ArdWrknTrk Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Ok, if that's the brake pressure switch then I'll just plug it off as I'm not going to use it. And, the BOO is apparently just the "stop lamp switch" we've had all along. Here's the page from the '85 EVTM. Note the same wire colors as in the '96 EVTM above. I'm not seeing how speed control works in the Bullnose trucks. (I mean, I know it's a vacuum servo) but the disengage signal. Or are you all in with the EEC-V and will just short those pins out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 I'm not seeing how speed control works in the Bullnose trucks. (I mean, I know it's a vacuum servo) but the disengage signal. Or are you all in with the EEC-V and will just short those pins out? Here's the "schematic" for the speed control, although it does both electrical and vacuum. The vacuum dump valve is one way to kill the speed control, but the other is either the stop lamp switch (BOO) or the clutch switch. But I'm not sure how to answer your "Or are you all in with the EEC-V and will just short those pins out?". I think I have most things figured out on the EEC-V. But I don't plan to short any pins out. If I'm not using them I turn them off in the configuration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 Here's the "schematic" for the speed control, although it does both electrical and vacuum. The vacuum dump valve is one way to kill the speed control, but the other is either the stop lamp switch (BOO) or the clutch switch. But I'm not sure how to answer your "Or are you all in with the EEC-V and will just short those pins out?". I think I have most things figured out on the EEC-V. But I don't plan to short any pins out. If I'm not using them I turn them off in the configuration. Mid-day plea for help! The 1995 FSM says to tighten the caliper guide pins to 85-100 lb-ft, as shown on the page below. But, those are 10.9 M8 x 1.25's and most of what I find for torque values for those bolts is ~25 lb-ft. So I look further and at the end of that chapter it says "Front disc brake caliper to spindle bolts: 22 - 26 lb-ft". Given that I've torqued them to 25 lb-ft. What am I missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Mid-day plea for help! The 1995 FSM says to tighten the caliper guide pins to 85-100 lb-ft, as shown on the page below. But, those are 10.9 M8 x 1.25's and most of what I find for torque values for those bolts is ~25 lb-ft. So I look further and at the end of that chapter it says "Front disc brake caliper to spindle bolts: 22 - 26 lb-ft". Given that I've torqued them to 25 lb-ft. What am I missing? My '97 F-250 I think has essentially the same brakes as your '95 Dana 60. I'm not looking at it now, but I can't imagine that the caliper slide pins go through the spindle. Don't they go through a big casting that's bolted to the knuckle? So that sounds pretty messed up to me. If I'm remembering it right, getting that big casting off was a chore. I needed about a 3' cheater bar to get enough torque to break those bolts loose. I could easily believe them requiring 100 lb-ft. But they aren't slide pins and don't go through either the caliper or the spindle as I remember, so I don't think I'm being much help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 My '97 F-250 I think has essentially the same brakes as your '95 Dana 60. I'm not looking at it now, but I can't imagine that the caliper slide pins go through the spindle. Don't they go through a big casting that's bolted to the knuckle? So that sounds pretty messed up to me. If I'm remembering it right, getting that big casting off was a chore. I needed about a 3' cheater bar to get enough torque to break those bolts loose. I could easily believe them requiring 100 lb-ft. But they aren't slide pins and don't go through either the caliper or the spindle as I remember, so I don't think I'm being much help. I think you’ve confirmed my thinking - it is messed UP! Sure glad my brain kicked in and I questioned things. 😳 Eating lunch now and then I’m headed out with jack stands and an impact to retrieve MY wheels and tires from Bruno’s to-be 44HD front clip. ✅ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 I think you’ve confirmed my thinking - it is messed UP! Sure glad my brain kicked in and I questioned things. 😳 Eating lunch now and then I’m headed out with jack stands and an impact to retrieve MY wheels and tires from Bruno’s to-be 44HD front clip. ✅ Definitely a mistake there, maybe it's supposed to say in-lb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 I think you’ve confirmed my thinking - it is messed UP! Sure glad my brain kicked in and I questioned things. 😳 Eating lunch now and then I’m headed out with jack stands and an impact to retrieve MY wheels and tires from Bruno’s to-be 44HD front clip. ✅ I can try to take a look tonight at my '97 shop manual to see what it says. Unfortunately what it says a little too often is "see the '96 shop manual":nabble_smiley_angry: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 Definitely a mistake there, maybe it's supposed to say in-lb? Kinda doubt it meant in-lb as 100 in-lb is only 8 1/2 ft-lb. And the 22 - 26 is probably right. Anyway, this happened today. (Note that the lift's pad is not touching.) The top of the front wheel opening is 43" from the floor, and the back is 41". Wonder how much the front will drop with an engine, batteries, winch and bumper, etc? Surely well over 2", so I won't have to lift the back in order to have the front lower than the back. And here's the status of THE LIST: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Kinda doubt it meant in-lb as 100 in-lb is only 8 1/2 ft-lb. And the 22 - 26 is probably right. Anyway, this happened today. (Note that the lift's pad is not touching.) The top of the front wheel opening is 43" from the floor, and the back is 41". Wonder how much the front will drop with an engine, batteries, winch and bumper, etc? Surely well over 2", so I won't have to lift the back in order to have the front lower than the back. And here's the status of THE LIST: And, progress is good!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 And, progress is good!!! Thanks, David. It sure feels GOOD! I worked on the pedal assembly this afternoon. First, I tested the clutch switch and it is bad, so jumpered the starter circuit somewhere and I have to find it. Next, here's the hydroboost pedal on the right and the stock F250 pedal on the left. Notice that the hydroboost pedal's pin where the linkage to the booster goes is higher, meaning that there's less leverage. That's needed to get the right "feel" in the brake system I'm told. And here are the pedals back together. The bushings looked new so I reused them. But, there's a bit of a problem - the stop that is supposed to open the vacuum dump valve to kill the speed control misses the stem because it fits over the pin, which is higher on the pedal. So tomorrow I'll see if I can bend the arm that the valve sits on to cause it to hit the stop. And, I'll look a bit more for the clutch switch that you, David, got me. It is here somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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