Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I suppose having the inverter on its side with the outlets facing the passenger door would make sense.

I kind of envisioned it with the outlets, USB and remote on top.

But it's not my install...

Bob - The intake is a neat little filter that can be removed with a twist and cleaned. And it threads into the pump. When the time comes I’ll look into sticking it through the box wall on the right side ahead of the wheel well where it will be below the wings of the box and therefore protected.

As for air bags, having on-board air will be a real blessing. Will have to decide if I want to run separate air lines or merge them. Thoughts?

Jim - The instructions say not to point the fan intake or discharge up. So on its side would work. But I’m leaning to placing it under the seat with ducting to ensure the heat isn’t trapped under the seat and just loop. Looks like the DC cables connect on one end and the AC and USB, awa the switch and LED’s are on the other. I’d point the latter to the back to allow access to the AC outlets. And the ducting on the front would double as protection for the DC cables.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bob - The intake is a neat little filter that can be removed with a twist and cleaned. And it threads into the pump. When the time comes I’ll look into sticking it through the box wall on the right side ahead of the wheel well where it will be below the wings of the box and therefore protected.

As for air bags, having on-board air will be a real blessing. Will have to decide if I want to run separate air lines or merge them. Thoughts?

Jim - The instructions say not to point the fan intake or discharge up. So on its side would work. But I’m leaning to placing it under the seat with ducting to ensure the heat isn’t trapped under the seat and just loop. Looks like the DC cables connect on one end and the AC and USB, awa the switch and LED’s are on the other. I’d point the latter to the back to allow access to the AC outlets. And the ducting on the front would double as protection for the DC cables.

I think I'd find under the seat a pita.

I want to fold the seat and plug in.

Of course mine is facing up, but same-same.

Digging around is NOT in my playbook.

[Gary Lewis]

I think I'd find under the seat a pita.

I want to fold the seat and plug in.

Of course mine is facing up, but same-same.

Digging around is NOT in my playbook.

I can’t imagine why the instructions say not to point it up. The fan comes on at a given temp, so why not use the heat before that to cause airflow to start?

Anyway, I can’t do that as it is too long. But I could put it on its side with the outlets toward the passenger’s side. That way we could lean the seat forward and see the outlets.

[Gary Lewis]

I can’t imagine why the instructions say not to point it up. The fan comes on at a given temp, so why not use the heat before that to cause airflow to start?

Anyway, I can’t do that as it is too long. But I could put it on its side with the outlets toward the passenger’s side. That way we could lean the seat forward and see the outlets.

Bill - Thanks for the measurement. It looks like it should work on its side behind the seat.

Jim - It's here! And w/o damage. You did a good job packaging. But, I wasn't envisioning 6" right, and I don't think it would go under the seat. So, on its side appears to be the way to do it - assuming that works. I'll have to check that out when it comes time to mount it.

But tomorrow I hope to make a couple of cables and hook it to the battery, plug the compressor in, and let 'er rip! Then, once I know it'll play nicely together I'll put this stuff back until I get to that phase of the project. (Get it? Phase. AC? )

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bill - Thanks for the measurement. It looks like it should work on its side behind the seat.

Jim - It's here! And w/o damage. You did a good job packaging. But, I wasn't envisioning 6" right, and I don't think it would go under the seat. So, on its side appears to be the way to do it - assuming that works. I'll have to check that out when it comes time to mount it.

But tomorrow I hope to make a couple of cables and hook it to the battery, plug the compressor in, and let 'er rip! Then, once I know it'll play nicely together I'll put this stuff back until I get to that phase of the project. (Get it? Phase. AC? )

60 hz ac.

The inverter puts out more of a square wave than sine.

Put it on your 'scope, you'll see.

[Nothing Special]

Bob - The intake is a neat little filter that can be removed with a twist and cleaned. And it threads into the pump. When the time comes I’ll look into sticking it through the box wall on the right side ahead of the wheel well where it will be below the wings of the box and therefore protected.

Sounds good!

As for air bags, having on-board air will be a real blessing. Will have to decide if I want to run separate air lines or merge them. Thoughts?

When I had air bags on my F-150 I had them plumbed separately. My reason for having them was to let my 1/2 ton truck (relatively) safely carry a slide-in camper that really belonged in a 3/4 ton truck. So at least as important as spring rate was roll resistance. So I plumbed my air bags separately to keep air from going from one side to the other if the camper decided to lean one way or the other.

That has to reduce articulation, but with the usage that truck got (minimal off-road driving) it wasn't an issue. And actually, as we discussed at some point before, the air bags acted as limit straps and bump stops, which was really the limiting factor in my articulation anyway.

