedding' on the brakes. But not easy to do when it takes so long and far to get up to 45MPH... The engine is really quiet even with the window open. I only had wind noise, unfortunately I had left the footwell vents open so even with the window closed there was wind noise... I'll test the cab insulation next time. The next thing I noticed was the weird stutter/vibration in 4th gear. I thought the tires were seriously unbalanced at first. It started at around 30-35MPH and would continue to about 45-50. But if I dropped to third it would be fine, not that I could test 3rd past 40, but it wouldn't do it at the speed that it would in 4th. It would also smooth out if I wasn't trying to accelerate. And then at 50 it would smooth out regardless.

Anyway, I got to the gas station(with the gauge showing right on empty, but with about 6.5 gallons in it) and filled the two cans I used earlier in the month and the tank. The gas was from my yard equipment stash so needed to be topped up. I got 22.5 gallons, so I used roughly 3.5 idling a few times and driving 7 miles... I did idle nearly 30min with the 'break-in' so it might not be that bad. I'll find out in a week or so. With the gauge reading above full I headed back home. Oh, and of course my odo and speedo is off. I'll look into getting that adjusted later. Anyway, heading home I noticed the Temp gauge reading a bit higher, closer to the 'A'. Maybe from sitting at the gas station with the engine off. Same issue in 4th gear coming back as well.

I then took a few pics. I'll get more on Sunday when it isn't raining and I've washed Eddy.

Congrat's!!!

Such a good feeling when you finally get to drive it. And there's always something or somethings, plural, that need to be ironed out.

I think the engine compartment looks great. Not busy at all.

As for the vibration in 4th, I'm guessing an ignition problem. Like a bad wired or a bad plug. Or a wire that's not on fully. I say that because when you are in 4th at low speeds and trying to accelerate you cause high pressure in the cylinders, which makes it hard for the spark to jump the gap in the plug. So the spark is looking for somewhere, anywhere to go and if there's a problem that's when it'll show up.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary. I had to start a new post, as the 'insert image' function starts to act up.

Yes, I read about the aluminum foil version a long time ago on FTE. I actually still have the Walmart foil I bought especially for the purpose, but then I read about the steel wool and since I also have some of that(000 grade) I tried it and I'm impressed. It seems it would be easier than foil, but can't say for sure since I haven't use the foil.

Here's a couple more pics of the camber of the front wheels. The suspension definitely evened out a lot. The driver's side is still a little off, but it does have a tiny bit more adjustment to go(I had to adjust them to get the hubs on). The passenger's side is maxed out for these bushings, but the angle looks acceptable to me. If the tires get eaten away in less than 5000 miles I'll look at options to fix it.

On the "Insert Image" acting up, do you mean that you can't see the whole of the pop-up? If that's the case hit Control+ (Control & plus) or Control- (Control & minus) at the same time. That changes the zoom for the screen either up or down and usually brings the pop-up into view.

I'm not very experienced with the alignment adjustments, so will let other comment on that.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I had a neighbor over yesterday to help me bleed the brakes, I just couldn't get it firm with the 'one man' tool. The pedal feel is good now, but unrelated, the rotors have been tight from the start. As in difficult to turn by hand. With the wheels on it was easier and they would continue to rotate about half a turn or so without assistance. The truck also rolls easily. I'm sure I remember being able to spin the rotors by hand. Is it a case of new rotors and pads maxing out the space available in the caliper and it will have clearance after initial use, or is something wrong?

Last night I received the lugnuts and installed the wheels. I eyeballed the 'toe' alignment and planned on getting to the tire shop first thing this morning. But I had a bad experience with them mounting the tires and truthfully I don't want anyone else behind the wheel of Eddy...

The guy wanted to charge me over $120 to mount the 4 tires when I usually pay $15 per tire. When I mentioned that he looked perplexed and said he would do me a deal for $100... This was after the tires were mounted, if it happened before I would probably have left. I've done business with them before and have usually been happy, but not this time.

