Powder Coat Question?

[FuzzFace2]

I missed that bit about it being plastic. If so, the powder won't stick. But surely there's a body solder that is metal?

From Eastwood's site:

About Eastwood Basic Lead Free Body Solder Kit

Lead-Free Body Solder is a recent development that is safer and stronger than potentially harmful lead-based body solders. Our lead-free solder clings as well as lead-based on horizontal and vertical surfaces. Spreadable (plastic) range is 428 to 932 degreesF (220 to 505 degreesC); best working range is 535 to 660 degreesF (280 to 350 degreesC). Tensile strength is 9000 psi. Leveling can easily be done by filing or sanding, by hand or power tools, since no lead particles will be dispersed (still, respiratory protection is highly recommended). Propane torch and torch tip are not included (see "Accessories" tab). Soldering torch is not included.

Dave ----

Here is the answer I got back from Eastwood:

Me: Can you powder coat over the top of an area that has been leaded?

Them: 1 answer

Bob G · 4 hours ago

 

Powder coating cures at 400° F. Lead has a melting point of 641° F Just make sure that you do not exceed the 400° for 20 Minutes, which is the cure Time and Temp. for our powder.

Not really an answer as I don't know if they / he knows how powder coating works to apply it?

If the description they posted of the lead (plastic) is right and what Gary said how the powder get applied it may not work.

Now re-reading the description I wonder if the "plastic" is a description of the working temp and not the lead it's self? Guess I could call them to get a good answer of "plastic".

Also the $166 (on sale) for this kit is high so not something I want to "try" to see if it works.

Well I have to talk to people on the bumpers & finish and if they need more work give Eastwood a call to see. Don't hold your breath I am in no rush.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Here is the answer I got back from Eastwood:

Me: Can you powder coat over the top of an area that has been leaded?

Them: 1 answer

Bob G · 4 hours ago

 

Powder coating cures at 400° F. Lead has a melting point of 641° F Just make sure that you do not exceed the 400° for 20 Minutes, which is the cure Time and Temp. for our powder.

Not really an answer as I don't know if they / he knows how powder coating works to apply it?

If the description they posted of the lead (plastic) is right and what Gary said how the powder get applied it may not work.

Now re-reading the description I wonder if the "plastic" is a description of the working temp and not the lead it's self? Guess I could call them to get a good answer of "plastic".

Also the $166 (on sale) for this kit is high so not something I want to "try" to see if it works.

Well I have to talk to people on the bumpers & finish and if they need more work give Eastwood a call to see. Don't hold your breath I am in no rush.

Dave ----

Eastwood sells a lot of powder and equipment for powder coating, so I would expect that he knows what he's talking about.

And, the "plastic" in that phrase on the lead does apply to a type of deformation of a solid. This site says "Slip is the prominent mechanism of plastic deformation in metals. It involves sliding of blocks of crystal over one other along definite crystallographic planes, called slip planes."

[Whisler]

Eastwood sells a lot of powder and equipment for powder coating, so I would expect that he knows what he's talking about.

And, the "plastic" in that phrase on the lead does apply to a type of deformation of a solid. This site says "Slip is the prominent mechanism of plastic deformation in metals. It involves sliding of blocks of crystal over one other along definite crystallographic planes, called slip planes."

They are probably referring to the "plastic phase" or spreadable phase temperature of the material not the contents. Fairly common usage in some scientific circles. I think that is what Gary was referring to.

[FuzzFace2]

They are probably referring to the "plastic phase" or spreadable phase temperature of the material not the contents. Fairly common usage in some scientific circles. I think that is what Gary was referring to.

Thanks guys,

After reading it a few times, I am a little slow on the up take, I came to the same thing.

So once I find what path I go down and how they want the bumpers finished I will look deeper into this if need be.

Dave ----

[Bruce moose4x4]

Thanks guys,

After reading it a few times, I am a little slow on the up take, I came to the same thing.

So once I find what path I go down and how they want the bumpers finished I will look deeper into this if need be.

Dave ----

Fuzz, My powdercoat guy said to use ALL-Metal body filler. I was asking him about doing the whole body. After I repaired the rust.

[FuzzFace2]

Fuzz, My powdercoat guy said to use ALL-Metal body filler. I was asking him about doing the whole body. After I repaired the rust.

Thanks that is good to know.

I know it is vary hard to sand and has little shelf life.

Think I have a pint can for years now that I did not open that may be garbage now.

Thanks again.

Dave ----

[Bruce moose4x4]

Fuzz, My powdercoat guy said to use ALL-Metal body filler. I was asking him about doing the whole body. After I repaired the rust.

Thanks that is good to know.I know it is vary hard to sand and has little shelf life.Think I have a pint can for years now that I did not open that may be garbage now.Thanks again.Dave ----

Now, I haven’t tried this, But I am toying with powder coating the whole body on the  truck? Already have the frame, bumpers, and roll bar powder coated. Haven’t decided yet. It will be a while before I get back to this truck.

 

 

Bruce Scott

Customer Service

Technical Service Dept.

(417)874-7200 ext.28209

redacted_email_address

Ozark Automotive/O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

 

From: FuzzFace2 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] [mailto:redacted_email_address]

Sent: Friday, June 7, 2019 5:47 PM

To: Bruce Scott <redacted_email_address>

Subject: Re: Powder Coat Question?

 

 

 

Thanks that is good to know.

I know it is vary hard to sand and has little shelf life.

Think I have a pint can for years now that I did not open that may be garbage now.

Thanks again.

Dave ----

 

81 F100 flare side 300 six/T18 project

http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1

81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck

http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

 

 

 

 

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[kramttocs]

Little late to the discussion but anything metal that will fit in my oven off Camano I've coated. And anything too big I've had a local shop do. I had the same question and I was told jb weld would work but it all depends on thickness. As Gary said, if it can't conduct it won't stick although gravity will help out if lucky. So you may have to increase the current on the gun to pull through the jb weld. Same goes with multiple primer coats. Since you're talking about a bumper I assume you are having a dedicated shop do it? If so they will likely have some tricks where you don't have to do a thing but point it out to them.

Let us know what comes of it.

[kramttocs]

Now, I haven't tried this, But I am toying with powder coating the whole body on the truck? Already have the frame, bumpers, and roll bar powder coated. Haven't decided yet. It will be a while before I get back to this truck.

Do you use Crump or Springfield?

Another powder coating guy I know was talking about doing a kids fenders and the other body panels down the road. He said they looked really slick.

I didn't go into any details on it with him so maybe I am missing something but personally I would leave the body panels in paint. What would you do if you get a chip or scratch in the coating? Getting all the seam sealer out of the cab nooks and crannies and the coating inside the door panels may be a trick not to mention having to make sure you reapply it everywhere after.

If you do go with it, I'd love to hear how it goes and drive by to check it out.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Now, I haven't tried this, But I am toying with powder coating the whole body on the truck? Already have the frame, bumpers, and roll bar powder coated. Haven't decided yet. It will be a while before I get back to this truck.

Do you use Crump or Springfield?

Another powder coating guy I know was talking about doing a kids fenders and the other body panels down the road. He said they looked really slick.

I didn't go into any details on it with him so maybe I am missing something but personally I would leave the body panels in paint. What would you do if you get a chip or scratch in the coating? Getting all the seam sealer out of the cab nooks and crannies and the coating inside the door panels may be a trick not to mention having to make sure you reapply it everywhere after.

If you do go with it, I'd love to hear how it goes and drive by to check it out.

Amen! The prep for powder, as you know, is painstaking. EVERYTHING has to be off. That would be a chore. And then there's the inevitable scratch or chip. Not something I want to do.