Big Blue's Transformation

[Frank Wyatt]

Yes, this thing seems to be an odd duck in the lineup. It is branded Fortress, but isn't quiet nor light, like the others.

But it went right up to 200 psi w/o struggling. In fact, it shut off a lot earlier than I expected it to. I'm wondering if it might pump very well in the middle psi range. I'll be checking that out on Saturday as tomorrow we'll spend helping at that funeral I mentioned.

Good find there Gary.

[Gary Lewis]

Good find there Gary.

Yes, I think I got lucky. That unit lists for $220 on-line.

I'm hoping that part of the tubing can be used to mount the tank. And that I can mount the control panel in the tool box above the compressor so everything is handy when you pop the lid.

But I'll have to relocate the on/off switch. For whatever reason it isn't on the control panel but the compressor itself. In fact, in the reviews on the HF site there were several comments about that being a problem. So I'll move it or some other switch to the control panel.

[grumpin]

Yes, I think I got lucky. That unit lists for $220 on-line.

I'm hoping that part of the tubing can be used to mount the tank. And that I can mount the control panel in the tool box above the compressor so everything is handy when you pop the lid.

But I'll have to relocate the on/off switch. For whatever reason it isn't on the control panel but the compressor itself. In fact, in the reviews on the HF site there were several comments about that being a problem. So I'll move it or some other switch to the control panel.

I agree, seems too good to pass up.

If it fits that’s great and more compressor than you planned on. As Jim said, you won’t be running it a lot so the noise should be tolerable.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, I think I got lucky. That unit lists for $220 on-line.

I'm hoping that part of the tubing can be used to mount the tank. And that I can mount the control panel in the tool box above the compressor so everything is handy when you pop the lid.

But I'll have to relocate the on/off switch. For whatever reason it isn't on the control panel but the compressor itself. In fact, in the reviews on the HF site there were several comments about that being a problem. So I'll move it or some other switch to the control panel.

Furnas were always the standard of industry for portables.

I know I DON'T have a spare one ATM.

Should be on the tank inlet.

Anywhere else seems out of place to me.

[1986F150Six]

Yes, I think I got lucky. That unit lists for $220 on-line.

Blessed!

 

[Gary Lewis]

Furnas were always the standard of industry for portables.

I know I DON'T have a spare one ATM.

Should be on the tank inlet.

Anywhere else seems out of place to me.

David - Yes, "blessed" is the best answer. I certainly am.

Dane - It makes less noise than Janey's little Cambell Hausfeld that she uses to clean her quilting machine. That one isn't fun to be around. I'm hoping that installing this one in the tool box will reduce the noise even further, but it isn't objectionable.

Jim - It isn't the pressure switch that's misplaced, but the on/off switch. There's a little rocker switch, the red one in the pic on the left, and it won't be accessible in the installation I have planned. So I'm thinking about placing another one where the sticker is depicting the switch (middle top in the pic on the right).

Having said that, there is a Plan B. I'd been planning to use the remote function of the inverter and put a switch on the dash above the radio to turn the inverter on with. But, the max no-load input current is only 1.2A, so I'm thinking I'll just bring the inverter on each time the key is in Acc or Run, and use a switch on the dash to turn the compressor on with. And, to simplify wiring, I'll make up a short pigtail into a box with a relay and an outlet, and plug that into the inverter and plug the compressor into the box. That way the wiring will be short and no mod's need to be made to the compressor's wiring.

Thoughts?

[Nothing Special]

.... Thoughts?

I have a switch on the air compressor on my Bronco so I can turn it on from the driver's seat. That's kind of essential in my application. When I'm towing my Bronco I don't want the air compressor cycling when I'm stopped for dinner, or for the night. Plus my "toad" brakes use electricity that I don't want drawn when the tow rig is shut down for a while. So I want to easily be able to shut off both, and popping the hood to get at the compressor isn't "easily". So I have switches for both that I can get at either from the driver's seat or from standing outside the driver's door.

Plus with my meager air flow I like to be able to turn on my compressor a little while before I plan to air up my tires. That way I can be starting with a full air tank which takes about 5 minutes off my air-up time.

Since you won't be towing Big Blue and since your air-up time will be shorter you will probably weight those factors more lightly than I do. But still, it would be nice to not have to have it on all the time but still be able to turn it on a few minutes before you plan to air up.

However, if your tool box is sealed so you need to open it up before running the compressor, then it might be better to only be able to turn it on when the tool box is open. In other words, keep the switch in the tool box.

By the way, although you seem to have settled on the bigger, better, louder compressor, there is another argument for quieter, but again it's one that you will weight lower than I do. I use air pressure to actuate my OX locker, so I need my air compressor on several minutes before I need to use my front locker. That kind of planning is too hard to do effectively, so I pretty much just leave the compressor on any time I'm 'wheeling where I might need the locker. Mine is pretty quiet (I can't hear it come on if I'm driving on the highway) so it's not too obnoxious. But it would be bad if it was very loud.

I know your current (and probably forever) plan is electric actuation for your front OX. And your rear Truetrac doesn't have any need for air pressure. So like I said, you should weight that lower than I do. But it's a thought.

As to having the inverter come on with the key, I think I'd put a separate switch on it. But I don't have any strong reason for that, so I certainly won't try to change your mind.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

David - Yes, "blessed" is the best answer. I certainly am.

