Eddy Myrtle

[Sac79]

I put a set of these Standard performance wires on my Bronco last time. Really pleased with them. Here is a set for your truck. They have ceramic boots.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/blue-streak-wire--fmnx--5909/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-wire-set-12534/9d7639b409b3/standard-ignition-blue-streak-wire-fmnx-spark-plug-wire-set/10045/6235511?q=10045&pos=0

Thanks Bruce, I'll keep them in mind for the future. I've already acquired a set of NGK wires though. I haven't installed them yet and probably won't until I change the plugs again.

[Sac79]

That's a bummer about the oil pan leaking.

On the t-case seal, that's a really easy job. Just did it myself.

As for the mini-BB grounds, I like them. Should bond everything together nicely.

On the knock, have you checked the radius arm bushings? They'll give a thump or knock on braking or bumps, and probably on certain turns.

Yes Gary, I'm pretty disappointed with the oil pan leak. I think my pan might be deformed on the front lip. Can't see why else it would continue to leak. The rubber gasket is pretty fool proof. I'll definitely be using more RTV next time, if not only RTV.

I already attempted the pinion leak repair with some thread sealant and it held up for a short while. I guess I need something better. The rubber 'grommet/washer/seal thingy' is obviously worn. I'll do some research and see if I can find a replacement. The leak is tiny compared to the pan, so for now, it's not bothering me.

All the bushings are new, but I should probably go over everything to make sure all the nuts and bolts are still torqued.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes Gary, I'm pretty disappointed with the oil pan leak. I think my pan might be deformed on the front lip. Can't see why else it would continue to leak. The rubber gasket is pretty fool proof. I'll definitely be using more RTV next time, if not only RTV.

I already attempted the pinion leak repair with some thread sealant and it held up for a short while. I guess I need something better. The rubber 'grommet/washer/seal thingy' is obviously worn. I'll do some research and see if I can find a replacement. The leak is tiny compared to the pan, so for now, it's not bothering me.

All the bushings are new, but I should probably go over everything to make sure all the nuts and bolts are still torqued.

On the t-case, did you coat the splines with RTV before installing the yoke? That's necessary on the front yoke given its lower position with respect to the lube, and is shown in the shop manual as a needed step. But while it doesn't show in the shop manual for the rear yoke it is still possible for oil to seep out there.

And, did you replace the seal itself? Torque King is my go-to place for seals and other t-case parts.

[Sac79]

On the t-case, did you coat the splines with RTV before installing the yoke? That's necessary on the front yoke given its lower position with respect to the lube, and is shown in the shop manual as a needed step. But while it doesn't show in the shop manual for the rear yoke it is still possible for oil to seep out there.

And, did you replace the seal itself? Torque King is my go-to place for seals and other t-case parts.

Can't believe I haven't updated this thread in more than a year!

As mentioned on the main page I just did the pan gasket and timing cover seal again. Upon today's inspection everything around the pan still appears dry. I'll definitely do more runs this week, so hopefully that remains the case.

To recap the last 12 months, I ran the truck with the leak mentioned in the posts above until somewhere after October. Can't remember exactly when, but I attempted a RTV only solution which was a catastrophic fail. Of course it leaked from the front(since we now know the timing cover seal was ultimately responsible), but oil just poured out from the back as the gap is larger around the rear main seal.

The fact that RTV couldn't seal the front area, made me suspect the timing cover seal. But I was dreading doing that again, so instead attempted a 4-piece gasket(a Felpro performance set) again. Which leaked within a day and led me to the last few days. I had planned on going with another 4 piece set(original cork version), but a last second change of plan led to the one piece.

So I started the rebuild with the 4-piece supplied in the kit, changed to a 1-piece, replaced that again in addition to the timing cover seal, tried RTV only, back to a 4-piece and finally, hopefully for the last time back to a 1-piece and a correctly installed timing cover seal!

[Sac79]

Can't believe I haven't updated this thread in more than a year!

As mentioned on the main page I just did the pan gasket and timing cover seal again. Upon today's inspection everything around the pan still appears dry. I'll definitely do more runs this week, so hopefully that remains the case.

To recap the last 12 months, I ran the truck with the leak mentioned in the posts above until somewhere after October. Can't remember exactly when, but I attempted a RTV only solution which was a catastrophic fail. Of course it leaked from the front(since we now know the timing cover seal was ultimately responsible), but oil just poured out from the back as the gap is larger around the rear main seal.

The fact that RTV couldn't seal the front area, made me suspect the timing cover seal. But I was dreading doing that again, so instead attempted a 4-piece gasket(a Felpro performance set) again. Which leaked within a day and led me to the last few days. I had planned on going with another 4 piece set(original cork version), but a last second change of plan led to the one piece.

