ArdWrknTrk Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 Mission Control: I like that. And, you mentioning the "unloader" answered a question. Last night I realized that there's a hose from the control panel's manifold back down to the pump in the area of the switch, and there's no wiring up to the control panel. So the unloader and pressure switch are down at the bottom of the pump near the switch. As for KISS, that's not been my style. But in this case I'll be able to go back to an even more simple state than you suggested. With the relay and outlet in a box by the inverter and no extra switch on the compressor or control panel, I'll be able to go back to "stock" by unplugging the compressor from the relay box and plugging it into the inverter. But while it works I'll have the ability to charge the air tank as I'm coming to the end of the trail. But you are right about the tank. We both came up with that size, and I now have it so, "in the fullness of time" I'll get to find out if it fits. And, you are right about hoses. I hadn't thought about my old and abused hoses not being up to 200 psi, but I'll bet they aren't. So thanks for the tip. This BOSTITCH PRO-1450 ProzHoze is rated at 300 - is that the kind you meant? This one is too long at 50' as I think 25' would easily do what I need to do and take up less room. But I do see others on that page that are rated at 300 and are 25' long. And Bostitch probably makes a shorter hose. And, the isolator below is what I'm thinking of for mounting the compressor to the tool box. The compressor currently mounts to a plate with four screws through the feet, so I'd put those between the feet and the box. Grainger has them in lots of different sizes and weight capacities, so I need to pick one that will provide adequate isolation but be stiff enough to prevent the compressor from bouncing back and forth to the side. However, I just realized that they used copper tubing to go between the pump and the tank, presumably in order to handle the heat. In fact, there's a label saying Don't Touch This, so I know it gets hot. And I remember that one Viair compressor gets so hot that you have to use their hose from the quick connect. I know we talked about using braided hose from the pump to the tank, but will it stand up to the heat? Wouldn't it be better to use pipe, which will both stand up to the heat as well as dissipate some of it? But if I do then there's no reason for the isolators. I'd probably put something to shed heat -and then- a flexible hose to the tank. Maybe a small, single 'U' radiator. What kind of pressures do transmission coolers run? Isolators, definitely given that it isn't two, small, counterbalanced, short stroke pistons working in unison. That things got to shake, or they wouldn't have rubber mounted it in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 Yes, the copper sheds heat. And in a situation where you are going to use the compressor for minutes, if not hours, on end the heat is a big problem. But in intermittent use like this I don't think that hot air in the tank is too big of a worry. However, that heat would kill many hoses if used between the pump and tank. But are there high-temp hoses that could stand up to it? A hose would make the connections more secure and allow the pump to be mounted on isolators. But I could just go with pipe and no isolators. Those joints won't mind the vibration and the pipe won't mind the heat. As for the hose to use from the quick connect, I think you are talking about Bostitch HOPB1450, as shown below. Piecing together the info from Grizzly and Amazon it is rated for 300 psi, has field-repairable ends, is ~2 times lighter than other hoses, and is very flexible. Seems to be what I'm looking for. Thanks! Shedding heat helps the moisture drop out. You don't want a bunch of condensate in your tires or air bags. There are plenty of 'snubber' lines that can take the heat. If you're looking for braided line, Teflon with an aramid wrap should fill the bill. Mind that most of these have AN fittings, and not NPT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 Shedding heat helps the moisture drop out. You don't want a bunch of condensate in your tires or air bags. There are plenty of 'snubber' lines that can take the heat. If you're looking for braided line, Teflon with an aramid wrap should fill the bill. Mind that most of these have AN fittings, and not NPT The compressor on my Bronco came with a 12" - 18" length of braided line coming right off the compressor. I think it's important to not have a rigid line connecting the compressor with anything else. There's just too much movement, not only from the compressor vibration, but from being mounted in a truck. I'd definitely look for something flexible that can handle the heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 The compressor on my Bronco came with a 12" - 18" length of braided line coming right off the compressor. I think it's important to not have a rigid line connecting the compressor with anything else. There's just too much movement, not only from the compressor vibration, but from being mounted in a truck. I'd definitely look for something flexible that can handle the heat. And heat is the issue. 