Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

The Bostitch hose is $27.69 shipped from Amazon, so is ~2/3 the price. And, it has the replaceable ends, which I was planning to use to allow it to be cut down to maybe 25'.

But, it is also 1/4" vs the 1/2" size of Speedaire hose. So certainly more volume with the larger hose, although as you've pointed out before, the schrader valve may be the limiting factor. And, the 1/2" ID hose has to have a significantly bigger OD. Dunno. I'm torn but leaning to the 1/4" hose.

As for the air bags, I've assumed that I'd put their valves on the back bumper, although that means the lines have to flex with the suspension. Perhaps bringing the lines up to the tool box would be good?

So, that's Cripes price -without- shipping, and Prime is gonna kill it there.

You don't need field reparable ends if you're going to cut it in half.

Since you'll need a new nipple and coupler anyhow.

But in my trade, if you drop the gun and it lands on the coupling, cutting a smile into the hose, leaving NO room for a double barb, then having those ends as part of the original hose is an advantage.

[Gary Lewis]

So, that's Cripes price -without- shipping, and Prime is gonna kill it there.

You don't need field reparable ends if you're going to cut it in half.

Since you'll need a new nipple and coupler anyhow.

But in my trade, if you drop the gun and it lands on the coupling, cutting a smile into the hose, leaving NO room for a double barb, then having those ends as part of the original hose is an advantage.

I kinda like the field-replaceable ends idea. Especially when you are going off the beaten track. That way any damage can be repaired.

And the smaller diameter and less bulk has merit as well. May go with the smaller hose and cut it to whatever length I think I need to get to the front tires and have the remainder as spare. Then, if that doesn't fill fast enough I can try one of my larger hoses with the regulator turned down to see if there's enough difference to warrant the bigger hose.

[Gary Lewis]

I kinda like the field-replaceable ends idea. Especially when you are going off the beaten track. That way any damage can be repaired.

And the smaller diameter and less bulk has merit as well. May go with the smaller hose and cut it to whatever length I think I need to get to the front tires and have the remainder as spare. Then, if that doesn't fill fast enough I can try one of my larger hoses with the regulator turned down to see if there's enough difference to warrant the bigger hose.

I took Jim's suggestion and put the 'scope as well as the DVM on the inverter today. The DVM shows 102 volts when there's no load on it and 122 volts with the compressor on it. But that's not too accurate as the DVM is expecting a sine wave, and as you'll see this one is a square wave.

As for the waveform, here 'tis w/o any load. And, btw, the vertical scale is 50 volts/horizontal line while the horizontal is 2 ms/vertical line.

And here's the waveform with 600 watts of pure resistive load, which was my hot air gun on low.

Here it is with the heat gun on high - 1200 watts:

And this is with the compressor on:

[Nothing Special]

The Bostitch hose is $27.69 shipped from Amazon, so is ~2/3 the price. And, it has the replaceable ends, which I was planning to use to allow it to be cut down to maybe 25'.

But, it is also 1/4" vs the 1/2" size of Speedaire hose. So certainly more volume with the larger hose, although as you've pointed out before, the schrader valve may be the limiting factor. And, the 1/2" ID hose has to have a significantly bigger OD. Dunno. I'm torn but leaning to the 1/4" hose.

1/4" seems a little small. It won't be the restriction the Schrader valve is, so maybe it won't be significant. Don't take this for anything more than it's worth but it just seems small to me (I have a 25' long 3/8" hose and a 12' long coiled 1/4" hose that I carry with me).

As to field serviceable, I second that (or is it "third" by now?). I had a hose spring a leak on one trip. It had a lot of cracks in the outer sheath, I really should have replaced it before, so it's my own fault. But it was nice to be able to repair it in about 2 minutes.

As for the air bags, I've assumed that I'd put their valves on the back bumper, although that means the lines have to flex with the suspension. Perhaps bringing the lines up to the tool box would be good?

When I had air bags they were mounted to both the frame and the leaf spring (at the axle), with the air line going into the top where it was attached to the frame. So no flexing of the line while the suspension cycled. Not that the line supplied couldn't handle flex, but it was nice to keep it all tucked up against the frame where it was protected rather than needing an exposed run to get it from the axle up to the truck. I'm not sure how your plan to let the bag and mount separate to keep it from limiting droop will affect that. But I guess I envisioned keeping the bag attached to the top frame mount and let the bottom spring mount fall away. If you do it that way your line will be up at the frame like mine was.