So I started the rebuild with the 4-piece supplied in the kit, changed to a 1-piece, replaced that again in addition to the timing cover seal, tried RTV only, back to a 4-piece and finally, hopefully for the last time back to a 1-piece and a correctly installed timing cover seal!

I have done a few other things as well. I think I got the transfer case sorted, it just needed the RTV as Gary mentioned. But I still have a brake fluid leak from the rear 'split' fitting. I've tried re-tightening it many times to no avail. But it's small enough that it isn't giving me sleepless nights.

[Sac79]

I have done a few other things as well. I think I got the transfer case sorted, it just needed the RTV as Gary mentioned. But I still have a brake fluid leak from the rear 'split' fitting. I've tried re-tightening it many times to no avail. But it's small enough that it isn't giving me sleepless nights.

I inquired about the gauges at some point and did make some progress there. I replaced the ICVR with one from my backup instrument cluster. I decided against the upgrade for now. I swapped out the coolant temp and oil pressure gauges and replaced the oil pressure sender, with some difficulty. I had a bear of a time to get the old sender off. I bought special skinny wrenches that simply stripped the stud. I had to use a big v-groove set of pliers in the end. Everything works as it should again though, so worth it.

I then added a Metermatch to the fuel gauge.

The wiring was easy, getting the fuel tank empty, not so much... I drove around the neighborhood to no avail. I then thought about testing the 4wd since I hadn't since the rebuild.

This made me notice some weird characteristics. The front wheels don't always turn at the same speed... I guess it has something to do with the resistance in the shafts? To clarify, this is at idle in gear. Anyway, my truck was way to efficient with no wind resistance!:nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig: Eventually I saw bubbles in the fuel filter.

I shut it off there, added a gallon and set the metermatch to show empty. I then added 6 gallons and set it two about 1/3. Added another 6 and set it to 2/3. Then drove to Buc-ee's and filled up. I had hoped it would take another 6 gallons, alas it was less than 4... So with the 1 gallon expended to get to Buc-ee's, that meant I was only 3 short of full at 2/3. And I have 4 gallons left at empty!:nabble_head-slap-23_orig: I don't mind the 4 gallons at empty, but now my gauge essentially reads the same way it did before. Drops quickly and lingers down low forever. At least it's easy to adjust. Oh, and I know that my pickup tube is sucking air with 3 gallons in the tank...:nabble_smiley_unhappy:

[Gary Lewis]

I inquired about the gauges at some point and did make some progress there. I replaced the ICVR with one from my backup instrument cluster. I decided against the upgrade for now. I swapped out the coolant temp and oil pressure gauges and replaced the oil pressure sender, with some difficulty. I had a bear of a time to get the old sender off. I bought special skinny wrenches that simply stripped the stud. I had to use a big v-groove set of pliers in the end. Everything works as it should again though, so worth it.

I then added a Metermatch to the fuel gauge.

The wiring was easy, getting the fuel tank empty, not so much... I drove around the neighborhood to no avail. I then thought about testing the 4wd since I hadn't since the rebuild.

This made me notice some weird characteristics. The front wheels don't always turn at the same speed... I guess it has something to do with the resistance in the shafts? To clarify, this is at idle in gear. Anyway, my truck was way to efficient with no wind resistance!:nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig: Eventually I saw bubbles in the fuel filter.

I shut it off there, added a gallon and set the metermatch to show empty. I then added 6 gallons and set it two about 1/3. Added another 6 and set it to 2/3. Then drove to Buc-ee's and filled up. I had hoped it would take another 6 gallons, alas it was less than 4... So with the 1 gallon expended to get to Buc-ee's, that meant I was only 3 short of full at 2/3. And I have 4 gallons left at empty!:nabble_head-slap-23_orig: I don't mind the 4 gallons at empty, but now my gauge essentially reads the same way it did before. Drops quickly and lingers down low forever. At least it's easy to adjust. Oh, and I know that my pickup tube is sucking air with 3 gallons in the tank...:nabble_smiley_unhappy:

Do you have flare wrenches? Sometimes they are what's needed to get sending units off. But some sending units don't have a skinny spot where you can get the flare wrench on.

On the front wheels running at different speeds, that happens when the front brakes drag, and they do with the type of calipers these trucks have, which don't slide side/side very easily.

On the Meter Match, are you remembering to save the setting each time? Not that you'd miss that step, but I sure did. Several times.

[Sac79]

Do you have flare wrenches? Sometimes they are what's needed to get sending units off. But some sending units don't have a skinny spot where you can get the flare wrench on.

