Gary Lewis Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 Best of luck on the removal, something stripped out on mine when I removed it, either the nut holding the assembly to the bracket, or the stud with the lever. I can't quite remember. I hope it comes off w/o breaking something. Just checked and the part # is E5TZ 2B547-C. I can't find anyone who is selling one. Every hit I get on it says No Longer Available when I check it out. And, I found a thread called Brake Proportioning Valve back on FTE. This was back in 2013 and Chris said he only found two outfits that said they had 1 each, but he doubted they could find them. And what you probably don't know is that back then he and I had access to the Ford parts system, so that's really saying something if he couldn't find one. However, one guy on there said his Crewcab F350 DRW's valve works fine and he can lock all 6 wheels up any time. But, can we believe him? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 ...., from my limited reading my understanding is that braided lines don't expand like the others do, so the pedal is firmer. Is that not true? Abslutely NOT true. The braid is just a straw basket or a Chinese finger trap. Of course it expands. There are a few types of braided line available. Usually for brakes it's a PTFE core with stainless overbraid.(more common now is aramid braid, like Kevlar) What Teflon doesn't do is degrade, get soft and crack like rubber lines do. It is one of the most inert structural materials known last century. Stainless braid was used -dating back to WWII- because it was abrasion resistant, cut resistant, heat reflective, flexible and had a lot more tensile strength than the cotton reinforced rubber line it was protecting. Now, it's mostly used as a fashion statement. Good to know, Jim. I'm not worried about the looks of the brake hoses, but I do like the idea of having ones that will last. My family is not going to ever think about replacing hoses. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 Good to know, Jim. I'm not worried about the looks of the brake hoses, but I do like the idea of having ones that will last. My family is not going to ever think about replacing hoses. Thanks. Mid-day update: The load-sensing valve came off w/o tearing anything up, so it could be put back on later. However, the fitting on the end of the brake tubing that screwed into the valve is slightly bigger (.396) than the fittings that would got straight into a hose (.346"). But, there's a coupling about 3 or 4' forward and I have one of the tubes with the right-sized fitting, so I'll change that out. And, along the way I found more signs that had been here. The bracket that holds the load-sensing valve's linkage is held on my 2 of the bolts holding the back cover on the 10.25" Sterling. So I got the instructions on the torque spec's for those bolts on the Trick Flow cover and found they are supposed to be torqued to 25 lb-ft. However, when I checked the torque on those two bolts I got 2 on one and 5 lb-ft on the other. So I checked all of them - somewhere between 2 & 5. That might 'splain the weeping you can see in the pic below. But they are all now torqued to 25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 Mid-day update: The load-sensing valve came off w/o tearing anything up, so it could be put back on later. However, the fitting on the end of the brake tubing that screwed into the valve is slightly bigger (.396) than the fittings that would got straight into a hose (.346"). But, there's a coupling about 3 or 4' forward and I have one of the tubes with the right-sized fitting, so I'll change that out. And, along the way I found more signs that had been here. The bracket that holds the load-sensing valve's linkage is held on my 2 of the bolts holding the back cover on the 10.25" Sterling. So I got the instructions on the torque spec's for those bolts on the Trick Flow cover and found they are supposed to be torqued to 25 lb-ft. However, when I checked the torque on those two bolts I got 2 on one and 5 lb-ft on the other. So I checked all of them - somewhere between 2 & 5. That might 'splain the weeping you can see in the pic below. But they are all now torqued to 25. That foot for the lift on the passenger side is a little scary there. Is it just the photo or is that truck close to coming off the lift? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 That foot for the lift on the passenger side is a little scary there. Is it just the photo or is that truck close to coming off the lift? It isn't directly in the center, but it isn't going anywhere. Apparently it has moved in the last several months as I worked on it. But I'm pretty close to getting the wheels on it so it'll be off the lift soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 It isn't directly in the center, but it isn't going anywhere. Apparently it has moved in the last several months as I worked on it. But I'm pretty close to getting the wheels on it so it'll be off the lift soon. End Of Day Report: After getting the proportioning valve off and discovering the the fitting on the brake tube that went into it was too big to go into the brake hose I have, I swapped out that brake tube with one that's probably off of Dad's truck. (I have new stainless ones for Dad's truck.) And it all went together fine. However, if I go to the taller F350 rear blocks I'll have to replace the hose as it just barely has slack - but it isn't as tight as it looks. Then I decided to get started on the hydroboost conversion, and these things fell off: Then, just for grins, I put the hydroboost unit in place and bolted the F450's master in. (The F250 master off of Huck won't go on the hydroboost as the bolts are just a bit too wide.) However, knowing that the front and rear lines are swapped on the later masters, I pulled Big Blue's lines off from the brake pressure differential valve and put Huck's (1990 F250) on, and they screwed in perfectly. But, do I just put a plug in where the red switch is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 End Of Day Report: After getting the proportioning valve off and discovering the the fitting on the brake tube that went into it was too big to go into the brake hose I have, I swapped out that brake tube with one that's probably off of Dad's truck. (I have new stainless ones for Dad's truck.) And it all went together fine. However, if I go to the taller F350 rear blocks I'll have to replace the hose as it just barely has slack - but it isn't as tight as it looks. Then I decided to get started on the hydroboost conversion, and these things fell off: Then, just for grins, I put the hydroboost unit in place and bolted the F450's master in. (The F250 master off of Huck won't go on the hydroboost as the bolts are just a bit too wide.) However, knowing that the front and rear lines are swapped on the later masters, I pulled Big Blue's lines off from the brake pressure differential valve and put Huck's (1990 F250) on, and they screwed in perfectly. But, do I just put a plug in where the red switch is? Sooo happy to see those parts finally being fitted. You just plug the recall safety harness in to the switch. If it were me, I'd swap in a factory fresh BOO just so I could sleep at night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 Sooo happy to see those parts finally being fitted. You just plug the recall safety harness in to the switch. If it were me, I'd swap in a factory fresh BOO just so I could sleep at night. Oh, that's the BOO - Brake On/Off switch? I want to have one as the ECU is expecting it. But I didn't know if that was the BOO or the Brake Pressure Switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 Oh, that's the BOO - Brake On/Off switch? I want to have one as the ECU is expecting it. But I didn't know if that was the BOO or the Brake Pressure Switch. Ok, I'm wrong. That's definitely the pressure switch. And even though it 'should' be good, I remember being the first one to find Ben's truck on fire. It made me think, about speed control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 Ok, I'm wrong. That's definitely the pressure switch. And even though it 'should' be good, I remember being the first one to find Ben's truck on fire. It made me think, about speed control. Ok, if that's the brake pressure switch then I'll just plug it off as I'm not going to use it. And, the BOO is apparently just the "stop lamp switch" we've had all along. Here's the page from the '85 EVTM. Note the same wire colors as in the '96 EVTM above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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