Dane - It makes less noise than Janey's little Cambell Hausfeld that she uses to clean her quilting machine. That one isn't fun to be around. I'm hoping that installing this one in the tool box will reduce the noise even further, but it isn't objectionable.

Jim - It isn't the pressure switch that's misplaced, but the on/off switch. There's a little rocker switch, the red one in the pic on the left, and it won't be accessible in the installation I have planned. So I'm thinking about placing another one where the sticker is depicting the switch (middle top in the pic on the right).

Having said that, there is a Plan B. I'd been planning to use the remote function of the inverter and put a switch on the dash above the radio to turn the inverter on with. But, the max no-load input current is only 1.2A, so I'm thinking I'll just bring the inverter on each time the key is in Acc or Run, and use a switch on the dash to turn the compressor on with. And, to simplify wiring, I'll make up a short pigtail into a box with a relay and an outlet, and plug that into the inverter and plug the compressor into the box. That way the wiring will be short and no mod's need to be made to the compressor's wiring.

Thoughts?

Sorry, I misunderstood.

If the pump is to be bolted to the box I'd probably give it a long enough, grommeted, cable (SOOW, J?) that it could be plugged into the inverter.

Or, as you want, a switch on the dash that closes a relay -in the cab- and gets that plugged in.

Making the outlet available, if need be.

But me.... I would put the switch on the pump.

Less stuff to go wrong. (Occam's razor, and all that)

With the tank welded to the frame I would likely cut the tube close to the weld on one side and fold it out flat (creating a tab) if it's going to work with your mounting position.

Otherwise, I'd probably make a saddle mount and use a rubber covered band/hose clamp to secure it.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sorry, I misunderstood.

If the pump is to be bolted to the box I'd probably give it a long enough, grommeted, cable (SOOW, J?) that it could be plugged into the inverter.

Or, as you want, a switch on the dash that closes a relay -in the cab- and gets that plugged in.

Making the outlet available, if need be.

But me.... I would put the switch on the pump.

Less stuff to go wrong. (Occam's razor, and all that)

With the tank welded to the frame I would likely cut the tube close to the weld on one side and fold it out flat (creating a tab) if it's going to work with your mounting position.

Otherwise, I'd probably make a saddle mount and use a rubber covered band/hose clamp to secure it.

"Out For Delivery" is always a good thing to see! 😉

[Gary Lewis]

.... Thoughts?

I have a switch on the air compressor on my Bronco so I can turn it on from the driver's seat. That's kind of essential in my application. When I'm towing my Bronco I don't want the air compressor cycling when I'm stopped for dinner, or for the night. Plus my "toad" brakes use electricity that I don't want drawn when the tow rig is shut down for a while. So I want to easily be able to shut off both, and popping the hood to get at the compressor isn't "easily". So I have switches for both that I can get at either from the driver's seat or from standing outside the driver's door.

Plus with my meager air flow I like to be able to turn on my compressor a little while before I plan to air up my tires. That way I can be starting with a full air tank which takes about 5 minutes off my air-up time.

Since you won't be towing Big Blue and since your air-up time will be shorter you will probably weight those factors more lightly than I do. But still, it would be nice to not have to have it on all the time but still be able to turn it on a few minutes before you plan to air up.

However, if your tool box is sealed so you need to open it up before running the compressor, then it might be better to only be able to turn it on when the tool box is open. In other words, keep the switch in the tool box.

By the way, although you seem to have settled on the bigger, better, louder compressor, there is another argument for quieter, but again it's one that you will weight lower than I do. I use air pressure to actuate my OX locker, so I need my air compressor on several minutes before I need to use my front locker. That kind of planning is too hard to do effectively, so I pretty much just leave the compressor on any time I'm 'wheeling where I might need the locker. Mine is pretty quiet (I can't hear it come on if I'm driving on the highway) so it's not too obnoxious. But it would be bad if it was very loud.

I know your current (and probably forever) plan is electric actuation for your front OX. And your rear Truetrac doesn't have any need for air pressure. So like I said, you should weight that lower than I do. But it's a thought.

As to having the inverter come on with the key, I think I'd put a separate switch on it. But I don't have any strong reason for that, so I certainly won't try to change your mind.

Bob - Thanks. Good thoughts.

I agree that it would be good to turn the compressor on before hitting the end of the trail so the airing-up process starts with 200 psi in the tank. But I don't think that the compressor will overheat in the large aluminum toolbox in the 90 seconds or so it takes to pump up from 0 to 200. In fact, it won't take that long as the tank should already be close to 200 from the previous exercise. But, once I get to the end of the trail I'll pop the lid of the tool box to get the hose and get to the connections and it'll have plenty of air.

And, yes, my "forever" plan is to use the electric system on the OX locker, so I won't need air for that. But, if I did I don't think this will run often enough or be loud enough to cause a problem. It sat overnight at ~200 psi, so it doesn't seem to leak, and I'm pretty good at making tight joints when I re-plumb it. So it should have air 'most any time.

Oh, and another use I'd not mentioned - air bags. I do intend to remove some rear springs and add air bags & Daystar cradles to the rear to help the ride and articulation, but having on-board air will be a big help in leveling up.