Gary Lewis Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 Sorry, I misunderstood. If the pump is to be bolted to the box I'd probably give it a long enough, grommeted, cable (SOOW, J?) that it could be plugged into the inverter. Or, as you want, a switch on the dash that closes a relay -in the cab- and gets that plugged in. Making the outlet available, if need be. But me.... I would put the switch on the pump. Less stuff to go wrong. (Occam's razor, and all that) With the tank welded to the frame I would likely cut the tube close to the weld on one side and fold it out flat (creating a tab) if it's going to work with your mounting position. Otherwise, I'd probably make a saddle mount and use a rubber covered band/hose clamp to secure it. If Occam's razor strikes I can unplug from the relay box and replug the compressor directly into the inverter. And yes, the cable from the pump to the inverter will be well grommeted. But it might be #14 SJOW as that's what's on it and I think it'll be long enough. On the tank and tubing, I like the idea of flattening the tubing to make a tab. I think the first thing to do once the compressor is out of the frame is to see if there's a chance that the part of the frame attached to the tank can be used to hold the tank. I'll measure, three times, and then cut off what obviously won't fit. Then I can flatten it where needed to bolt it to the truck. But a saddle mount hung from the bed stiffeners isn't a bad idea. Speaking of rubber, the compressor bolts to the bracket with 4 bolts. So I'll be looking for some isolators to prevent the compressor from using the tool box as a sounding board. And yes, it does show "On FedEx vehicle for delivery". (And for those who don't know, I'm getting a 3000 watt running, 6000 watt starting inverter from Jim, and it is due to be delivered today. Speaking of that, can someone measure the area behind the seat on a regular cab truck? I don't have seats in either of my trucks and it is a big pain to put them in at the moment. But I'm hoping to stand the inverter up behind the seat to provide easy access to the AC outlets for chargers, et al. Its dimensions are 11 x 9 x 6.25 in (L x W x H), so I need a bit more than 6" up at least 9". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 We just got home and as I unloaded it I discovered that it is NOT the 1.2 HP unit. Instead, it is its big brother that is rated at 1.5 HP and it puts out 4.0 CFM @ 90 PSI into a 4 gallon tank and generates 80 dba of noise. Plus, it has a max PSI of 200. I'm not sure whether to be elated or disappointed. One downside, other than the noise, is that the tubing that serves as the frame is welded to the tank as opposed to the tank having tabs and being bolted to the tubing on the smaller compressor. Yes, I can cut the tubing off pretty easily, but it isn't quite as elegant. On the other hand, there's no warranty to worry about. Gary, you could insulate the tool box with the same material [Dynamat?] used to quieten doors and cabs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 If Occam's razor strikes I can unplug from the relay box and replug the compressor directly into the inverter. And yes, the cable from the pump to the inverter will be well grommeted. But it might be #14 SJOW as that's what's on it and I think it'll be long enough. On the tank and tubing, I like the idea of flattening the tubing to make a tab. I think the first thing to do once the compressor is out of the frame is to see if there's a chance that the part of the frame attached to the tank can be used to hold the tank. I'll measure, three times, and then cut off what obviously won't fit. Then I can flatten it where needed to bolt it to the truck. But a saddle mount hung from the bed stiffeners isn't a bad idea. Speaking of rubber, the compressor bolts to the bracket with 4 bolts. So I'll be looking for some isolators to prevent the compressor from using the tool box as a sounding board. And yes, it does show "On FedEx vehicle for delivery". (And for those who don't know, I'm getting a 3000 watt running, 6000 watt starting inverter from Jim, and it is due to be delivered today. Speaking of that, can someone measure the area behind the seat on a regular cab truck? I don't have seats in either of my trucks and it is a big pain to put them in at the moment. But I'm hoping to stand the inverter up behind the seat to provide easy access to the AC outlets for chargers, et al. Its dimensions are 11 x 9 x 6.25 in (L x W x H), so I need a bit more than 6" up at least 9". Gary, I can measure the back seat to cab back in Darth as it is the same complete to the seat adjuster as a standard cab. What do you need minimum with the seat all the way back? Ask and ye shall receive, 9" up (easy reference, that's the height of my CD changer) there is exactly 6" with the seat all the way back (that's where mine stays). Crew cab back wall is a standard cab back wall and the original front and rear seats are identical in a crew cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 Gary, I can measure the back seat to cab back in Darth as it is the same complete to the seat adjuster as a standard cab. What do you need minimum with the seat all the way back? Ask and ye shall receive, 9" up (easy reference, that's the height of my CD changer) there is exactly 6" with the seat all the way back (that's where mine stays). Crew cab back wall is a standard cab back wall and the original front and rear seats are identical in a crew cab. David - Good idea! Bill - Thanks! The dimensions are (L x W x H) 11 x 9 x 6.25 in and I'd hope to lay it on its side. So I need 6 1/4" up 9". But, the regular cab has a step at the back that raises whatever is behind the seat up a couple of inches or so. Does the crew cab have that step? