ArdWrknTrk Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Jim - Yes, I do have the 450's harness, but Bill has assured me that the 85 & 86 tank wiring is the same. (However, he hadn't told me about the resistance wire, so I'd better check the rest of it. ) Sorry about all the stuff you sent. But it is going to get put to good use. Bob - Thanks, but I'm keeping the Bullnose horn system and wiring. And Big Blue's horn worked when I pulled him apart, so hopefully it will when it goes back together. Basically I'm trying to keep as much of the Bullnose wiring as I can in order to make this as simple as possible. So horn and the associated speed control, radio, HVAC, lighting, gauges, trailering package, etc will stay Bullnose and the engine controls will be '96. However, there are things that the engine control system needs, like to know when the engine is cranking. And, it needs to tell the fuel system when to run the pump. So there are interfaces. But thanks anyway. Gary, there's certainly no reason to apologise. It's just, that day, every time I posted "ok, I've got X" you'd reply "Well, give me y and z too." I'd pull y and z, and... Bob, you make a lot of sense. If the whole of that circuit is hot and only ground is being switched it works. But I wonder why that is the "small" wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 Gary, there's certainly no reason to apologise. It's just, that day, every time I posted "ok, I've got X" you'd reply "Well, give me y and z too." I'd pull y and z, and... Bob, you make a lot of sense. If the whole of that circuit is hot and only ground is being switched it works. But I wonder why that is the "small" wire. Oh! I misunderstood Bob's post! He was talking about Relay #2?! Duh! Interesting. I wouldn't ever have thought of that. Might be the answer. Jim - I'm sorry to have been a pain, but I'm really glad I have all this stuff. REALLY glad. As said yesterday, there are things missing on the CA-spec harness, and I'll use parts from the F450 harness. And the alternator. And the polygroove A/C bracket. And the hydroboost booster and pedal. And the Saginaw pump. And the fuel rail instead of Huck's rail. And the ignition module. And the water pump pulley. And I'm sure there are plenty more things that I'm just not remembering. THANKS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Oh! I misunderstood Bob's post! He was talking about Relay #2?! Duh! Interesting. I wouldn't ever have thought of that. Might be the answer. Jim - I'm sorry to have been a pain, but I'm really glad I have all this stuff. REALLY glad. As said yesterday, there are things missing on the CA-spec harness, and I'll use parts from the F450 harness. And the alternator. And the polygroove A/C bracket. And the hydroboost booster and pedal. And the Saginaw pump. And the fuel rail instead of Huck's rail. And the ignition module. And the water pump pulley. And I'm sure there are plenty more things that I'm just not remembering. THANKS! Gary, I'm the one that's grateful! There were things under and behind or tangled with other things. I would have been more respectful to, or removed as a unit. Had I known, I would have taken a more comprehensive approach, that's all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 Gary, I'm the one that's grateful! There were things under and behind or tangled with other things. I would have been more respectful to, or removed as a unit. Had I known, I would have taken a more comprehensive approach, that's all. Ok, here's the improved fuel system wiring. Note that this approach takes the resistance wire out, and eliminates all of the wiring to the '85 fuel pressure relay. Plus, since the inertia switch and the tank selector switch are close it will be more easily done. And this lets you see what has been taken out: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Ok, here's the improved fuel system wiring. Note that this approach takes the resistance wire out, and eliminates all of the wiring to the '85 fuel pressure relay. Plus, since the inertia switch and the tank selector switch are close it will be more easily done. And this lets you see what has been taken out: It's really odd (to me) the way the FPR is depicted. It says energized, but is not pulled in toward the coil Seems almost like their diagram is not showing 87 & 87A correctly, because I don't understand why it should be open when energized (as shown) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 It's really odd (to me) the way the FPR is depicted. It says energized, but is not pulled in toward the coil Seems almost like their diagram is not showing 87 & 87A correctly, because I don't understand why it should be open when energized (as shown) Yes, the EVTM is surely wrong. I ran into several other errors yesterday as well. For instance 85 and 86 were swapped. So it isn’t perfect, but is FAR better than nothing. And surely better than Chiltons or Clymers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Yes, the EVTM is surely wrong. I ran into several other errors yesterday as well. For instance 85 and 86 were swapped. So it isn’t perfect, but is FAR better than nothing. And surely better than Chiltons or Clymers. There are almost always mistakes in documentation. I just needed a reality check, because it had me scratching my head. And YES! Way better than Chilton's or Clymers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 There are almost always mistakes in documentation. I just needed a reality check, because it had me scratching my head. And YES! Way better than Chilton's or Clymers. Well, I made some progress today, as shown below. I'd hoped to get the wheels on, but didn't get the brake hardware on so didn't want to do that. And, along the way I used one of my tricks - grinding a bearing race down to use as a driver for the new race. The inside race sits in a recess that is deeper than the race is wide, so if I'd used the old race to press the new one in the old one would have been partially in the hub and have to be extracted. Instead I put the old race on the roller bearing and held the race to the bench grinding wheel while holding the bearing. The race runs slower than the wheel and gets ground down, slowly. I took .010" off and it worked a treat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 Well, I made some progress today, as shown below. I'd hoped to get the wheels on, but didn't get the brake hardware on so didn't want to do that. And, along the way I used one of my tricks - grinding a bearing race down to use as a driver for the new race. The inside race sits in a recess that is deeper than the race is wide, so if I'd used the old race to press the new one in the old one would have been partially in the hub and have to be extracted. Instead I put the old race on the roller bearing and held the race to the bench grinding wheel while holding the bearing. The race runs slower than the wheel and gets ground down, slowly. I took .010" off and it worked a treat. Today has been a frustrating day. But I have to remember that two steps forward and one back is still progress. First, I set my fancy laptop up to be Janey's computer in her sewing room, but am having problems with it forgetting about the external monitor after a while. The computer appears to be going to sleep despite me having it set to NEVER. And when we wake it by moving the mouse it is in a new world. Second, went to the shop with the goal of getting the brakes and wheels on Big Blue today. Not going to happen. The first issue was that I couldn't find the pins the calipers slide on. (Yes, that's one of the nice features of the '95 D60 - it has the sliding calipers.) I turned the place upside down and cannot find the pins/bolts I took off. So I went to Amazon and they had some from several vendors that would fit. And the Dorman ones were said to be here tomorrow when I ordered them. But when the email came in it is going to be Wed or Thursday. I'm NOT playing that game, so canceled the order. And, since none of the other Amazon-sourced parts could be here any sooner I went to Rock Auto and ordered the Raybestos ones - although I don't know when they'll be here. Then I discovered that the upper ball joint's grease fitting hit the u-joint. In the pic below it is actually stuck, but I was able to get it unstuck and out. Then the question became how to get the smaller straight one in there. After trying with my fingers I tried this approach, and held it up in place with a screwdriver. It worked! And, here's the result, although I don't know how I'm going to grease it. Guess I'm done wrenching for the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Then I discovered that the upper ball joint's grease fitting hit the u-joint. I And, here's the result, although I don't know how I'm going to grease it. Guess I'm done wrenching for the day. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n48665/Zerk_Does_Not_Hit.jpg If enough clearance: https://greaseextensionhoses.com/product/90o-zero-clearance-elbow/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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