Gsmblue Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 You don't need a heavy cable. The regulator is only using ground for reference, so it can tell how high the voltage is getting, coming from the alternator, and then it cuts the field back. Older mechanical regulators do this with a set of points, just like the ICVR does. Gotcha, I think I am just having concerns about the grounds in general! At the very least I need to get the correct size crimps on that wire. Thinking about it, right before all this went on, there was a wire from the battery -Ve to the front crossmember. It was a really badly done crimp at crossmember end and bare wire at the other wedge in a nut at the other. I pulled it without thinking... Maybe that was there for a reason.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 Gotcha, I think I am just having concerns about the grounds in general! At the very least I need to get the correct size crimps on that wire. Thinking about it, right before all this went on, there was a wire from the battery -Ve to the front crossmember. It was a really badly done crimp at crossmember end and bare wire at the other wedge in a nut at the other. I pulled it without thinking... Maybe that was there for a reason.. Does your truck have the OEM battery ground cable with the little 'flag' bolted to the cross member on its way to the block? If it has been replaced, maybe the best solution is a 12" cable (like I pointed out above) going from the block ground back to the cross member bolt. $3, and a sturdy ground like it should be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 Gotcha, I think I am just having concerns about the grounds in general! At the very least I need to get the correct size crimps on that wire. Thinking about it, right before all this went on, there was a wire from the battery -Ve to the front crossmember. It was a really badly done crimp at crossmember end and bare wire at the other wedge in a nut at the other. I pulled it without thinking... Maybe that was there for a reason.. Gsmblue - The early trucks, including your '82, had sketchy grounds. For instance, the tail lights ground to the bed, but the bed only grounds through its 8 bolts to the frame. By '85 they'd changed that such that the tail lights et al came all the way back into the cab to ground. And by '95, like the front clip I'm working on, they'd gone way beyond that. To the point that the cab mounts have ground wires around the bushings. So you can't go wrong by adding grounds. Jim - I hadn't thought about whatever they used to deaden my mouth wearing off. And here I thought I was doing well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 ...the cab mounts have ground wires around the bushings.Those are just for radio noise - they're not power grounds. They should never have current flowing through them. https://supermotors.net/getfile/951350/thumbnail/15rfistrap.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/907034/thumbnail/radiobondstraps.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 Does your truck have the OEM battery ground cable with the little 'flag' bolted to the cross member on its way to the block? I think it does! Battery -Ve to passenger side frame and then on to the block, right? So that is all there and looks in good shape, but maybe it is time to pull that all apart... I added an 8AWG cable (crimped and heat shrinked) from the battery to the VR and now it is performing well. Took the mutt to starbucks for a "puppy-ccino" I kid you not, it is a thing... Still need to check the grounds. Still need a 3G! But there are some more serious issues to deal with, like the rear diff needs a new pinion seal and rear cover seal, Radiator still needs replacing.. I have had that part since September! Thanks for all the help! She is running again, the sun is shining and I will use her to go to soccer tonight! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 Does your truck have the OEM battery ground cable with the little 'flag' bolted to the cross member on its way to the block? I think it does! Battery -Ve to passenger side frame and then on to the block, right? So that is all there and looks in good shape, but maybe it is time to pull that all apart... I added an 8AWG cable (crimped and heat shrinked) from the battery to the VR and now it is performing well. Took the mutt to starbucks for a "puppy-ccino" I kid you not, it is a thing... Still need to check the grounds. Still need a 3G! But there are some more serious issues to deal with, like the rear diff needs a new pinion seal and rear cover seal, Radiator still needs replacing.. I have had that part since September! Thanks for all the help! She is running again, the sun is shining and I will use her to go to soccer tonight! :) Congrats!!! Well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 Does your truck have the OEM battery ground cable with the little 'flag' bolted to the cross member on its way to the block? I think it does! Battery -Ve to passenger side frame and then on to the block, right? So that is all there and looks in good shape, but maybe it is time to pull that all apart... I added an 8AWG cable (crimped and heat shrinked) from the battery to the VR and now it is performing well. Took the mutt to starbucks for a "puppy-ccino" I kid you not, it is a thing... Still need to check the grounds. Still need a 3G! But there are some more serious issues to deal with, like the rear diff needs a new pinion seal and rear cover seal, Radiator still needs replacing.. I have had that part since September! Thanks for all the help! She is running again, the sun is shining and I will use her to go to soccer tonight! :) I'm glad Espy is behaving herself with just a simple ground as repair. With better weather I'm sure you'll be chipping away at that list and soon enough opportunity to modernize the charging system will appear. Until then enjoy the game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 ...rear cover seal...There is no seal - it's just glued on. Ford says common silicone, but the dealer techs I worked with preferred either Ford gray silicone, or HondaBond. I prefer RightStuff, but as expensive as it is, I've started using E6000. https://supermotors.net/getfile/185332/thumbnail/diffcoversealant.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 ...rear cover seal...There is no seal - it's just glued on. Ford says common silicone, but the dealer techs I worked with preferred either Ford gray silicone, or HondaBond. I prefer RightStuff, but as expensive as it is, I've started using E6000. https://supermotors.net/getfile/185332/thumbnail/diffcoversealant.jpg Thanks for the help everyone! So that rear diff cover is a super simple job! I could do that in a lunch break... thanks Steve!! I don’t think the pinion seal is all that tricky either. If I can get those sorted out in one afternoon along with the radiator I would be happy! Need to find a helping pair f hands... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 Thanks for the help everyone! So that rear diff cover is a super simple job! I could do that in a lunch break... thanks Steve!! I don’t think the pinion seal is all that tricky either. If I can get those sorted out in one afternoon along with the radiator I would be happy! Need to find a helping pair f hands... Just a word of warning.... Always start by removing the fill plug. Whether it is a diff, gearbox or transfer case, make sure you can get fluid into it before draining all the fluid out. Plugs can get stuck and sometimes there's little room for a bigger wrench. The aluminum plugs on Borg Warner transfer cases are real bad about stripping out completely. It can make an easy job a nightmare if you need to use that vehicle to enact plan B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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