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 David - Good idea! Bill - Thanks! The dimensions are (L x W x H) 11 x 9 x 6.25 in and I'd hope to lay it on its side. So I need 6 1/4" up 9". But, the regular cab has a step at the back that raises whatever is behind the seat up a couple of inches or so. Does the crew cab have that step? Yes, it is exactly the same, even to the bolt locations. I measured at the top of my CD changer, there is possibly a little over 6" as the corner trim is in the way and I do not have an 8" tall dwarf to slide back behind the seat to measure for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Yes, it is exactly the same, even to the bolt locations. I measured at the top of my CD changer, there is possibly a little over 6" as the corner trim is in the way and I do not have an 8" tall dwarf to slide back behind the seat to measure for me. A thought for you, the compressor is going to be a permanent install in one side of the tool box correct? How about a small vent grille in the bottom and a large computer fan to exhaust air next to it, they are 12V and could be wired with the inverter input. Also, what about just having a bulkhead style air line connector through the toolbox wall some where so the hose can be connected without needing to open anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 A thought for you, the compressor is going to be a permanent install in one side of the tool box correct? How about a small vent grille in the bottom and a large computer fan to exhaust air next to it, they are 12V and could be wired with the inverter input. Also, what about just having a bulkhead style air line connector through the toolbox wall some where so the hose can be connected without needing to open anything. How tall to the top of your CD changer, Bill? And another option is to put the inverter flat on the floor under the seat. The instructions for it say NOT to do that, but I think they are expecting a late model vehicle with no room under the seat. However, our trucks have gobs of space, so if the exhaust was at the back edge of the seat, maybe using a little tunnel to ensure it always is, then it wouldn't be ingesting its own exhaust. Yes? As for the fan, I'll not have 12v at the compressor, but don't they make 110v muffin fans? However, that means more floor space dedicated to it. And I kinda a like having everything protected by a locking lid. Have to put the hose somewhere, so have to get in the tool box anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 How tall to the top of your CD changer, Bill? And another option is to put the inverter flat on the floor under the seat. The instructions for it say NOT to do that, but I think they are expecting a late model vehicle with no room under the seat. However, our trucks have gobs of space, so if the exhaust was at the back edge of the seat, maybe using a little tunnel to ensure it always is, then it wouldn't be ingesting its own exhaust. Yes? As for the fan, I'll not have 12v at the compressor, but don't they make 110v muffin fans? However, that means more floor space dedicated to it. And I kinda a like having everything protected by a locking lid. Have to put the hose somewhere, so have to get in the tool box anyway. Sorry forgot that critical piece of information. 9" so that was why I measured there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 .... I don't think that the compressor will overheat in the large aluminum toolbox in the 90 seconds or so it takes to pump up from 0 to 200. In fact, it won't take that long as the tank should already be close to 200 from the previous exercise. But, once I get to the end of the trail I'll pop the lid of the tool box to get the hose and get to the connections and it'll have plenty of air. Keep in mind what air pumps do is pump air. If your inlet is inside the tool box you not only need to think about cooling (which might not be an issue), but you don't want to be pulling a vacuum in the box either. I don't know how well sealed it is, so maybe it's not an issue at all, but worth considering. And, yes, my "forever" plan is to use the electric system on the OX locker, so I won't need air for that. But, if I did I don't think this will run often enough or be loud enough to cause a problem. It sat overnight at ~200 psi, so it doesn't seem to leak, and I'm pretty good at making tight joints when I re-plumb it. So it should have air 'most any time. I thought I did a pretty good job of sealing up my system too. It probably comes on about every half hour or so. For what that's worth. Oh, and another use I'd not mentioned - air bags. I do intend to remove some rear springs and add air bags & Daystar cradles to the rear to help the ride and articulation, but having on-board air will be a big help in leveling up. Definitely nice for that! I had air bags on my '95 F-150. At that time I had my '75 Jeep CJ5 (pre-Bronco). I had a small Viair compressor that was usually mounted on the F-150 that I would move to the Jeep when I was going to tow it. It was very nice being able to pump up the bags when I was at Home Depot loading up bags of QwikCrete! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Sorry forgot that critical piece of information. 9" so that was why I measured there. I suppose having the inverter on its side with the outlets facing the passenger door would make sense. I kind of envisioned it with the outlets, USB and remote on top. But it's not my install... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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