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Big Blue's Transformation


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Thanks, David. It sure feels GOOD!

I worked on the pedal assembly this afternoon. First, I tested the clutch switch and it is bad, so :nabble_florida-man-42_orig: jumpered the starter circuit somewhere and I have to find it.

Next, here's the hydroboost pedal on the right and the stock F250 pedal on the left. Notice that the hydroboost pedal's pin where the linkage to the booster goes is higher, meaning that there's less leverage. That's needed to get the right "feel" in the brake system I'm told.

And here are the pedals back together. The bushings looked new so I reused them.

But, there's a bit of a problem - the stop that is supposed to open the vacuum dump valve to kill the speed control misses the stem because it fits over the pin, which is higher on the pedal. So tomorrow I'll see if I can bend the arm that the valve sits on to cause it to hit the stop.

And, I'll look a bit more for the clutch switch that you, David, got me. It is here somewhere. :nabble_smiley_unhappy:

Gary,

You're getting MORE leverage, and LESS travel.

The arm (betwixt pedal pad and pin) is greater.

And the distance between pin and pivot is smaller.

Of course this gives you finer modulation for a given travel as well.

 

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And, progress is good!!! :nabble_smiley_happy:

Hey now!! :nabble_smiley_hurt:

I think he was quoting a famous person. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Anyway, going to be watching for a warm day when I can roll the truck back a bit so I can get the shop crane in front of it easily and then put the engine in. That'll free up a lot of room in front of the truck where the engine currently sits, allowing me to roll it forward enough to get the doors ahead of the lift. That way I can have easier access to work on installing the firewall brace and find the jumper that is bypassing the clutch switch.

Then I can install the pedals, hydroboost, and master. :nabble_smiley_super:

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I think he was quoting a famous person. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Anyway, going to be watching for a warm day when I can roll the truck back a bit so I can get the shop crane in front of it easily and then put the engine in. That'll free up a lot of room in front of the truck where the engine currently sits, allowing me to roll it forward enough to get the doors ahead of the lift. That way I can have easier access to work on installing the firewall brace and find the jumper that is bypassing the clutch switch.

Then I can install the pedals, hydroboost, and master. :nabble_smiley_super:

I really can't wait to see what the truck looks like with the engine in it because my springs will be here tomorrow and if yours is that tall without the engine, my truck is going to be massive without the engine. :nabble_smiley_oh_no:

 

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I really can't wait to see what the truck looks like with the engine in it because my springs will be here tomorrow and if yours is that tall without the engine, my truck is going to be massive without the engine. :nabble_smiley_oh_no:

Jim - You are right. I had it backwards.

Shaun - It is supposed to be 56 on Sunday, so maybe I can get the engine in soon.

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Shaun - It is supposed to be 56 on Sunday, so maybe I can get the engine in soon.

Summit had a deal on both front leaf packs for $220 shipped. The junkyard wanted $150 for OEM leaf packs, so the choice was pretty simple for me. Tomorrow they'll be here, and then we'll see where mine sits. I'm thinking it's gonna be up there for sure. :nabble_smiley_thinking:

 

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Shaun - It is supposed to be 56 on Sunday, so maybe I can get the engine in soon.

Summit had a deal on both front leaf packs for $220 shipped. The junkyard wanted $150 for OEM leaf packs, so the choice was pretty simple for me. Tomorrow they'll be here, and then we'll see where mine sits. I'm thinking it's gonna be up there for sure. :nabble_smiley_thinking:

That price makes it a no-brainer. It will be interesting to see how high yours is w/o an engine. Ours are pretty much in the same condition, so....

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That price makes it a no-brainer. It will be interesting to see how high yours is w/o an engine. Ours are pretty much in the same condition, so....

They're labeled as 2" leveling springs, but the reviews are saying more like 3" on Super Duty trucks, so we'll have to see. The RSK already puts us both at 2" above stock height. So I'm possibly looking at 5" w/engine. :nabble_smiley_scared:

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I think you’ve confirmed my thinking - it is messed UP! Sure glad my brain kicked in and I questioned things. 😳....

So my '97 service manual has the same text and same picture (that shows how to connect the hydraulic hose :nabble_anim_confused:). But not the same torque specs. Mine says 16-30 lb-ft.

But it does still say the slide pins go through the caliper and spindle. But they don't. In fact a couple pages earlier it says the caliper assembly is bolted to an anchor bracket which is bolted to the front wheel spindle. But there's no way the anchor bracket could be bolted to the spindle either. It's actually bolted to the knuckle (and the axle section of the service manual agrees with my nomenclature. The only thing I can figure is that maybe the 2WD knuckle and spindle are one part (they aren't on a 4WD) and they are sloppy with the nomenclature in the brake section (and have no pictures to clarify).

And it's the anchor bracket to knuckle bolts that I needed the 3' bar on. They are to be torqued to 141 - 190 lb-ft!

I did scan the three pages of the service manual that talk about this. They're .pdfs so I'll try to attach them here.

Scan0001.pdf

Scan0002.pdf

Scan0003.pdf

 

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