As I recall you are planning on having your airbags resting on a perch, so when the axle droops out it can fall away and keep the air bags from acting as limit straps. With that setup I don't think plumbing the bags separately will affect your articulation. It certainly won't hurt on the side that's drooping since it will just be falling away from the air bag anyway. And the side that's getting stuffed should pretty easily hit the bump stop assuming you don't have much pressure in the bags (which you won't if you're driving in a place and manner you want free articulation).

So the bottom line is I think you should plumb them independently.

[Gary Lewis]

Bob - The intake is a neat little filter that can be removed with a twist and cleaned. And it threads into the pump. When the time comes I’ll look into sticking it through the box wall on the right side ahead of the wheel well where it will be below the wings of the box and therefore protected.

Sounds good!

As for air bags, having on-board air will be a real blessing. Will have to decide if I want to run separate air lines or merge them. Thoughts?

When I had air bags on my F-150 I had them plumbed separately. My reason for having them was to let my 1/2 ton truck (relatively) safely carry a slide-in camper that really belonged in a 3/4 ton truck. So at least as important as spring rate was roll resistance. So I plumbed my air bags separately to keep air from going from one side to the other if the camper decided to lean one way or the other.

That has to reduce articulation, but with the usage that truck got (minimal off-road driving) it wasn't an issue. And actually, as we discussed at some point before, the air bags acted as limit straps and bump stops, which was really the limiting factor in my articulation anyway.

As I recall you are planning on having your airbags resting on a perch, so when the axle droops out it can fall away and keep the air bags from acting as limit straps. With that setup I don't think plumbing the bags separately will affect your articulation. It certainly won't hurt on the side that's drooping since it will just be falling away from the air bag anyway. And the side that's getting stuffed should pretty easily hit the bump stop assuming you don't have much pressure in the bags (which you won't if you're driving in a place and manner you want free articulation).

So the bottom line is I think you should plumb them independently.

Bob - I hadn't thought about the fact that I wouldn't be running any pressure on the trails, so was thinking that connecting the two sides would be the way to go as stuffing one side would cause the other to drop. But you are right, I won't have much, if any, pressure when on the trail, so there's no advantage. Might as well run them separate and be able to level if I want to. Plus, I hope to not need a sway bar and that will keep the rolling down.

As for running the air intake outside the box, this is where I'm talking about placing the air intake. I'm not sure there's enough room, but I think there will be. And, I'll have to make sure that I can get to it to clean it. The inlet is on the right rear of the pump, so I think it'll work.

But the outlet is on the left rear of the pump, so I'll have to see how that works out. I don't want to have the line coming out of the box where it can be hit, so that worries me. Perhaps I can position the pump high enough that the line comes out to a tee, with one side going up to the regulator, gauges, and outlets and the other side going down and then under the pump to come out in the opening in the pic and then down to the tank.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bob - I hadn't thought about the fact that I wouldn't be running any pressure on the trails, so was thinking that connecting the two sides would be the way to go as stuffing one side would cause the other to drop. But you are right, I won't have much, if any, pressure when on the trail, so there's no advantage. Might as well run them separate and be able to level if I want to. Plus, I hope to not need a sway bar and that will keep the rolling down.

As for running the air intake outside the box, this is where I'm talking about placing the air intake. I'm not sure there's enough room, but I think there will be. And, I'll have to make sure that I can get to it to clean it. The inlet is on the right rear of the pump, so I think it'll work.

But the outlet is on the left rear of the pump, so I'll have to see how that works out. I don't want to have the line coming out of the box where it can be hit, so that worries me. Perhaps I can position the pump high enough that the line comes out to a tee, with one side going up to the regulator, gauges, and outlets and the other side going down and then under the pump to come out in the opening in the pic and then down to the tank.

How much does the 'shelf' of the box overhang the body?

Maybe you can put the coupling sticking out underneath that lip?

Open the box, grab the hose, plug it in to the back of the box and go.

[85lebaront2]

How much does the 'shelf' of the box overhang the body?

Maybe you can put the coupling sticking out underneath that lip?

Open the box, grab the hose, plug it in to the back of the box and go.

That's what I suggested, but he didn't like that.

[Gary Lewis]

How much does the 'shelf' of the box overhang the body?

Maybe you can put the coupling sticking out underneath that lip?

Open the box, grab the hose, plug it in to the back of the box and go.

Jim - The overhang is very small, so it wouldn't protect the opening.

Back to the outlet of the compressor, I was wrong. The pic below shows the copper tubing going up inside and, where the red circle is, turns and goes into the head of the pump. Why they didn't bring the output out the side of the housing just like they did the inlet, with the filter circled in green, I don't know. But I see no reason that I can't bring it out there myself.

And then it can turn and go across at the "waist" of the housing where the yellow line is. Assuming that plan will work then there would be a tee that goes up to the control panel on one side and down through the bed to the tank on the other.