On the front wheels running at different speeds, that happens when the front brakes drag, and they do with the type of calipers these trucks have, which don't slide side/side very easily.

On the Meter Match, are you remembering to save the setting each time? Not that you'd miss that step, but I sure did. Several times.

A flare wrench would be perfect, but it would have to be skinny. The standard skinny I bought did this...

Makes sense about the brakes causing the drag. And yes, I saved the settings. I filled up this morning - the trip meter malfunctioning messed up my mileage documentation. I had only been writing down the trip distance. So to figure out the last trip I added all the miles and subtracted from the current odometer in addition to the starting reading. Got 200 miles from just over 10 gallons...:nabble_anim_confused: As nice as that would be, no way. So something went wrong somewhere, my tripmeter probably acted up somewhere before and I didn't notice it. Anyway, I'll be resetting the MM on this next tank. It's reading about 2/3 now and I've done about 50 miles, seems about right for 3.5ish gallons. I'll do another 20 miles then bump it back to 2/3.

Some other additions. I replaced the mirrors, I preferred the originals, but they wouldn't stay in place.

And then I stupidly drilled these holes before checking fitment of the seals...

So that's why it's all wonky, but they need to be so low to actually touch the cab. They do make a difference, not much at interstate speeds though.

[Gary Lewis]

A flare wrench would be perfect, but it would have to be skinny. The standard skinny I bought did this...

Makes sense about the brakes causing the drag. And yes, I saved the settings. I filled up this morning - the trip meter malfunctioning messed up my mileage documentation. I had only been writing down the trip distance. So to figure out the last trip I added all the miles and subtracted from the current odometer in addition to the starting reading. Got 200 miles from just over 10 gallons...:nabble_anim_confused: As nice as that would be, no way. So something went wrong somewhere, my tripmeter probably acted up somewhere before and I didn't notice it. Anyway, I'll be resetting the MM on this next tank. It's reading about 2/3 now and I've done about 50 miles, seems about right for 3.5ish gallons. I'll do another 20 miles then bump it back to 2/3.

Some other additions. I replaced the mirrors, I preferred the originals, but they wouldn't stay in place.

And then I stupidly drilled these holes before checking fitment of the seals...

So that's why it's all wonky, but they need to be so low to actually touch the cab. They do make a difference, not much at interstate speeds though.

Yes, that would have taken a skinny flair wrench.

And I doubt you got 20 MPG, so you did have a glitch somewhere. But you'll get it dialed in.

Mirrors look good. But the seal is, as you said, wonky. I thought they had adhesive on them?

[Sac79]

A flare wrench would be perfect, but it would have to be skinny. The standard skinny I bought did this...

Makes sense about the brakes causing the drag. And yes, I saved the settings. I filled up this morning - the trip meter malfunctioning messed up my mileage documentation. I had only been writing down the trip distance. So to figure out the last trip I added all the miles and subtracted from the current odometer in addition to the starting reading. Got 200 miles from just over 10 gallons...:nabble_anim_confused: As nice as that would be, no way. So something went wrong somewhere, my tripmeter probably acted up somewhere before and I didn't notice it. Anyway, I'll be resetting the MM on this next tank. It's reading about 2/3 now and I've done about 50 miles, seems about right for 3.5ish gallons. I'll do another 20 miles then bump it back to 2/3.

Some other additions. I replaced the mirrors, I preferred the originals, but they wouldn't stay in place.

And then I stupidly drilled these holes before checking fitment of the seals...

So that's why it's all wonky, but they need to be so low to actually touch the cab. They do make a difference, not much at interstate speeds though.

Oh, and I added the dash cover. That picture was taken with it just lying in place and before I removed the speaker cover.

And I changed out the exhaust at last. 2.5" throughout now, with a 'universal race muffler':nabble_smiley_what:

It's OK in moderation, a little loud at times, definitely drowns out the cheap 4" speakers next to my ears. But the wind noise still wins out on the Interstate. I would like to get another muffler to swap in when I feel like going for a less noticeable drive. Any recommendations? It would have to be 2.5" inlet/outlet on center to make swapping easy. Length less important as I can add a different intermediate pipe.

Lastly, I added a tow hitch yesterday(pics to follow). I haven't bought the ball or drop yet. Google comes back with 17" as a typical hitch height, thoughts? The bottom of my hitch tube currently sits at 16", so the bottom of the couple would be about 17, maybe a little over. I don't plan on using it much, I don't even have a trailer(otherwise I would of course set it up accordingly). I'll be borrowing my neighbors trailer when I buy a new mower. That's the only use I currently foresee.