Gary Lewis Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 OK, I was figuring something like this, but wasn't sure. What about a pin like this? No need to completely block the other extremity, just fold the security between the backrest and the seat, so it will stay in place and the pin won't fall with vibrations. Thanks, Jeff. But I'm not sure I can get to the other side to put the retainer on. It would probably be easier to put a wing-bolt in that was just long enough to make a turn or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 Thanks, Jeff. But I'm not sure I can get to the other side to put the retainer on. It would probably be easier to put a wing-bolt in that was just long enough to make a turn or two. Just to document it in here as well as WHYDTYTT, today I laminated the layout for the passenger's side PDB and glued it in the lid, and laminated the layout in the stock fuse box and glued it to the outside of the cover. But it wasn't quite as easy as that makes it sound. The PDB lid has ridges on the inside of it that are apparently to ensure you get the relays and fuses all the way down. But those ridges are at different heights and make laying that illustration in there very difficult. So I milled the ridges so they are all the same height and then glued the illustration to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 Just to document it in here as well as WHYDTYTT, today I laminated the layout for the passenger's side PDB and glued it in the lid, and laminated the layout in the stock fuse box and glued it to the outside of the cover. But it wasn't quite as easy as that makes it sound. The PDB lid has ridges on the inside of it that are apparently to ensure you get the relays and fuses all the way down. But those ridges are at different heights and make laying that illustration in there very difficult. So I milled the ridges so they are all the same height and then glued the illustration to them. Very nice! That'll be good for the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 5 Author Share Posted February 5 Very nice! That'll be good for the future. Thanks, Dane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Thanks, Dane. Just realized I didn't have the wiring diagram for the Code Alarm security system in the folder. It is now and is also in the first post of this thread - which may be the world's longest post. But at least I know where to find the documents. (I was a little worried that my secret security trick would be exposed with the security system documented, but I don't think it is very obvious. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Sachse Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 Well, Scott, it turned out to be a big deal. The fuel tank filler neck that was on Big Blue says "FNF-027" on the side. And if you look that up it is for the later model tank/truck, as shown here on Amazon. So, I already have one of the two filler necks that I need. So I called the salvage and explained that to them so they are only looking for the rear filler neck. But, I learned that they always cut the hoses, so I will have to replace them. Which brings me to why BB was horribly slow to fill. In the pic below you see the filler neck that was on BB laying on the Bricknose tank on top, and the correct Bullnose filler neck laying on Big Blue's side tank on the bottom. Notice the size of the hoses protruding from the necks, with the Bricknose neck having a much bigger hose as that's where the gas goes and the air comes up around it. But the Bullnose hose is smaller and corrugated, and it is what the air goes through on a Bullnose. Then if you look at the inlet on the tanks you'll see the problem. The Bullnose tank has a fitting into which the smaller vent hose is supposed to go. But that fitting is too big for the Bricknose hose to fit over, and too small for it to go into. I'm not sure how they had it in there, but however they had it there was some interference with fuel coming in and the air coming out, and that must be what caused it to be terribly slow to fill. Hello, I just wanted to share that I’ve read in other threads that it’s possible the filler hose for the brick nose can get by the vent tube retention sleeve in the bullnose tank HOWEVER it can be too long and actually go too deep into the tank and THAT is what causes the brick nose filler neck and hose mated to a bullnose tank to fill slowly and cut off the pump so much because the end of the hose isn’t at the top of the tank. My understanding is if you shorten it the problem is solved. Note in that picture how much longer the brick nose filler hose is vs the bullnose vent tube. The end of that vent tube when installed in the tank is likely where the end of the filler hose should be on the brick nose filler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 6 Author Share Posted March 6 Hello, I just wanted to share that I’ve read in other threads that it’s possible the filler hose for the brick nose can get by the vent tube retention sleeve in the bullnose tank HOWEVER it can be too long and actually go too deep into the tank and THAT is what causes the brick nose filler neck and hose mated to a bullnose tank to fill slowly and cut off the pump so much because the end of the hose isn’t at the top of the tank. My understanding is if you shorten it the problem is solved. Note in that picture how much longer the brick nose filler hose is vs the bullnose vent tube. The end of that vent tube when installed in the tank is likely where the end of the filler hose should be on the brick nose filler. Good observation! I'll bet that's a major part of the problem. But I don't have that problem any more since I now have a matched set. I can fill the truck up with ease - which I have to do frequently - it'll pass anything but a gas station. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Sachse Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 Good observation! I'll bet that's a major part of the problem. But I don't have that problem any more since I now have a matched set. I can fill the truck up with ease - which I have to do frequently - it'll pass anything but a gas station. Good deal! I’m in the middle of this right now with my truck. My mechanic misplaced the vent tube for one of my two tanks and I couldn’t find a replacement so I researched using the newer brick nose filler necks and hoses that are allegedly superior in design and more robust against the pumps kicking off issue. He’s successfully got the brick nose filler system mated to a bullnose tank on my front tank, but he initially had the pump kickoff issue. I think he shortened that filler hose to fix it and now it works perfectly. I think he said he’s going to have to do the same for the rear tank. Once it’s all working, I’ll document everything done and create a how to post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 Hello, I just wanted to share that I’ve read in other threads that it’s possible the filler hose for the brick nose can get by the vent tube retention sleeve in the bullnose tank HOWEVER it can be too long and actually go too deep into the tank and THAT is what causes the brick nose filler neck and hose mated to a bullnose tank to fill slowly and cut off the pump so much because the end of the hose isn’t at the top of the tank. My understanding is if you shorten it the problem is solved. Note in that picture how much longer the brick nose filler hose is vs the bullnose vent tube. The end of that vent tube when installed in the tank is likely where the end of the filler hose should be on the brick nose filler. Bullnose tank has a 'collar' for the vent tube. Cut it out of the way and let the brick fill hose enter the tank. I have no problems this way for WELL over a decade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Sachse Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 Bullnose tank has a 'collar' for the vent tube. Cut it out of the way and let the brick fill hose enter the tank. I have no problems this way for WELL over a decade. Good to know! Thanks. My new 86 tanks were already installed when my mechanic realized he had misplaced one of my 86 vent tubes so he couldn’t remove those collars without dropping both tanks again so I think he just cut off the 87 filler hose to make it work but I’ll verify and report back. Perhaps either modification results in an acceptable solution. I was initially concerned that with the hose being shorter and possibly not deep into the tank that it would allow the tank to over fill before the fuel level was at the exit of the filler hose and created enough back pressure to shut off the pump before the fuel got up into the filler neck. But then I realized with the original system, the filler hose didn’t go into the tank at all and it still kicked off the pump just fine. Too fine actually if the vent tubes were crushed, kinked, or out of position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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