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The Truck of Doom: An Occasional Build Thread


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Has anyone had luck replacing this with something new, and if so what did you use? I see a number of vendors, including my local NAPA, sell this type of thing.

If those options for some reason don't work out, and you want to see if you can make at least some parts of the factory plastic ducting work, I have the ductwork that I pulled from my old dash just sitting around looking for a new home.

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If those options for some reason don't work out, and you want to see if you can make at least some parts of the factory plastic ducting work, I have the ductwork that I pulled from my old dash just sitting around looking for a new home.

 

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. But...plastic, you say? Did your old dash have factory air? Mine are some kind of doped fabric.

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If those options for some reason don't work out, and you want to see if you can make at least some parts of the factory plastic ducting work, I have the ductwork that I pulled from my old dash just sitting around looking for a new home.

 

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. But...plastic, you say? Did your old dash have factory air? Mine are some kind of doped fabric.

Yep, factory air uses plastic ductwork. The problem with dealer air is that they use a non-A/C dash. The driver's side section of the duct will fit the dash, but the passenger side may have to be modified to fit. And then there's the issue of connecting it to the dealer air box, wherever they are located (I've never seen one in person). I assume the dealer air box connects to the collapsible ductwork much differently than the factory ductwork does.

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If those options for some reason don't work out, and you want to see if you can make at least some parts of the factory plastic ducting work, I have the ductwork that I pulled from my old dash just sitting around looking for a new home.

 

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. But...plastic, you say? Did your old dash have factory air? Mine are some kind of doped fabric.

Now that my dash is apart and I'm pulling out the A/C ducting, it occurred to me that this would be an excellent time to install that new headlight switch I bought a while back. My headlights work fine, but my dash lights flicker on and off unless the knob is in just the right position, so I figured the switch was worn out.

My surprise came when I was putting everything back together after testing, and brushed the ceramic disk with the back of my hand. HOT! I immediately thought about the fact that all the power for the headlights routes through that switch, wondered if I'd gotten a defective Chinese replacement, and decided to do some testing.

To make a long story short, it's not the headlights that are the problem - it's the dash lights. After waving my laser thermometer over the switches for a bit, swapping them in and out and turning things on and off, I realized that it's actually the dash lights that cause the switch to get hot. Turning the dash lights low apparently causes the excess power to be dumped off through that coil behind the disk, which then gets quite hot - nearly 170 degrees according to my thermometer:

IMG_0220.jpg.3b3d329b40a86790d07be904cd8f2d33.jpg

My new switch is probably Chinese, but it's not defective - the old one reached roughly the same temperature. I'm not thrilled with something that hot behind my dash, but apparently it's by design, and I normally keep my dash lights pretty bright anyway. Just thought I'd share this in case anyone else finds it interesting.

 

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Now that my dash is apart and I'm pulling out the A/C ducting, it occurred to me that this would be an excellent time to install that new headlight switch I bought a while back. My headlights work fine, but my dash lights flicker on and off unless the knob is in just the right position, so I figured the switch was worn out.

My surprise came when I was putting everything back together after testing, and brushed the ceramic disk with the back of my hand. HOT! I immediately thought about the fact that all the power for the headlights routes through that switch, wondered if I'd gotten a defective Chinese replacement, and decided to do some testing.

To make a long story short, it's not the headlights that are the problem - it's the dash lights. After waving my laser thermometer over the switches for a bit, swapping them in and out and turning things on and off, I realized that it's actually the dash lights that cause the switch to get hot. Turning the dash lights low apparently causes the excess power to be dumped off through that coil behind the disk, which then gets quite hot - nearly 170 degrees according to my thermometer:

My new switch is probably Chinese, but it's not defective - the old one reached roughly the same temperature. I'm not thrilled with something that hot behind my dash, but apparently it's by design, and I normally keep my dash lights pretty bright anyway. Just thought I'd share this in case anyone else finds it interesting.

Good to pass that on, I like my lights dim and the switch gets warm.

You mentioned all the lights going through the switch, I had a 1978 Ford van and a 1974 F250 that when I towed a trailer the switch would get hot and I would lose all the lights momentarily on both of them.

That would get my attention!

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You mentioned all the lights going through the switch, I had a 1978 Ford van and a 1974 F250 that when I towed a trailer the switch would get hot and I would lose all the lights momentarily on both of them.

That would get my attention!

I bet! And if I was having that problem, I wouldn't have let my new switch sit in a box unopened for a year, either. :nabble_smiley_happy:

 

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