So anyway, I ordered a DIY kit and will attempt to align the tires myself. Eyeballing isn't enough as I found after changing the steering components on my Toyota and going through the front tires in less than 10000 miles!

So with plans changed, I went to get the last couple of vacuum hoses this morning. It still looks kind of busy, but a lot less than before. I guess I could try to tidy up the nest on the passenger fender liner... But either way, I can at least identify everything and know each individual component's purpose.

So with that done, I pulled out of the garage and drove the 7 miles to the gas station with ethanol free. I did a bit of 'bedding' on the brakes. But not easy to do when it takes so long and far to get up to 45MPH... The engine is really quiet even with the window open. I only had wind noise, unfortunately I had left the footwell vents open so even with the window closed there was wind noise... I'll test the cab insulation next time. The next thing I noticed was the weird stutter/vibration in 4th gear. I thought the tires were seriously unbalanced at first. It started at around 30-35MPH and would continue to about 45-50. But if I dropped to third it would be fine, not that I could test 3rd past 40, but it wouldn't do it at the speed that it would in 4th. It would also smooth out if I wasn't trying to accelerate. And then at 50 it would smooth out regardless.

Anyway, I got to the gas station(with the gauge showing right on empty, but with about 6.5 gallons in it) and filled the two cans I used earlier in the month and the tank. The gas was from my yard equipment stash so needed to be topped up. I got 22.5 gallons, so I used roughly 3.5 idling a few times and driving 7 miles... I did idle nearly 30min with the 'break-in' so it might not be that bad. I'll find out in a week or so. With the gauge reading above full I headed back home. Oh, and of course my odo and speedo is off. I'll look into getting that adjusted later. Anyway, heading home I noticed the Temp gauge reading a bit higher, closer to the 'A'. Maybe from sitting at the gas station with the engine off. Same issue in 4th gear coming back as well.

I then took a few pics. I'll get more on Sunday when it isn't raining and I've washed Eddy.

Congratulations Rob!

The brakes are probably because yo retracted the pistons and the keystone section seal is flexed back instead of forward.

That seal is what retracts the piston when you let off the brake.

I always try to bottom them out when doing brake work, so the piston has to slip forward in the seal.

They're usually ok after that.

Was your hood aligned before?

You can drill right through the hinge plates, and use a close fitting punch to get it back to where it was on reassembly.

[Sac79]

On the "Insert Image" acting up, do you mean that you can't see the whole of the pop-up? If that's the case hit Control+ (Control & plus) or Control- (Control & minus) at the same time. That changes the zoom for the screen either up or down and usually brings the pop-up into view.

I'm not very experienced with the alignment adjustments, so will let other comment on that.

Ah, that makes sense about the ignition issue. I might take it to the engine builder and have him check things over. I guess it could also just still be the timing, I put a timing light on it earlier in the week, but the angle really isn't easy(and it's a HF light). So I couldn't tell what it was. I could tell it wasn't TDC or retarded, but not how advanced.

As for 'insert image', no, the pop-up just doesn't appear, as in the little square comes on and then nothing. Previewing the message fixes it, but then you have to scroll and reposition the cursor every time. It normally happens on about the 5th or 6th picture. And has done so ever since I've been posting... Maybe it's been telling me my posts are too long(or too many pictures)!

[Gary Lewis]

Ah, that makes sense about the ignition issue. I might take it to the engine builder and have him check things over. I guess it could also just still be the timing, I put a timing light on it earlier in the week, but the angle really isn't easy(and it's a HF light). So I couldn't tell what it was. I could tell it wasn't TDC or retarded, but not how advanced.

As for 'insert image', no, the pop-up just doesn't appear, as in the little square comes on and then nothing. Previewing the message fixes it, but then you have to scroll and reposition the cursor every time. It normally happens on about the 5th or 6th picture. And has done so ever since I've been posting... Maybe it's been telling me my posts are too long(or too many pictures)!

Interesting. 5th or 6th picture? I'll have to try that.

