Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

1982 Bronco Alternator wiring mess!


Recommended Posts

I'll eventually switch to a 3G, but decided to repair the existing.

Although my electrical load doesn't demand the 3G conversation yet, I'll eventually move it with the good feedback on the modification I see from everyone here.

I'm still rocking the original 40amp 1G as well...and it's all my trucks needs...and it never gets driven anyway...lol, but I will switch up to the 3G when an alternator is required.

Painless offers a harness for this swap don't they?

https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30831

Finding a decent usable harness in a junkyard here is a real stretch....finding anything usable in a junkyard here is a real stretch.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll eventually switch to a 3G, but decided to repair the existing.

Although my electrical load doesn't demand the 3G conversation yet, I'll eventually move it with the good feedback on the modification I see from everyone here.

I'm still rocking the original 40amp 1G as well...and it's all my trucks needs...and it never gets driven anyway...lol, but I will switch up to the 3G when an alternator is required.

Painless offers a harness for this swap don't they?

https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30831

Finding a decent usable harness in a junkyard here is a real stretch....finding anything usable in a junkyard here is a real stretch.

That's a lot of $ for what is **changed links and prices** worth of components (new, at retail) and I don't like their fuse holder.

The lugs should be soldered, or at least dipped in NoAlox before using a real battery cable crimper.

Or buy a made cable, as below.

But to each their own.

I've made this argument wrt their DSII conversion harness.

And that at the time had a fatal flaw in how it was assembled.

ETA:

Bussmann HMEG fuse holder $6.99

Littlefuse 175A mega. $4.85

3G pigtail #PT-754. $7.95

A/C compressor connector. $6.99. (this goes to 'S' on the 3G)

12" 4Ga. Lug cable. $6.69

32" 4Ga. Lug cable. $9.50

Plus a ring terminal to connect yellow to the output lug on the 3G.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a lot of $ for what is **changed links and prices** worth of components (new, at retail) and I don't like their fuse holder.

The lugs should be soldered, or at least dipped in NoAlox before using a real battery cable crimper.

Or buy a made cable, as below.

But to each their own.

I've made this argument wrt their DSII conversion harness.

And that at the time had a fatal flaw in how it was assembled.

ETA:

Bussmann HMEG fuse holder $6.99

Littlefuse 175A mega. $4.85

3G pigtail #PT-754. $7.95

A/C compressor connector. $6.99. (this goes to 'S' on the 3G)

12" 4Ga. Lug cable. $6.69

32" 4Ga. Lug cable. $9.50

Plus a ring terminal to connect yellow to the output lug on the 3G.

Here's both plugs for $9.65.

*** changed links and prices***. :nabble_smiley_cool:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F191738752053

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well done, Jim! :nabble_anim_claps:

Well, things got a little more tricky!

I soldered the wires back together but now when I rev the engine a little the dash clock and radio reset...

Where on earth do I start here? Do I need to test the alternator and voltage regulator?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, things got a little more tricky!

I soldered the wires back together but now when I rev the engine a little the dash clock and radio reset...

Where on earth do I start here? Do I need to test the alternator and voltage regulator?

When I get a multimeter on there I am getting the following voltages at the battery:

Engine off 12.6V

Idle 13.2V

2000rpm 15.4V

So clearing over voltage... is that the regulator at fault or the alternator? How can I test?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I get a multimeter on there I am getting the following voltages at the battery:

Engine off 12.6V

Idle 13.2V

2000rpm 15.4V

So clearing over voltage... is that the regulator at fault or the alternator? How can I test?

The alternator seems to be putting out at idle, so the regulator isn't doing its job.

But that may be down to bad wiring.

If it can't sense what the voltage is in the system it will just be full field all the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I get a multimeter on there I am getting the following voltages at the battery:

Engine off 12.6V

Idle 13.2V

2000rpm 15.4V

So clearing over voltage... is that the regulator at fault or the alternator? How can I test?

Try adding a ground wire from the regulator case mounting screw to some of the metal body or directly to the -battery terminal.

Sometimes this will fix an overcharging problem

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try adding a ground wire from the regulator case mounting screw to some of the metal body or directly to the -battery terminal.

Sometimes this will fix an overcharging problem

Thanks, I have pulled the regulator off and will clean it up. When I put it back I will clean the fender and the screws to improve the grounding.

I will also go back and check the splice fix I did, maybe something went wrong there..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...