Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

While I like 'being the electron' when components are labeled "Solid State" it's like "There be Dragons here!".If the gates OF the component were there I could easily navigate.

I'm not quite sure what you mean, but for my own edification I'm going to draw the two ideas up. But I'm going to use the pages from the EVTM's and don't have the '96 pages scanned in. Maybe tomorrow.

 

And, to give you an idea what I'm working on, here's the spreadsheet. You might have to scroll around to get to the good info as it doesn't seem to be coming up on the right cell. But it'll let you see what I'm doing.

 

[Gary Lewis]

On the '96 the FPR is a standard Ford/Bosch style relay and is in the power distribution box. So, which to use?

sounds more than likely if there is an issue in the future this is also an easier relay to get you hands on.

Yes. And one of the reasons I mentioned it. I have a reasonable stock of the Ford relays, but none of the Bullnose FPR. In fact, in a pinch a standard Bosch relay could be used, although you'd either have to take the tab off or leave the cover open.

Forgot to mention when discussing the spreadsheet that at this point it looks like I'll have two relay slots open. There are five slots, and although one doesn't have contacts in it there are plenty of contacts to be had in other PDB's I have.

So I'll have the PCM and the FPR relays. I don't need the horn relay since I'll use the Bullnose horn relay, but there are several things in there that need Key On power, so I'll use the horn relay as a key-on relay.

That leaves two relays open, so I could use those for the headlights and power them off one of the unused fuse slots. However, I have the trailer option relay module that I won't use as I'll continue to use the Bullnose trailer setup. So I might use the two trailer relays by the main battery and just tap into the Bullnose headlight wiring at the right headlight and run the wires to the left headlight across the radiator support - if there's room in the bundle as it is already large.

Suggestions?

[ArdWrknTrk]

While I like 'being the electron' when components are labeled "Solid State" it's like "There be Dragons here!".If the gates OF the component were there I could easily navigate.

I'm not quite sure what you mean, but for my own edification I'm going to draw the two ideas up. But I'm going to use the pages from the EVTM's and don't have the '96 pages scanned in. Maybe tomorrow.

 

And, to give you an idea what I'm working on, here's the spreadsheet. You might have to scroll around to get to the good info as it doesn't seem to be coming up on the right cell. But it'll let you see what I'm doing.

 

I get mired in a spreadsheet but can easily navigate a schematic.If a schematic throws a big box with 104 leads coming out, it's impossible for meThe EVTM is essentially ITTT.But if the IC was something like their rendition of an ignition or headlamp switch thats fine.Billions of billions of switches??? :nabble_anim_confused:ASML is right up the road at the Wilton line.They manufacture the machines that manufacture almost ALL the chips.I think Samsung may be one exception in that they have enough vertical integration to pull it off, but Intel and the others use these, essentially the patterns, forms, mullers, rams and flasks of their foundry.If my personal experience with IGBT is any example, discreet relays will be as arcane as gas lamps.Walk into the hardware or general store and ask for a pound of carbide and a thorium mantle.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That leaves two relays open, so I could use those for the headlights and power them off one of the unused fuse slots. However, I have the trailer option relay module that I won't use as I'll continue to use the Bullnose trailer setup. So I might use the two trailer relays by the main battery and just tap into the Bullnose headlight wiring at the right headlight and run the wires to the left headlight across the radiator support - if there's room in the bundle as it is already large.

Suggestions?

I don't remember, but is the blower motor in a '96 on relay power?

That's what I intend to use my last relay for.

At least you're dealing with the harness on the bench.

I had to loosen up my radiator and remove the reservoir just to push the fog lamp wire through, and back up to my dash.

 

[85lebaront2]

On the '96 the FPR is a standard Ford/Bosch style relay and is in the power distribution box. So, which to use?

sounds more than likely if there is an issue in the future this is also an easier relay to get you hands on.

Yes. And one of the reasons I mentioned it. I have a reasonable stock of the Ford relays, but none of the Bullnose FPR. In fact, in a pinch a standard Bosch relay could be used, although you'd either have to take the tab off or leave the cover open.

Forgot to mention when discussing the spreadsheet that at this point it looks like I'll have two relay slots open. There are five slots, and although one doesn't have contacts in it there are plenty of contacts to be had in other PDB's I have.

So I'll have the PCM and the FPR relays. I don't need the horn relay since I'll use the Bullnose horn relay, but there are several things in there that need Key On power, so I'll use the horn relay as a key-on relay.

That leaves two relays open, so I could use those for the headlights and power them off one of the unused fuse slots. However, I have the trailer option relay module that I won't use as I'll continue to use the Bullnose trailer setup. So I might use the two trailer relays by the main battery and just tap into the Bullnose headlight wiring at the right headlight and run the wires to the left headlight across the radiator support - if there's room in the bundle as it is already large.

Suggestions?

Gary, if you are using the '96 front wiring harness (mostly) I would definitely stick with using the Bosch style relays. They are plentiful, I have a huge box full of them, all tested (both NC and NO contacts and coil) I also have found that Ford, GM and Chrysler use the same relays but each has their own PN for them.