[Sac79]

Congratulations Rob!

The brakes are probably because yo retracted the pistons and the keystone section seal is flexed back instead of forward.

That seal is what retracts the piston when you let off the brake.

I always try to bottom them out when doing brake work, so the piston has to slip forward in the seal.

They're usually ok after that.

Was your hood aligned before?

You can drill right through the hinge plates, and use a close fitting punch to get it back to where it was on reassembly.

I had to bottom out the calipers to get them and the pads on the rotors. I used a piece of 2x4 and C-clamp. Regardless, you're saying something is wrong and I either need to replace the seal or whole caliper(I'll probably do the latter). The calipers do retract though. As in if you apply the brakes, you can't turn the wheel(I couldn't see any movement of the pads, but there was obviously braking force), you can as soon as the brakes are released. I tested it while doing the bleeding. I did not think to touch the rotors today after driving. My neighbor thought they would get hot from constant contact. I thought they would wear quickly enough to not be an issue... Not knowing what the issue was, hopeful more than anything else.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I had to bottom out the calipers to get them and the pads on the rotors. I used a piece of 2x4 and C-clamp. Regardless, you're saying something is wrong and I either need to replace the seal or whole caliper(I'll probably do the latter). The calipers do retract though. As in if you apply the brakes, you can't turn the wheel(I couldn't see any movement of the pads, but there was obviously braking force), you can as soon as the brakes are released. I tested it while doing the bleeding. I did not think to touch the rotors today after driving. My neighbor thought they would get hot from constant contact. I thought they would wear quickly enough to not be an issue... Not knowing what the issue was, hopeful more than anything else.

No, there's no issue.

The calipers are self adjusting.

The pads only need a thoundnth of an inch not to wear (if the rotor is true)

If you can turn the rotor by hand, gas generation will give the pads a 'cushion' to float on.

Check the hub or lugs for heat after a drive.

If they're not sizzling you're pretty much ok.

[Sac79]

No, there's no issue.

The calipers are self adjusting.

The pads only need a thoundnth of an inch not to wear (if the rotor is true)

If you can turn the rotor by hand, gas generation will give the pads a 'cushion' to float on.

Check the hub or lugs for heat after a drive.

If they're not sizzling you're pretty much ok.

That's great, exactly what I was hoping for Jim. I'll check the temperature next time I take it for a drive.

Gary, I checked my plugs and wires and found at least two wires that weren't as far on as they can be. I also pulled all the plugs and unfortunately found this on all of them...

They're all pretty black with a coat of oil around the rim. I've done some reading and either all my valves are leaking(doubtful but possible) or the rings are still being seated, hopefully the latter. I'm going over to the engine builder on Monday to hear his opinion and have him take a look.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's great, exactly what I was hoping for Jim. I'll check the temperature next time I take it for a drive.

Gary, I checked my plugs and wires and found at least two wires that weren't as far on as they can be. I also pulled all the plugs and unfortunately found this on all of them...

They're all pretty black with a coat of oil around the rim. I've done some reading and either all my valves are leaking(doubtful but possible) or the rings are still being seated, hopefully the latter. I'm going over to the engine builder on Monday to hear his opinion and have him take a look.

Drive it like you stole it.

You need to put plenty of pressure on those new rings to get them to wear in.

Dyno pulls are always nice but not all of us have the facilities or cash.

[Gary Lewis]

That's great, exactly what I was hoping for Jim. I'll check the temperature next time I take it for a drive.

Gary, I checked my plugs and wires and found at least two wires that weren't as far on as they can be. I also pulled all the plugs and unfortunately found this on all of them...

They're all pretty black with a coat of oil around the rim. I've done some reading and either all my valves are leaking(doubtful but possible) or the rings are still being seated, hopefully the latter. I'm going over to the engine builder on Monday to hear his opinion and have him take a look.

I agree with Jim. It is doubtful the rings are fully seated. But even if they are the carbon can be leftover from before. Anyway, glad you found the wires that were fully seated.