And for what it's worth, I put the valves on my truck inside the bed. They were just inside the tail gate, on the front-facing surface of the stake pocket / tail light thing. I suppose they could have been exposed if I was hauling a load of gravel, but otherwise they were pretty well protected. And usually not too hard to get at.

 

[Gary Lewis]

The Bostitch hose is $27.69 shipped from Amazon, so is ~2/3 the price. And, it has the replaceable ends, which I was planning to use to allow it to be cut down to maybe 25'.

But, it is also 1/4" vs the 1/2" size of Speedaire hose. So certainly more volume with the larger hose, although as you've pointed out before, the schrader valve may be the limiting factor. And, the 1/2" ID hose has to have a significantly bigger OD. Dunno. I'm torn but leaning to the 1/4" hose.

1/4" seems a little small. It won't be the restriction the Schrader valve is, so maybe it won't be significant. Don't take this for anything more than it's worth but it just seems small to me (I have a 25' long 3/8" hose and a 12' long coiled 1/4" hose that I carry with me).

As to field serviceable, I second that (or is it "third" by now?). I had a hose spring a leak on one trip. It had a lot of cracks in the outer sheath, I really should have replaced it before, so it's my own fault. But it was nice to be able to repair it in about 2 minutes.

As for the air bags, I've assumed that I'd put their valves on the back bumper, although that means the lines have to flex with the suspension. Perhaps bringing the lines up to the tool box would be good?

When I had air bags they were mounted to both the frame and the leaf spring (at the axle), with the air line going into the top where it was attached to the frame. So no flexing of the line while the suspension cycled. Not that the line supplied couldn't handle flex, but it was nice to keep it all tucked up against the frame where it was protected rather than needing an exposed run to get it from the axle up to the truck. I'm not sure how your plan to let the bag and mount separate to keep it from limiting droop will affect that. But I guess I envisioned keeping the bag attached to the top frame mount and let the bottom spring mount fall away. If you do it that way your line will be up at the frame like mine was.

And for what it's worth, I put the valves on my truck inside the bed. They were just inside the tail gate, on the front-facing surface of the stake pocket / tail light thing. I suppose they could have been exposed if I was hauling a load of gravel, but otherwise they were pretty well protected. And usually not too hard to get at.

Thanks, Bob. I guess I'll look for a larger hose.

Oddly enough, it occurred to me that "HOPB1450" is 1/4" x 50', so I Googled Bostitch HOPB3850 and got hits. But, no one carries it. Amazon's page for it says "We're sorry. The Web address you entered is not a functioning page on our site." And Walmart says it is out of stock. But I'll just keep my eyes open for a 3/8" hose with a 200 psi rating and field-repairable fittings.

As for the air bags, I'm sure that the Daystar cradles will attach to the axle and the bags to the frame, so the air lines should attach to the body somewhere. And I'm kinda liking the idea of them being on the control panel for the compressor in the tool box. That way there won't be anyone messing with them and they shouldn't get hit.

Looks like I'll have the electric line between the compressor and the inverter to come out of the box as well as the air line to the tank. So if I bring the air bag lines up in that bundle and protect it then it should be clean and solid.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I took Jim's suggestion and put the 'scope as well as the DVM on the inverter today. The DVM shows 102 volts when there's no load on it and 122 volts with the compressor on it. But that's not too accurate as the DVM is expecting a sine wave, and as you'll see this one is a square wave.

As for the waveform, here 'tis w/o any load. And, btw, the vertical scale is 50 volts/horizontal line while the horizontal is 2 ms/vertical line.

And here's the waveform with 600 watts of pure resistive load, which was my hot air gun on low.

Here it is with the heat gun on high - 1200 watts:

And this is with the compressor on:

That's really interesting Gary.

I'd never put mine on a scope, but I knew you had one and thought you'd find it enlightening.

We would usually only use a large hose when doing demanding jobs like sheathing or roofing where you have multiple guns firing quickly and using a splitter nearer the work. ( I'd also have my Emglo wheelbarrow compressor with Honda engine supplying the air)

As I said, I think the chuck or valve will be limiting, and in that case, no need for a larger hose.

