Powder Coat Question?

[FuzzFace2]

For the guys that powder coat (Gary that I know of) how smooth does the part have to be to not show up in the coating?

Does it have to be smooth like if using normal auto spray paint?

What can be used to fill in little imperfections like say stone chips size that would be on the front of a hood?

The 2 bumpers still have some "nicks" and I know they would show up with normal auto paint.

I know what I can use in that case but if I was to have the bumpers coated could I use JB Weld as a glazing putty to fill in the nicks and would it hold up in the oven?

I don't want to do something that would not work with coating. I don't think auto body glazing putty would not hold up to the heat of the oven.

Thanks

Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

To help the JB Weld package said it is good to 550*f

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

To help the JB Weld package said it is good to 550*f

Dave ----

The powder puts a fairly uniform coating on the part, so whatever is underneath shows through.

But I've never tried to fill. I'm not sure how JB Weld would work, but I don't think it would work very well at all. The reason is that you coat a part with electrostatic attraction. But I don't believe JB Weld conducts electricity so it won't attract the powder.

That can be overcome by heating the part prior to coating since the powder will stick to a hot surface, but the person doing it has to really know his stuff in order to get a smooth coating.

I'd talk to them and see what they say.

[FuzzFace2]

The powder puts a fairly uniform coating on the part, so whatever is underneath shows through.

But I've never tried to fill. I'm not sure how JB Weld would work, but I don't think it would work very well at all. The reason is that you coat a part with electrostatic attraction. But I don't believe JB Weld conducts electricity so it won't attract the powder.

That can be overcome by heating the part prior to coating since the powder will stick to a hot surface, but the person doing it has to really know his stuff in order to get a smooth coating.

I'd talk to them and see what they say.

Thanks for the reply and why I asked before doing it.

Would you think lead solder would be a better way to go?

I will check with the people before any thing is done but thinking the solder might be the way to go.

Thanks again.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

The powder puts a fairly uniform coating on the part, so whatever is underneath shows through.

But I've never tried to fill. I'm not sure how JB Weld would work, but I don't think it would work very well at all. The reason is that you coat a part with electrostatic attraction. But I don't believe JB Weld conducts electricity so it won't attract the powder.

That can be overcome by heating the part prior to coating since the powder will stick to a hot surface, but the person doing it has to really know his stuff in order to get a smooth coating.

I'd talk to them and see what they say.

Thanks for the reply and why I asked before doing it.

Would you think lead solder would be a better way to go?

I will check with the people before any thing is done but thinking the solder might be the way to go.

Thanks again.

Dave ----

You'll have to check what temp they use in their oven. I take the oven to 425 degrees and then back to 400 for 20 minutes. But some solders melt at that point. Here's what Wikipedia says:

Soft solder typically has a melting point range of 90 to 450 °C (190 to 840 °F; 360 to 720 K),[4] and is commonly used in electronics, plumbing, and sheet metal work. Alloys that melt between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F; 450 and 460 K) are the most commonly used. Soldering performed using alloys with a melting point above 450 °C (840 °F; 720 K) is called "hard soldering", "silver soldering", or brazing.

[FuzzFace2]

You'll have to check what temp they use in their oven. I take the oven to 425 degrees and then back to 400 for 20 minutes. But some solders melt at that point. Here's what Wikipedia says:

Soft solder typically has a melting point range of 90 to 450 °C (190 to 840 °F; 360 to 720 K),[4] and is commonly used in electronics, plumbing, and sheet metal work. Alloys that melt between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F; 450 and 460 K) are the most commonly used. Soldering performed using alloys with a melting point above 450 °C (840 °F; 720 K) is called "hard soldering", "silver soldering", or brazing.

Man you are just a kill joy

I did think of the melting point.

I really need to talk & show the bumpers to them to see what they have to say

I may end up doing what Pete did on his Ranger and paint them.

I was in Auto Zone to get the JB Weld, I don't have any so for stock, and saw they had rolls of wrap.

I would have gotten a roll but they did not have the size needed in chrome.

I also saw they had a Bur Wood wrap and the package shows a dash done in it.

When I get to that point I may give that a try on the dash parts as mine are looking a little worn.

Dave ----

 

[Gary Lewis]

You'll have to check what temp they use in their oven. I take the oven to 425 degrees and then back to 400 for 20 minutes. But some solders melt at that point. Here's what Wikipedia says:

Soft solder typically has a melting point range of 90 to 450 °C (190 to 840 °F; 360 to 720 K),[4] and is commonly used in electronics, plumbing, and sheet metal work. Alloys that melt between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F; 450 and 460 K) are the most commonly used. Soldering performed using alloys with a melting point above 450 °C (840 °F; 720 K) is called "hard soldering", "silver soldering", or brazing.

Man you are just a kill joy

I did think of the melting point.

I really need to talk & show the bumpers to them to see what they have to say

I may end up doing what Pete did on his Ranger and paint them.

I was in Auto Zone to get the JB Weld, I don't have any so for stock, and saw they had rolls of wrap.

I would have gotten a roll but they did not have the size needed in chrome.

I also saw they had a Bur Wood wrap and the package shows a dash done in it.

When I get to that point I may give that a try on the dash parts as mine are looking a little worn.

Dave ----

Yeah, I'm a kill joy.

But Eastwood says this about their Body Solder: "Spreadable (plastic) range is 428-932 degreesF". So something like that should work fine.

As for the wrap, I'd like to see the results.

[FuzzFace2]

Yeah, I'm a kill joy.

But Eastwood says this about their Body Solder: "Spreadable (plastic) range is 428-932 degreesF". So something like that should work fine.

As for the wrap, I'd like to see the results.

Thanks for the link.

The temp range it can go under looks good for powder coating but will the powder stick to it as it sounds like it is a thermal plastic and not lead.

If so and based on what you said on the powder sticking to it this may not work.

I did post a question with Eastwood asking that.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the link.

The temp range it can go under looks good for powder coating but will the powder stick to it as it sounds like it is a thermal plastic and not lead.

If so and based on what you said on the powder sticking to it this may not work.

I did post a question with Eastwood asking that.

Dave ----

I missed that bit about it being plastic. If so, the powder won't stick. But surely there's a body solder that is metal?

[FuzzFace2]

I missed that bit about it being plastic. If so, the powder won't stick. But surely there's a body solder that is metal?

From Eastwood's site:

About Eastwood Basic Lead Free Body Solder Kit

Lead-Free Body Solder is a recent development that is safer and stronger than potentially harmful lead-based body solders. Our lead-free solder clings as well as lead-based on horizontal and vertical surfaces. Spreadable (plastic) range is 428 to 932 degreesF (220 to 505 degreesC); best working range is 535 to 660 degreesF (280 to 350 degreesC). Tensile strength is 9000 psi. Leveling can easily be done by filing or sanding, by hand or power tools, since no lead particles will be dispersed (still, respiratory protection is highly recommended). Propane torch and torch tip are not included (see "Accessories" tab). Soldering torch is not included.

Dave ----