Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

About a reliable ignition coil


Johns3524

Recommended Posts

I like to run manifold vacuum to my vacuum advance units. Therefore, not much advance while cranking or WOT. You dial that in with initial and mechanical. But the cruise advance is high . . . . great for MPGs!!

Dont forget the little inline vacuum restrict (VREST) or you will lose the overheat function of the three port thermal vacuum switch on the water neck.

I'm not really worried about what to do when mine fails.

I'll just dig under the seat for the nib spare and plug it in.

I don't even bother to bolt it into place until I get where I was going

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

No, the small-block version of the ZF5 has the internal slave while the big-block version has an external slave. Which reminds me, I'd better check that the one from the T-19 will work w/the ZF5.

Hmmm, I'm not sure I understand. But, I think it means that the T-19 and the ZF5 take the same slave: E3TZ 7A564-A.

Gary,

It works on both T-19 and Zf.

As you know I *just* replaced mine with an all metal unit from Amazon.

Never again the plastic crap with no real bleeder nipple.

But *now* I'm sitting on the late model one from the Superduty, which has a braided stainless hose and an aluminized heat boot.

Up for sale because I don't have room for spares anymore.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gary,

It works on both T-19 and Zf.

As you know I *just* replaced mine with an all metal unit from Amazon.

Never again the plastic crap with no real bleeder nipple.

But *now* I'm sitting on the late model one from the Superduty, which has a braided stainless hose and an aluminized heat boot.

Up for sale because I don't have room for spares anymore.

Jonathan - In my experience there’s usually very little max vacuum difference between manifold vacuum and the ported vacuum on most carbs. But many YFA’s, like David’s, don’t have a normal ported vacuum connection. Instead, it doesn’t ever reach the full vacuum of the manifold. And yet that’s what the vacuum advance was hooked to.

So when we connected the advance to manifold vacuum we had a lot more than previously, and we couldn’t get the vacuum advance dialed in like we wanted. Finally we had to go back to the “ported” connection.

Jim - Thanks. I toyed with buying that master/slave unit from you, but Big Blue’s is newish and I already have a ton (190 #, actually) coming from you so I didn’t. Good luck with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, my local warehouse had an FD476 Blue Streak made in Mexico so i bought one and put it on...it runs fine..

They had two in stock..so I may pick up the other as well. Thanks for the tip ardwrktrk and others who are still workin on their own..

An update:

After installing my new coil, I embarked on 30 mile round-trip journey. About halfway thru the outbound, the engine began to miss, and buck..etc.but would run at idle at low speed and so I ventured on. Getting to my destination, I switched out the spark box to the new motorcraft unit to see how it ran. It was better, but still had a misfire at about 1500 rpms and up. Upon returning home, I installed my old, greasy black junkyard canister coil, and it has been running great ever since. I did return the blue coil to the parts house and took in exchange another one...who knows maybe it would be a good spare.

So now I’m running an older coil, new motorcraft spark box, and it hasn’t missed a beat. So..best wishes to all who have fun working on what we drive. The answer, carry tools, spare parts, hand cleaner etc.

A93FAD3A-C4BE-4C7D-B5F8-CCB9899A5416.jpeg.8177f62f1063f337e97b282e3a75a10e.jpeg

CB73CBB7-4A16-4BB6-A55E-89AEF61835EE.jpeg.6a3ace5d069cab8c10101d0174a96800.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

An update:

After installing my new coil, I embarked on 30 mile round-trip journey. About halfway thru the outbound, the engine began to miss, and buck..etc.but would run at idle at low speed and so I ventured on. Getting to my destination, I switched out the spark box to the new motorcraft unit to see how it ran. It was better, but still had a misfire at about 1500 rpms and up. Upon returning home, I installed my old, greasy black junkyard canister coil, and it has been running great ever since. I did return the blue coil to the parts house and took in exchange another one...who knows maybe it would be a good spare.

So now I’m running an older coil, new motorcraft spark box, and it hasn’t missed a beat. So..best wishes to all who have fun working on what we drive. The answer, carry tools, spare parts, hand cleaner etc.

Sorry about that. But, at least you were carrying a spare coil and box. :nabble_smiley_good:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry about that. But, at least you were carrying a spare coil and box. :nabble_smiley_good:

It kinda reminds me of the 70,s When I drive Corvairs. You took a spare belt, fuel pump, carb, points, coil..and blower bearing/housing. I miss the simplicity of Corvair. If I ran into one that wasn’t rusted out, I’d probably drive one again. I love an opposed six. Oh well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It kinda reminds me of the 70,s When I drive Corvairs. You took a spare belt, fuel pump, carb, points, coil..and blower bearing/housing. I miss the simplicity of Corvair. If I ran into one that wasn’t rusted out, I’d probably drive one again. I love an opposed six. Oh well.

How 'bout a Subie? They make an opposed 6. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How 'bout a Subie? They make an opposed 6. :nabble_smiley_wink:

I’ve heard about that, bUt I’ve not looked at one. I guess those boxer motors are a popular swap in v-dub vans. I’ve haven’t been smitten with the body styles of subie’s I’ve seen but I haven’t looked closely either. My last Covairs we’re 66 Corsa’s. One four-carb, one 180 turbo. The 180 engine was in a box. But I had the parts, oh well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve heard about that, bUt I’ve not looked at one. I guess those boxer motors are a popular swap in v-dub vans. I’ve haven’t been smitten with the body styles of subie’s I’ve seen but I haven’t looked closely either. My last Covairs we’re 66 Corsa’s. One four-carb, one 180 turbo. The 180 engine was in a box. But I had the parts, oh well.

Yes, they are a popular swap into the VW. My nephew was working on one. Apparently they rotate backwards to the VW engine so the ring gear has to be flipped. And the radiator takes up the whole front end.

Anyway, we have a 2001 and it has 150K on the clock. Have had it since new and it has been a good vehicle. Some prob's, but none big.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

An update:

After installing my new coil, I embarked on 30 mile round-trip journey. About halfway thru the outbound, the engine began to miss, and buck..etc.but would run at idle at low speed and so I ventured on. Getting to my destination, I switched out the spark box to the new motorcraft unit to see how it ran. It was better, but still had a misfire at about 1500 rpms and up. Upon returning home, I installed my old, greasy black junkyard canister coil, and it has been running great ever since. I did return the blue coil to the parts house and took in exchange another one...who knows maybe it would be a good spare.

So now I’m running an older coil, new motorcraft spark box, and it hasn’t missed a beat. So..best wishes to all who have fun working on what we drive. The answer, carry tools, spare parts, hand cleaner etc.

Glad you got the problem solved, and good advice on carrying tools and critical spares. I am becoming a fan of grabbing clean used motorcraft parts at the junkyard over new aftermarket units from the parts houses. Too many times a brand new part has had a problem right out of the box or failed within months. A warranty is meaningless when you are broken down and stranded on the side of the road.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...