Pieces are coming together, and progress is being made!

While I was being pushy, I think you will have a better truck and more versatile setup in the end.

[Gary Lewis]

That's really interesting Gary.

I'd never put mine on a scope, but I knew you had one and thought you'd find it enlightening.

We would usually only use a large hose when doing demanding jobs like sheathing or roofing where you have multiple guns firing quickly and using a splitter nearer the work. ( I'd also have my Emglo wheelbarrow compressor with Honda engine supplying the air)

As I said, I think the chuck or valve will be limiting, and in that case, no need for a larger hose.

Pieces are coming together, and progress is being made!

While I was being pushy, I think you will have a better truck and more versatile setup in the end.

You? Pushy? No, I really appreciate the help. And, I do think the truck is going to be stellar. Very capable, very strong, and quite useful.

I'm hoping a 3/8" hose will be big enough to do the job well, but small enough to be easily stored. But I can easily try my bigger hoses with the pressure dialed down to protect them. So, we shall see.

As for the waveform, I was a bit surprised by the voltage, but things seem to work nicely on it so I'm not worried.

While the compressor was running today I looked it over for airflow. The inlet in the plastic housing is at the nose of the motor, and there are several outlets toward the back end. So I'm thinking of creating a box on the end of the toolbox into which the compressor goes. It would have a central divider that goes up against the plastic housing, or maybe down over the plastic housing, to keep air from circulating in the box. And there would be a lid on it. Then the side of the toolbox would have an inlet and an outlet with screens. So the compressor would pull air from under the wing of the toolbox and discharge air back under the wing, but about 18" apart.

Further, in the path of the air coming in or going out there could be a little power steering cooler, through which the compressed air flows. It would probably be plumbed from the head to it via pipe for rigidity, and then hose from it out through the side of the box and then down to the tank.

Clear as mud?

[Nothing Special]

.... I'm hoping a 3/8" hose will be big enough to do the job well, but small enough to be easily stored. But I can easily try my bigger hoses with the pressure dialed down to protect them. So, we shall see....

I think for most use the 1/4" hose would be fine. The foreseeable (but hopefully not likely) use that I can see for you needing the highest possible flow rate would be if you need to reseat a tire bead. You'd pull the valve in that situation (if you thought of it, which you now will!) so the valve stem would still be the main restriction, but not as much as normal. And you'd want to minimize all other restrictions. Would a 1/4" hose be enough there? Probably, especially at 200 psi. So like I said before, don't take my statement to be worth more than it is. But 1/4" just seems small to me.

[Gary Lewis]

.... I'm hoping a 3/8" hose will be big enough to do the job well, but small enough to be easily stored. But I can easily try my bigger hoses with the pressure dialed down to protect them. So, we shall see....

I think for most use the 1/4" hose would be fine. The foreseeable (but hopefully not likely) use that I can see for you needing the highest possible flow rate would be if you need to reseat a tire bead. You'd pull the valve in that situation (if you thought of it, which you now will!) so the valve stem would still be the main restriction, but not as much as normal. And you'd want to minimize all other restrictions. Would a 1/4" hose be enough there? Probably, especially at 200 psi. So like I said before, don't take my statement to be worth more than it is. But 1/4" just seems small to me.

There's not enough price difference to worry about, and the size difference is probably not too much either. So I think I like the idea of 3/8".

And, I'll remember to pull the stem if I have to do that.

Now, just have to remember to get the Coyote automatic deflators and with the compressor mounted and the hose bought I'll be good to go! Oh wait. Maybe I need an engine, tranny, t-case, front axle, .....

[ArdWrknTrk]

There's not enough price difference to worry about, and the size difference is probably not too much either. So I think I like the idea of 3/8".

And, I'll remember to pull the stem if I have to do that.

Now, just have to remember to get the Coyote automatic deflators and with the compressor mounted and the hose bought I'll be good to go! Oh wait. Maybe I need an engine, tranny, t-case, front axle, .....

If that's the case be sure to use 3/8 couplers, otherwise you're just adding -a tiny- volume to the tank

I thought all the cool kids seated beads with a long shot of starting fluid and a thrown match?

I've done it with the rim on the ground.

I still think a Cheetah tank is safer.

I wanted to see you with onboard air AND electricity.

I should have known where this would go....