Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

That's what I suggested, but he didn't like that.

Perhaps I'm not understanding? I thought Jim was asking about the overhang right about the red circle, and bringing the fitting through there? Or, are y'all asking about back in the recess under the "wing", where the green arrow is?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Perhaps I'm not understanding? I thought Jim was asking about the overhang right about the red circle, and bringing the fitting through there? Or, are y'all asking about back in the recess under the "wing", where the green arrow is?

I was thinking of the red circle, but can't tell the overhang on my phone...

I went by HF tonight, to get another splitting wedge, and mostly to check out the 200 psi compressor.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I was thinking of the red circle, but can't tell the overhang on my phone...

I went by HF tonight, to get another splitting wedge, and mostly to check out the 200 psi compressor.

And, your thoughts on the compressor? Did you like it? Did you compare it to the smaller one? (I didn't 'cause I didn't know I was getting the bigger one.)

The overhang where the red circle is has to be something like 1/4 or 1/2". Wouldn't provide any shielding for the opening.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

And, your thoughts on the compressor? Did you like it? Did you compare it to the smaller one? (I didn't 'cause I didn't know I was getting the bigger one.)

The overhang where the red circle is has to be something like 1/4 or 1/2". Wouldn't provide any shielding for the opening.

They were right next to each other.

I see what you mean about the control panel.

The tank seems considerably larger in diameter.

But you say it fits...

Finish quality seems good.

I didn't get to hear it run.

[Gary Lewis]

They were right next to each other.

I see what you mean about the control panel.

The tank seems considerably larger in diameter.

But you say it fits...

Finish quality seems good.

I didn't get to hear it run.

Not sure what you mean by "I see what you mean about the control panel." That it should have the switch on it? That it is nice and would be good to install inside the tool box?

Yes, the tank is larger, but in a previous post I said "Ideally I'm looking for a tank that is 8" in diameter and no more than 37" long." This one's circumference is 26.5", which tells me the diameter is 8.44". And it is a bit less than 20" long. So I'm pretty sure it'll work.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not sure what you mean by "I see what you mean about the control panel." That it should have the switch on it? That it is nice and would be good to install inside the tool box?

Yes, the tank is larger, but in a previous post I said "Ideally I'm looking for a tank that is 8" in diameter and no more than 37" long." This one's circumference is 26.5", which tells me the diameter is 8.44". And it is a bit less than 20" long. So I'm pretty sure it'll work.

That the only switch is on the unloader, there is none on the control panel.

I, personally, wouldn't have a switch in 'mission control', and just put one on that panel.

No relays. No more wires than needed.

But then, I'm a big fan of KISS.

When rockets or race bikes go bad they do so in a hurry!

My carpentry calibrated eyeball said the tank was more than 8" at the seam, and a saddle mount would only add to that.

We both came up with 8x16, me saying 26" length (to keep it under the bed and not able to rub the wheel well.

Now you have both components..

You can see how they play together and put them aside until the time comes. 👍

[ArdWrknTrk]

That the only switch is on the unloader, there is none on the control panel.

I, personally, wouldn't have a switch in 'mission control', and just put one on that panel.

No relays. No more wires than needed.

But then, I'm a big fan of KISS.

When rockets or race bikes go bad they do so in a hurry!

My carpentry calibrated eyeball said the tank was more than 8" at the seam, and a saddle mount would only add to that.

We both came up with 8x16, me saying 26" length (to keep it under the bed and not able to rub the wheel well.

Now you have both components..

You can see how they play together and put them aside until the time comes. 👍

Be mindful that 200psi is at or above the limit for many hoses.

Bostitch makes a yellow hybrid hose that is rated at 300 operating pressure, that isn't too heavy.

You might look into that.

[Gary Lewis]

That the only switch is on the unloader, there is none on the control panel.

I, personally, wouldn't have a switch in 'mission control', and just put one on that panel.

No relays. No more wires than needed.

But then, I'm a big fan of KISS.

When rockets or race bikes go bad they do so in a hurry!

My carpentry calibrated eyeball said the tank was more than 8" at the seam, and a saddle mount would only add to that.

We both came up with 8x16, me saying 26" length (to keep it under the bed and not able to rub the wheel well.

Now you have both components..

You can see how they play together and put them aside until the time comes. 👍

Mission Control: I like that.

And, you mentioning the "unloader" answered a question. Last night I realized that there's a hose from the control panel's manifold back down to the pump in the area of the switch, and there's no wiring up to the control panel. So the unloader and pressure switch are down at the bottom of the pump near the switch.

As for KISS, that's not been my style. But in this case I'll be able to go back to an even more simple state than you suggested. With the relay and outlet in a box by the inverter and no extra switch on the compressor or control panel, I'll be able to go back to "stock" by unplugging the compressor from the relay box and plugging it into the inverter. But while it works I'll have the ability to charge the air tank as I'm coming to the end of the trail.

