The Truck of Doom: An Occasional Build Thread

[ArdWrknTrk]

Unicorns? My granddaughter loves them!

🦄

U + 1F984

[Dorsai]

There is a nifty little screw extractor made right here in Wolcott, CT by Alden Tool.

The Grabbit is essentially a double ended left hand drill & easy out in one.

They can be found nation wide in Lowe's stores.

Sizes 1-4 fit screws with the corresponding Phillips tips.

I picked one (well, a set of four) of these things up yesterday, and it worked like a champ. Backed the screw out, popped the door panel off, and was able to remove my slide lock.

Now we'll see if JB Weld is everything it's cracked up to be:

[Gary Lewis]

There is a nifty little screw extractor made right here in Wolcott, CT by Alden Tool.

The Grabbit is essentially a double ended left hand drill & easy out in one.

They can be found nation wide in Lowe's stores.

Sizes 1-4 fit screws with the corresponding Phillips tips.

I picked one (well, a set of four) of these things up yesterday, and it worked like a champ. Backed the screw out, popped the door panel off, and was able to remove my slide lock.

Now we'll see if JB Weld is everything it's cracked up to be:

That should work well. The JB Weld will have run down the tab a ways, and that will give it more surface on which to grip.

[ArdWrknTrk]

There is a nifty little screw extractor made right here in Wolcott, CT by Alden Tool.

The Grabbit is essentially a double ended left hand drill & easy out in one.

They can be found nation wide in Lowe's stores.

Sizes 1-4 fit screws with the corresponding Phillips tips.

I picked one (well, a set of four) of these things up yesterday, and it worked like a champ. Backed the screw out, popped the door panel off, and was able to remove my slide lock.

Now we'll see if JB Weld is everything it's cracked up to be:

Glad the suggestion worked out well for you.

I don't know much about JB Weld. (does it get brittle over time?)

I also don't know what kind of plastic that is. But if it's ABS I probably would have tried one of those 'plastic welder' in a 2 part syringe, like epoxy.

That stuff stinks to high heavens like methacrylate monomer and sets in 5-10 minutes instead of 24hrs.

[Dorsai]

That should work well. The JB Weld will have run down the tab a ways, and that will give it more surface on which to grip.

Well...hopefully not; if it does run down the tab, there's a risk that it'll reach the actual slider portion and freeze it into place. I've been checking periodically, though, and this doesn't seem to be happening.

That said, once what's on there sets up (another couple of hours or so), I'm going to apply a bead of JB to where the tab comes up through the metal plate, on the other side. This'll be on the outside away from the slider, so there's no risk of binding it. If that doesn't do the trick, I don't know what will.

 

[Dorsai]

I don't know much about JB Weld. (does it get brittle over time?)

I also don't know what kind of plastic that is. But if it's ABS I probably would have tried one of those 'plastic welder' in a 2 part syringe, like epoxy.

That stuff stinks to high heavens like methacrylate monomer and sets in 5-10 minutes instead of 24hrs.

I actually don't know much about JB Weld, either. But what I do know is that it dries very hard - which is why I went with it. I think my best chance of keeping these locks is to keep flexing to a minimum, as it's flexing that causes the old brittle plastic to snap. I'm hopeful that this will bind everything into place rigidly.

I'm a little gunshy now when it comes to fancy glues on this truck; some years ago when I first took my instrument panel out the left turn signal lens popped out of the panel. I decided to use CA glue to stick it back in there, and that stuff immediately started washing the green color right out. Now every time I signal left I'm reminded not to use stuff like that any more.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know much about JB Weld. (does it get brittle over time?)

I also don't know what kind of plastic that is. But if it's ABS I probably would have tried one of those 'plastic welder' in a 2 part syringe, like epoxy.

That stuff stinks to high heavens like methacrylate monomer and sets in 5-10 minutes instead of 24hrs.

I actually don't know much about JB Weld, either. But what I do know is that it dries very hard - which is why I went with it. I think my best chance of keeping these locks is to keep flexing to a minimum, as it's flexing that causes the old brittle plastic to snap. I'm hopeful that this will bind everything into place rigidly.

I'm a little gunshy now when it comes to fancy glues on this truck; some years ago when I first took my instrument panel out the left turn signal lens popped out of the panel. I decided to use CA glue to stick it back in there, and that stuff immediately started washing the green color right out. Now every time I signal left I'm reminded not to use stuff like that any more.

JB Weld won't run very much, so I really doubt it'll get to the slider. But when you turn the thing over you may see that it has run in enough that there's not much room for more JBW on the other side. However, if there is that will certainly help glue it together.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't know much about JB Weld. (does it get brittle over time?)

I also don't know what kind of plastic that is. But if it's ABS I probably would have tried one of those 'plastic welder' in a 2 part syringe, like epoxy.

That stuff stinks to high heavens like methacrylate monomer and sets in 5-10 minutes instead of 24hrs.

I actually don't know much about JB Weld, either. But what I do know is that it dries very hard - which is why I went with it. I think my best chance of keeping these locks is to keep flexing to a minimum, as it's flexing that causes the old brittle plastic to snap. I'm hopeful that this will bind everything into place rigidly.

I'm a little gunshy now when it comes to fancy glues on this truck; some years ago when I first took my instrument panel out the left turn signal lens popped out of the panel. I decided to use CA glue to stick it back in there, and that stuff immediately started washing the green color right out. Now every time I signal left I'm reminded not to use stuff like that any more.

You could always put one of those colored 'bulb condoms' on the bulb.

That would dim it right down, and make it green again.

Most people complain the bulbs are too dim and take them off.

Gary might have one, since he changed to LED's

[Gary Lewis]

You could always put one of those colored 'bulb condoms' on the bulb.

That would dim it right down, and make it green again.

Most people complain the bulbs are too dim and take them off.

Gary might have one, since he changed to LED's

I do have several of those and I'm happy to send one or two, but they are more blue than green. Might a green LED work?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I actually don't know much about JB Weld, either. But what I do know is that it dries very hard - which is why I went with it. I think my best chance of keeping these locks is to keep flexing to a minimum, as it's flexing that causes the old brittle plastic to snap. I'm hopeful that this will bind everything into place rigidly.

Acrylic is very inflexible, almost too brittle.

But using an acrylic adhesive would actually get a 'bite' on Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene.

Nitrile, butyl and styrene are polmerized with the acrylic to give it better moulding qualities and resilience.

Source: my father was director of engineering at a plastic manufacturer and I am a material science GEEK.