On Darth, I grabbed a auxiliary relay box from a Bronco that has 4 Bosch relays in it, it was for part of the ABS and trailer package. I have 3 relays for the trailer lights + the battery charge relay. I wired the trailer stop and turn using the '96 harness, but modified by taking the rear stop and turn trailer feed Ford provided and using the taps that went to the two fuses for the trailer option but tapped into the circuit ahead of the fuses, used that for my trailer stop and turn relay coils, took the NO contacts output back through the fuses and into the '96 trailer harness. This way all of my rear clearance lights and trailer running along with stop and turn lights are isolated through fuses so a short in a trailer will not take out my truck lights.

I can mark up the required pages from a '96 EVTM later, I will be gone most of the day.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, if you are using the '96 front wiring harness (mostly) I would definitely stick with using the Bosch style relays. They are plentiful, I have a huge box full of them, all tested (both NC and NO contacts and coil) I also have found that Ford, GM and Chrysler use the same relays but each has their own PN for them.

On Darth, I grabbed a auxiliary relay box from a Bronco that has 4 Bosch relays in it, it was for part of the ABS and trailer package. I have 3 relays for the trailer lights + the battery charge relay. I wired the trailer stop and turn using the '96 harness, but modified by taking the rear stop and turn trailer feed Ford provided and using the taps that went to the two fuses for the trailer option but tapped into the circuit ahead of the fuses, used that for my trailer stop and turn relay coils, took the NO contacts output back through the fuses and into the '96 trailer harness. This way all of my rear clearance lights and trailer running along with stop and turn lights are isolated through fuses so a short in a trailer will not take out my truck lights.

I can mark up the required pages from a '96 EVTM later, I will be gone most of the day.

Jim - No, the '96 PDB doesn't have a relay for the blower motor. And while I'd like to do that it isn't on the list for right now. A wise man recently said "A man has to have his priorities." (But, if I ran across the 4-relay box Bill mentioned I could use that for the headlights and the blower motor. Hmmm.....)

Bill - Since you've done it, meaning the "use G112" trick, it is good to see you say "use the Bosch relays". That trick is neat, but going with the FPR in the PDB has a lot of merit.

And while some may think that having made the decision I no longer need to draw up the change. But I want to see it on "paper", and I want to leave it for posterity.

As for the trailering package, I think that's where I'll draw the line on what gets integrated from the '96 harness. The '85 setup, ugly as it is, works. So I think I'll leave it in place and use that time to get other things done.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - No, the '96 PDB doesn't have a relay for the blower motor. And while I'd like to do that it isn't on the list for right now. A wise man recently said "A man has to have his priorities." (But, if I ran across the 4-relay box Bill mentioned I could use that for the headlights and the blower motor. Hmmm.....)

Bill - Since you've done it, meaning the "use G112" trick, it is good to see you say "use the Bosch relays". That trick is neat, but going with the FPR in the PDB has a lot of merit.

And while some may think that having made the decision I no longer need to draw up the change. But I want to see it on "paper", and I want to leave it for posterity.

As for the trailering package, I think that's where I'll draw the line on what gets integrated from the '96 harness. The '85 setup, ugly as it is, works. So I think I'll leave it in place and use that time to get other things done.

Ok, let's try this. Here's the '96 wiring on the left and the '85 wiring on the right:

And this shows what I plan to do, but w/o taking out the extraneous stuff:

Last, this shows the resulting wiring with the extraneous stuff gone:

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, let's try this. Here's the '96 wiring on the left and the '85 wiring on the right:

And this shows what I plan to do, but w/o taking out the extraneous stuff:

Last, this shows the resulting wiring with the extraneous stuff gone:

Challenging to view on my phone.

I get the gist of what you're doing with the PCM to drive the pumps.

Side note to my suggestion above, I see that wire colors swap at my blower motor connector.

I seem to have just enough 10Ga primary wire to reach there and back, though I only need milliamps to close the relay, it is on a 30A fuse in the truck, and should probably be rated for that.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, let's try this. Here's the '96 wiring on the left and the '85 wiring on the right:

And this shows what I plan to do, but w/o taking out the extraneous stuff:

Last, this shows the resulting wiring with the extraneous stuff gone:

And now for a potential modification of the starter relay plans. I found that I have the box below, which has four relays. Three are the standard Bosch 40 amp relays, but the fourth is a 70 amp job with the big terminals, as shown on the spare relay below the box.

So, instead of the fender-mounted starter relay, how 'bout a stud to take the charge cable from the alternator, the battery cable, the fuselinks to the Bullnose wiring, and the cable running across the radiator support to the PDB. And then use this box for two headlight relays, the blower relay, and the 70 amp relay to pull in the starter.

The downside is that this box doesn't have any positions for fuses and I need a fuse for the headlights. Having said that I do have an auto-reset circuit breaker that I used previously on the headlight wiring harness and it would work just fine, although not as elegant as a slot in the box.

What'cha think?

[Gary Lewis]

Challenging to view on my phone.

I get the gist of what you're doing with the PCM to drive the pumps.

Side note to my suggestion above, I see that wire colors swap at my blower motor connector.

I seem to have just enough 10Ga primary wire to reach there and back, though I only need milliamps to close the relay, it is on a 30A fuse in the truck, and should probably be rated for that.

Yes, if you leave the 30A fuse in the box you'll need to use wiring capable of handling that current.