BuggTruck Posted June 29, 2019 Author Share Posted June 29, 2019 It screams all the time, or it just chirps on startup? Don't tighten the belt too much. It will kill the bearings in the alternator. How big a pry bar are you using to tension it? How much deflection do you get midspan? Is your old belt glazed, or did you replace it? What is the state of charge of your battery? If you charge the battery fully does the squeal stop then? Sorry for all the questions. Just trying to think it through. Note to self: next time attach air pump outlet before tightening air pump. Screams intermittently. But battery was below starting power. Have it on a charger tonight. While Idling, it did stop squeling after a minute. I replaced all the belts. I dont know how much deflection, its getting dark and i get to do this in a drive way, ill measure tomorrow. I dont have a pry bar (ill double check in garage) but even if i did im not sure where i would stick it. Only way i can get to alternator is up through the bottom of the truck while laying on the ground. I can grab alternator and pull really hard while i tighten. On the PS there was a nice hole to pull on, that one seems tight like before. Squeal seems to be either alternator belt or air pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 I dont know how much deflection, its getting dark and i get to do this in a drive way, ill measure tomorrow. I dont have a pry bar (ill double check in garage) but even if i did im not sure where i would stick it. Only way i can get to alternator is up through the bottom of the truck while laying on the ground. I can grab alternator and pull really hard while i tighten. Squeal seems to be either alternator belt or air pump. Some people say their 3G chirps on startup. Mine doesn't seem to. Note what Dave said about LRC regulators above. Deflection can be difficult to measure. I usually go with impossible to twist the belt more than 90* in the middle of the run. I doubt 'hand tight is going to do it. You don't need anything fancy. A big screwdriver is fine. I don't have a Windsor, but I can find a spot between block and alternator from below. If you think it might be the AIR pump just take that belt off... Hope these suggestions help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 Note to self: next time attach air pump outlet before tightening air pump. Screams intermittently. But battery was below starting power. Have it on a charger tonight. While Idling, it did stop squeling after a minute. I replaced all the belts. I dont know how much deflection, its getting dark and i get to do this in a drive way, ill measure tomorrow. I dont have a pry bar (ill double check in garage) but even if i did im not sure where i would stick it. Only way i can get to alternator is up through the bottom of the truck while laying on the ground. I can grab alternator and pull really hard while i tighten. On the PS there was a nice hole to pull on, that one seems tight like before. Squeal seems to be either alternator belt or air pump. You should have a lug wrench underhood, left side behind the fender liner. If you do it will suffice for a pry bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuggTruck Posted June 29, 2019 Author Share Posted June 29, 2019 You should have a lug wrench underhood, left side behind the fender liner. If you do it will suffice for a pry bar. Nope, i have the thing masquerading as a jack on the right but the lug wrench did not come with my truck. My dad has a crow bar and I've enlisted his hands. Smog pump belt is coming off until everything else is in line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 Screams intermittently. But battery was below starting power. Have it on a charger tonight. While Idling, it did stop squeling after a minute.The WHOLE starting & charging system needs to be in good condition for any alternator to work right. The difference is that, when your 3G works, it works MUCH HARDER than the previous one could. That's why you get some squeal. Start with the battery terminals, and continue to ALL the terminals on the heavy cables, as explained in the captions of this photo album: https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/723279/thumbnail/07done.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 I'm sorry for my vernacular Gary... I meant to differentiate a static page here at the garagemahal from an ongoing thread. I see that as a resource, rather than banter or Q&A I'll see if I can find some time to tether my tablet, as using nabble on my phone is a 'challenge'. Gary, I updated the links in the other thread and added a link in this thread for the stator pigtail mentioned -to Amazon- (keeping with BuggTruck's links for Alt & regulator pigtail) I revised the talk about the mistaken 20A fuse as Steve pointed out it was NOT in the Y/W sense wire. Hopefully this will help someone who happens across your 3G swap tutorial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 Gary, I updated the links in the other thread and added a link in this thread for the stator pigtail mentioned -to Amazon- (keeping with BuggTruck's links for Alt & regulator pigtail) I revised the talk about the mistaken 20A fuse as Steve pointed out it was NOT in the Y/W sense wire. Hopefully this will help someone who happens across your 3G swap tutorial. Jim - Thanks. I found the stator pigtail link, so will go look for the others in the other thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuggTruck Posted July 2, 2019 Author Share Posted July 2, 2019 Gary, I updated the links in the other thread and added a link in this thread for the stator pigtail mentioned -to Amazon- (keeping with BuggTruck's links for Alt & regulator pigtail) I revised the talk about the mistaken 20A fuse as Steve pointed out it was NOT in the Y/W sense wire. Hopefully this will help someone who happens across your 3G swap tutorial. The talk of the 20 amp fuse seems the same... (If you look closely, in the picture above the yellow/white wire connects to the alternator side of the fuse and is protected by the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder.) But, my harness does not have a fuse, and some form of circuit protection is absolutely necessary. See below. Ok, got everything tight but not to tight. I dont have a measuring device, but can twist the belts a quarter of a turn and there is no squeak. However now my smog pump is making noise inside. Ideas? 20190702_115512_1.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 Gary, I updated the links in the other thread and added a link in this thread for the stator pigtail mentioned -to Amazon- (keeping with BuggTruck's links for Alt & regulator pigtail) I revised the talk about the mistaken 20A fuse as Steve pointed out it was NOT in the Y/W sense wire. Hopefully this will help someone who happens across your 3G swap tutorial. The talk of the 20 amp fuse seems the same... (If you look closely, in the picture above the yellow/white wire connects to the alternator side of the fuse and is protected by the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder.) But, my harness does not have a fuse, and some form of circuit protection is absolutely necessary. See below. Ok, got everything tight but not to tight. I dont have a measuring device, but can twist the belts a quarter of a turn and there is no squeak. However now my smog pump is making noise inside. Ideas? 20190702_115512_1.mp4 Yes, I don't think Gary has edited out any suggestion that the fuse is in the Y/W wire yet. And my links to more stable suppliers add a bit to the costs I was discussing. Screeching is usually the vanes rubbing inside the housing. Give it a good shot of powdered graphite in that inlet. Grumbling or squeaking bearing noise is more troublesome and requires a rebuild (pita) or a rebuilt pump. I found mine cheap on Amazon. But be very careful with the model number. Close is NOT close enough. (you've been warned ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 Yes, I don't think Gary has edited out any suggestion that the fuse is in the Y/W wire yet. And my links to more stable suppliers add a bit to the costs I was discussing. Screeching is usually the vanes rubbing inside the housing. Give it a good shot of powdered graphite in that inlet. Grumbling or squeaking bearing noise is more troublesome and requires a rebuild (pita) or a rebuilt pump. I found mine cheap on Amazon. But be very careful with the model number. Close is NOT close enough. (you've been warned ) Ticking like that may be a cracked vane, or it might just be stuck in the hub and not expanding and contracting smoothly. (The hub is offset in the housing and it works just like any other vane pump) Edit: ** try the graphite. Do NOT put anything oily in there, it will kill it in a day** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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