200psi is going to be TWICE the heat. Hence my suggestion for a small radiator to start that run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 I'd probably put something to shed heat -and then- a flexible hose to the tank. Maybe a small, single 'U' radiator. What kind of pressures do transmission coolers run? Isolators, definitely given that it isn't two, small, counterbalanced, short stroke pistons working in unison. That things got to shake, or they wouldn't have rubber mounted it in the first place. You'se guys are faster than I am! Jim - the cooler is an interesting approach. From what little I've read the tranny cooler pressure is less than 50 psi, so that's not gonna work. But, power steering coolers appear to be rated at a much higher pressure. This post on etrailer says "I spoke with my contact at Derale and found out that power steering cooler # D13309 is rated for 250 psi." And this article in Hot Rod says "but when the system is cold, it can spike to more than 200 psi for a few moments." So, it would seem like a trip to the salvage might find a small P/S cooler that would fit in front of the fan and take the extreme heat out of the air, allowing a hose to go through the box and then down to the tank. But, the box is 17 1/14" front/back inside and the pump's outer housing is 13" 1/4" end/end. So there's only room to have 2" of space on either end. Maybe I should turn it sideways and put an aluminum "wall" around it so nothing can be pushed up against it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 You'se guys are faster than I am! Jim - the cooler is an interesting approach. From what little I've read the tranny cooler pressure is less than 50 psi, so that's not gonna work. But, power steering coolers appear to be rated at a much higher pressure. This post on etrailer says "I spoke with my contact at Derale and found out that power steering cooler # D13309 is rated for 250 psi." And this article in Hot Rod says "but when the system is cold, it can spike to more than 200 psi for a few moments." So, it would seem like a trip to the salvage might find a small P/S cooler that would fit in front of the fan and take the extreme heat out of the air, allowing a hose to go through the box and then down to the tank. But, the box is 17 1/14" front/back inside and the pump's outer housing is 13" 1/4" end/end. So there's only room to have 2" of space on either end. Maybe I should turn it sideways and put an aluminum "wall" around it so nothing can be pushed up against it. Well, I see a Derale for $27.64 on etrailer. 2 3/3" x 1 7/8" x 8 1/4 Back in the '80's Derale was the hot for superbike oil coolers... My PS "cooler" is a loop around the front crossmember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 You'se guys are faster than I am! Jim - the cooler is an interesting approach. From what little I've read the tranny cooler pressure is less than 50 psi, so that's not gonna work. But, power steering coolers appear to be rated at a much higher pressure. This post on etrailer says "I spoke with my contact at Derale and found out that power steering cooler # D13309 is rated for 250 psi." And this article in Hot Rod says "but when the system is cold, it can spike to more than 200 psi for a few moments." So, it would seem like a trip to the salvage might find a small P/S cooler that would fit in front of the fan and take the extreme heat out of the air, allowing a hose to go through the box and then down to the tank. But, the box is 17 1/14" front/back inside and the pump's outer housing is 13" 1/4" end/end. So there's only room to have 2" of space on either end. Maybe I should turn it sideways and put an aluminum "wall" around it so nothing can be pushed up against it. https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-compressor-accessories/inline-desiccant-dryerfilter-64637.html Would this help? Don’t like the idea of condensation in tires or air bags. Definitely not building it with KISS! But good that you have experienced folks on here! Made me think of my mom, she’d tell me “you’re making a mountain out of a mole hill!” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-compressor-accessories/inline-desiccant-dryerfilter-64637.html Would this help? Don’t like the idea of condensation in tires or air bags. Definitely not building it with KISS! But good that you have experienced folks on here! Made me think of my mom, she’d tell me “you’re making a mountain out of a mole hill!” My personal experience with Horrid Fate air line separators is poor, at best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 My personal experience with Horrid Fate air line separators is poor, at best. Should have stated as an example. I would probably go with a different brand. Same experience with some of the air compressor accessories. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 Well, I see a Derale for $27.64 on etrailer. 2 3/3" x 1 7/8" x 8 1/4 Back in the '80's Derale was the hot for superbike oil coolers... My PS "cooler" is a loop around the front crossmember. I put a Derale on my Honda 750 and another one on my Yammerhammer 1100. And that price hardly makes it worth going to the salvage. But, it is fairly big. On the desiccant, my experience with those is poor. That's why I've gone to a refrigerated dryer in the shop. But, if the air is cooled enough, like through an air/air cooler, the moisture will drop out when it hits the cooler air in the tank - assuming again that you aren't running the thing for hours on end. And, since the air outlet is from the top of the tank the moisture stays in. So I'm liking the idea of a P/S cooler. Just need to figure out which one. Thanks, guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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