But you are right about the tank. We both came up with that size, and I now have it so, "in the fullness of time" I'll get to find out if it fits.

And, you are right about hoses. I hadn't thought about my old and abused hoses not being up to 200 psi, but I'll bet they aren't. So thanks for the tip. This BOSTITCH PRO-1450 ProzHoze is rated at 300 - is that the kind you meant? This one is too long at 50' as I think 25' would easily do what I need to do and take up less room. But I do see others on that page that are rated at 300 and are 25' long. And Bostitch probably makes a shorter hose.

And, the isolator below is what I'm thinking of for mounting the compressor to the tool box. The compressor currently mounts to a plate with four screws through the feet, so I'd put those between the feet and the box. Grainger has them in lots of different sizes and weight capacities, so I need to pick one that will provide adequate isolation but be stiff enough to prevent the compressor from bouncing back and forth to the side.

However, I just realized that they used copper tubing to go between the pump and the tank, presumably in order to handle the heat. In fact, there's a label saying Don't Touch This, so I know it gets hot. And I remember that one Viair compressor gets so hot that you have to use their hose from the quick connect. I know we talked about using braided hose from the pump to the tank, but will it stand up to the heat? Wouldn't it be better to use pipe, which will both stand up to the heat as well as dissipate some of it? But if I do then there's no reason for the isolators.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Mission Control: I like that.

And, you mentioning the "unloader" answered a question. Last night I realized that there's a hose from the control panel's manifold back down to the pump in the area of the switch, and there's no wiring up to the control panel. So the unloader and pressure switch are down at the bottom of the pump near the switch.

As for KISS, that's not been my style. But in this case I'll be able to go back to an even more simple state than you suggested. With the relay and outlet in a box by the inverter and no extra switch on the compressor or control panel, I'll be able to go back to "stock" by unplugging the compressor from the relay box and plugging it into the inverter. But while it works I'll have the ability to charge the air tank as I'm coming to the end of the trail.

But you are right about the tank. We both came up with that size, and I now have it so, "in the fullness of time" I'll get to find out if it fits.

And, you are right about hoses. I hadn't thought about my old and abused hoses not being up to 200 psi, but I'll bet they aren't. So thanks for the tip. This BOSTITCH PRO-1450 ProzHoze is rated at 300 - is that the kind you meant? This one is too long at 50' as I think 25' would easily do what I need to do and take up less room. But I do see others on that page that are rated at 300 and are 25' long. And Bostitch probably makes a shorter hose.

And, the isolator below is what I'm thinking of for mounting the compressor to the tool box. The compressor currently mounts to a plate with four screws through the feet, so I'd put those between the feet and the box. Grainger has them in lots of different sizes and weight capacities, so I need to pick one that will provide adequate isolation but be stiff enough to prevent the compressor from bouncing back and forth to the side.

However, I just realized that they used copper tubing to go between the pump and the tank, presumably in order to handle the heat. In fact, there's a label saying Don't Touch This, so I know it gets hot. And I remember that one Viair compressor gets so hot that you have to use their hose from the quick connect. I know we talked about using braided hose from the pump to the tank, but will it stand up to the heat? Wouldn't it be better to use pipe, which will both stand up to the heat as well as dissipate some of it? But if I do then there's no reason for the isolators.

The hose I'm used to seeing at the lumber yard has solid strain reliefs and field reparable hose ends.

You could cut it in half and have two!

(I like the universal (red & yellow stripe) couplers.

You don't need to pull the collar back to lock them.

I've seen it in the Grizzly catalog too, so you could get a part number there.

Copper tubing is to shed heat before the air gets to the tank.

But it vibrates, and over time the olives work loose.

Air at 200 psi is a lot hotter than at 125

[Gary Lewis]

The hose I'm used to seeing at the lumber yard has solid strain reliefs and field reparable hose ends.

You could cut it in half and have two!

(I like the universal (red & yellow stripe) couplers.

You don't need to pull the collar back to lock them.

I've seen it in the Grizzly catalog too, so you could get a part number there.

Copper tubing is to shed heat before the air gets to the tank.

But it vibrates, and over time the olives work loose.

Air at 200 psi is a lot hotter than at 125

Yes, the copper sheds heat. And in a situation where you are going to use the compressor for minutes, if not hours, on end the heat is a big problem. But in intermittent use like this I don't think that hot air in the tank is too big of a worry.

However, that heat would kill many hoses if used between the pump and tank. But are there high-temp hoses that could stand up to it? A hose would make the connections more secure and allow the pump to be mounted on isolators.

But I could just go with pipe and no isolators. Those joints won't mind the vibration and the pipe won't mind the heat.

As for the hose to use from the quick connect, I think you are talking about Bostitch HOPB1450, as shown below. Piecing together the info from Grizzly and Amazon it is rated for 300 psi, has field-repairable ends, is ~2 times lighter than other hoses, and is very flexible. Seems to be what I'm looking for. Thanks!